Water not getting hot or warm

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Subrban water heater and the sw6 de
The model numbers mean, SW is for Suburban Water heater, the 6 means it is a 6 gallon model, the D means that it is direct spark ignition, and the E means that it also has factory installed electric heater. I would expect that you have the switch assembly like this one?
images

If your water heater has the service switch installed it should be to the lower left in this video.. The Suburban service manual is also available.
 
first i would like to thank everyone for their advice, i think i have found the problem, first the breaker hadn't trip, i then went out and open up and look at the hot water heater and look around and i seen it the switch on the heater was in the off position. we are going to the beach next week and i will find out if that has fixed my problem completely thanks again
 
The model numbers mean, SW is for Suburban Water heater, the 6 means it is a 6 gallon model, the D means that it is direct spark ignition, and the E means that it also has factory installed electric heater. I would expect that you have the switch assembly like this one?
images

If your water heater has the service switch installed it should be to the lower left in this video.. The Suburban service manual is also available.
actually indoor switch does not look like that, it has a switch for the heater and a switch for the water pump
 
Make sure, before you turn on your water heater, that your external water line is connected or your onboard water tank has water, and that water is freely flowing from the hot water side of your faucets when you turn them on. Failure to do this simple thing will fry your heating element in a few seconds if it's heating up, dry. Then, you will not get hot water. Changing out a heating element and anode rod is easy, but takes a little time.
 
Make sure, before you turn on your water heater, that your external water line is connected or your onboard water tank has water, and that water is freely flowing from the hot water side of your faucets when you turn them on. Failure to do this simple thing will fry your heating element in a few seconds if it's heating up, dry. Then, you will not get hot water. Changing out a heating element and anode rod is easy, but takes a little time.
There is one step which has to be done before doing any of this, make sure the bypass valve/valves are positioned correctly. If they are not in the correct position, you will still get water out if your faucets except the tank will be empty and that is when the element will burn up. The way to verify that the tank has water, once the entire system is Pressurized , go outside, open the access door then operate the temp/pressure relief valve located at the upper right hand corner.
 
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actually indoor switch does not look like that, it has a switch for the heater and a switch for the water pump
Yours must have been installed by the RV builder if it has both on one assembly. Can you post a picture of it? If you have only 1 switch, how does it select between electric and propane, or might it be propane only?
 

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