Water heater tank ruptured

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an RV or an interest in RVing!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

j.cowling

Active member
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Posts
25
Just found out why my water heater was leaking. I just bought the camper and have had a few issues. This bring the water tank blew up lol. I pulled it out. Anyone have a water heater for sale?  I?m not sure how to get the tank separated from the panel. The two metal rings are gripped tight. 
GC6AA-10E

What causes the tank to split?  I?m not sure how to add pics on here reduced in size. I can email or text someone pics though.  Thanks in advance
 
Usually it's caused by improperly winterizing the system. Are you in a cold area?
Sometimes, if the split isn't too bad, you can get it welded.
 
I?m in Arkansas. It?s oretty warm here.  I am not sure if it was winterized.  It?s pretty bad.  About 10? across the top
 
My first camper had a atwood with an aluminum tank, it had not been winterized and was left full of water, which froze and burst the tank . Had about a 10 inch crack.
Since the insulation had seen better days, I opted to replace the whole water heater unit with the same model purchased new from ebay.
 
You could try Ebay, or above in our Resources is a link to many suppliers and salvage parts (RV Junk Yards)
http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php?action=Parts
 
Water begins expanding at 38 degrees, so it doesn't have to go way below freezing to split a sealed tank or water line.

There are at least 3 videos on YouTube that show how to replace the tank on an Atwood water heater. Here's one of them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRfkuivFpVE
 
When mY Atwood started leaking (Dozens of pin holes) i Ordered a new tank
It came with
A new Relay for the electric element, and a new element (which I repalced with a smaller wattage oen actually 1500 watt 240 volt or 375 watts at 120 volt) new insulation and all the mounting hardware.

So the only thing not replaced was the visible hardware outside and the plumbing.
 
Google your brand and model.  Find the best price and buy one.  A complet assembly is not that expensive.
To remove the WH, disconnect the water lines, the electeic, the gas line.  Remove the outside clamp ring and the wH will slide out.  You might have to work around the gas line and disconnect the control board from the igniter.  Takes maybe two hours complete.
 
I pulled it out. Going to fight those rings on there and replace just the tank. The rest should be good
 
j.cowling said:
I pulled it out. Going to fight those rings on there and replace just the tank. The rest should be good

That IMHO is penny wise, pound foolish.  For 350 dollars you can get a complete brand new everything assembly.
 
$350 for the ones that are just propane. Mine is electric or propane. More like $500-$600. If you see one for $350....tell me. Illbuy it lol.  Mine is a GC6AA-10E
 
j.cowling said:
$350 for the ones that are just propane. Mine is electric or propane. More like $500-$600. If you see one for $350....tell me. Illbuy it lol.  Mine is a GC6AA-10E

Two years ago I bought a Suburban sw10 gallon dual fuel, auto ignition for right at 350 dollars delivered to my front door.  Search online there are deals out there.  Best converters.com  at the time had the best prices.
OK I stand corrected.  Just loked at Best Converters web site.  Suburban sw10 is now $425.  Still a better option than fighting the rest of the stuff just to save a few dollars.
That 1 is $414.
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
133,371
Posts
1,409,230
Members
138,923
Latest member
Cmfr322
Back
Top Bottom