WD Hitch recommendations PLEASE

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Steven L

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Looking to get some opinions here (as in real world experienced opinions) on the good, the bad & the ugly of the various manufacturers and models of weight distributing hitches.

I did a post title search here for "Weight Distributing Hitch" and see that most past discussions on them are centered on either "How do they function?" to "How do I adjust them". The few discussing the ins and outs of reliability, build quality and practical functionality seemed to be rather dated to apply to current models.

So let me have it, please. I have narrowed down my number of candidates with online research, but reading reviews and watching YouTube comparison videos can only get one so far.
 
I have a Reese trunnion type, with friction pad sway control, works well for my 21' rather smaller TT. Whenever I decide to upgrade trailer, I most likely will go with Equal-i-zer 4 point. IMO, the best of the mid-grade point. There are better, there are worse.
 
When we bought our 1st TT I asked the dealer for "that 4-point system" meaning the Reese Strait-Line but they misunderstood and got me the Equal-i-zer 4-point (that I had never heard of). Best mistake ever! We used that for 5 or 6 years and then upgraded to a larger TT at which time I got a larger Equal-i-zer. The bars are a bit more work to crank up on the L-brackets than a traditional chain-type hitch but I think it's worth it.
 
In your experience do you find that a "friction" type system does a good job of controlling sway SpencerPJ?
Sure, it does fine. Mind you I'm smaller at 5500 pounds and 21'. I dislike I have to remove it prior to backing it up. Occasionally high winds, I'll really snug the friction plate down. I like my trunnion wdh, some I see the bars hang really low imo, that's another thing I like about E-4.
 
...upgraded to a larger TT at which time I got a larger Equal-i-zer...
So do you know if Equal-i-zer models are rated in several load sizes Joezeppy based on trailer weight?

I guess I'm asking if a higher rated model will work correctly with a trailer that's undersized for it's rating by them?
 
Yes, all manufacturers do this. I was a bit overrated on each of mine. I used a 1,200/12,000 lb model on our 7,000 GVWR TT and then a 1,400/14,000 lb on our 10,400 GVWR TT and each worked perfectly in my mind.
 
I no longer have a travel trailer so I actually gave my Equal-i-zer 4 point WD hitch to a friend who purchased a new to him trailer.

I had a Reese WD hitch before that. It was the bars with the chains and I had to count the links of the chains to tighten or ease the tension on the bars. It also had a separate sway bar. I used it for years and thought it was a really good system. It was, no complaints.

Then traded for a heavier trailer and it actually bent the hitch head. It was then I went with the 4 point Equal-i-zer WD hitch system, and after using it a couple times I realized how much work the old Reese was.

Once the Equal-i-zer is set up, if the attached truck and trailer are jacked up high enough, it is so very, very easy to hitch everything up. With an electric tongue jack, set-up was fast, easy, and it was always the same.

As far as performance, it was great! I got the 14,000 / 1400 bars and had no regrets (and this is towing with a diesel 3500 dually long bed, crew cab.) It towed flawless. I never had an ounce of problem and with the integrated brake controller in the truck, it was so comfortable I often forgot I was towing, until I came to a turn.

The Equal-i-zer is reasonably priced. It's not the cheapest or the most expensive. But for the performance, it was worth every cent. I know there are other types "out there".... like dual cam and stuff like that. But if you want simplicity in setting up, simplicity hitching, and a safe and comfortable ride, get this one!

Also, the tow vehicle has a LOT to do with the success of your tow. Under par trucks, SUVs, or something else, no matter what you set up with, will always be problematic.
 
The 12,000 lb 4 Point Equal-i-zer on our Ram 2500 4x4 Power Wagon works fine towing our 25 footer travel trailer with a 9,995 GVWR, but on sharp turns it's beyond being super loud with crackling metal noises. As much noise as banging two frying pans really hard together. Hey, we're here!

Purchased some jackets and grease to quiet it down.
20230225_091337.jpg
 
We have the eaz-lift WDH for our trailer and it's extremely stable. We have sway bars for very windy conditions but have only used them once.
 
Yes, all manufacturers do this. I was a bit overrated on each of mine. I used a 1,200/12,000 lb model on our 7,000 GVWR TT and then a 1,400/14,000 lb on our 10,400 GVWR TT and each worked perfectly in my mind.
Thank you for this, if I could pester you with one more question?

Do you think if you had purchased the 1,400/14,000 unit from the start, would it have worked sufficiently in combination with your first, smaller trailer?

My plan is to start smaller as you did (likely around 6000#) but graduate to a 5th wheel in the future, so if I'm eventually going to need a heavier-duty WDH, why not purchase that right away if it will still function well with an undersized coach.
 
We have the eaz-lift WDH for our trailer and it's extremely stable. We have sway bars for very windy conditions but have only used them once.
May I ask the length and weight of your trailer jackiemac?

Just ballpark it if you don't have the numbers precisely.
 
WD hitches fall into three broad categories.
1) hitches, which on their own, provide little or no trailer sway control and usually are marketed with one or two friction type bars that attach between the trailer tongue and the little balls on the sides of the hitch head.
2) hitches that employ friction as their means of controlling/damping trailer sway.
3) hitches that use physical force to keep the trailer in line behind the tow vehicle

Note that friction hitches with sway control does nothing to prevent it from starting, just that they provide (hopefully) enough damping to prevent the sway from continuing.

Hitches that fall into the friction category are many, most notably the Equal‑i‑zer® hitch, (which I personally despise because of the enormous weight of the bars, the fact that you have to buy an entirely new hitch to switch weight categories as the bars do not interchange and the numerous adjustments to be checked, or adjusted for it to work properly) Also in this category are the Blue Ox Track Pro which is a bar sliding on a bracket similar to the Equalizer and several other hitches. The Andersen hitch is a friction type, with a friction cone in the hitch head, unusual and most people say it works ok on lighter/shorter trailers and not so much on longer/heavier ones (I have no personal experience, just what others that have used it said).

Hitches that use physical force vary greatly. One of the old standbys is the Reese Dual Cam, which "locks" when straight ahead, and takes a considerable amount of force for the rollers to break out of the cams and the cams are always trying to push the rollers back into the detents.

On the far end of the (force) spectrum is the Hensley design, produced by both Hensley and Propride, which use mechanical linkage to hold the trailer straight, and pivot points that help to transfer the motion to an imaginary point somewhere near the tow vehicle's rear axle. These are heavy and require a good understanding of the hitch as far as hitching technique and WD bar tensioning. You will never find anyone who had a Hensley or Pro Pride who doesn't swear that its the best towing hitch they ever had, but its also the most expensive at about $3000. If you are towing a trailer as a full timer, these hitches are probably worth the money.

In between are several hitches such as the Blue Ox Sway Pro, which use rather short chains and short bars and canted/cambered bar pivot points to apply immense amounts of pressure to one bar or the other (and the chains) as the trailer moves out of alignment with the tow vehicle, always attempting to pull the trailer back into alignment with the two vehicle.

Enough for now.

Charles
 
Thank you for this, if I could pester you with one more question?

Do you think if you had purchased the 1,400/14,000 unit from the start, would it have worked sufficiently in combination with your first, smaller trailer?

My plan is to start smaller as you did (likely around 6000#) but graduate to a 5th wheel in the future, so if I'm eventually going to need a heavier-duty WDH, why not purchase that right away if it will still function well with an undersized coach.
Do realize that if you move from a "bumper pull" trailer to a 5th wheel, you will no longer need the WD hitch as you will have installed a 5th wheel hitch in the bed of the truck.

If you plan to move from a smaller "bumper pull" to a larger one, by all means, get one that will allow upgrading of the bars (and this means don't buy an Equalizer as the bars cannot be swapped out for heavier or lighter ones, you shell out for a new hitch.)

Most WD hitches have interchangeable bars (realize that you may have worn the hitch out by then also), if you use it alot) and some like Blue Ox have their bars cleverly marked so you can tell what bars they are.

What size bars do I have? Answer: The bars are marked with a dot system on the shank end to identify the weight rating. Features & Benefits • 350lb Bar = No Dots • 550lb Bar = (1) Dot • 750lb Bar = (2) Dots • 1000lb Bar = (3) Dots (shown) • 1500lb Bar = (4) Dots • 2000lb Bar = (5) Dots
qu271208_800.jpg


Charles
 
I like our Husky Centerline TS it is a friction bar system. A little noisy but works well.
 
I can highly recommend a Curt TruTrack WDH. It works on the same principle as the Equalizer 4pt hitch. I pull a Wildwood X-Lite 28VBXL with a half ton Sierra and that trailer is locked solid in behind with very little to no movement while cruising down the highway at 65mph.
 
I meant to include a link to the hitch above...

 
I ran a Harbor Freight WD for years - towing a 26 foot pull-behind. Same design as many, less expensive, nothing ever broke (did have to grind down the chain attachment hooks 1/8" on opposing sides as they were too wide for the supplied chain - and I'm okay with saving a few hundred $$ and fixing a retail product).
 
Thank you for this, if I could pester you with one more question?

Do you think if you had purchased the 1,400/14,000 unit from the start, would it have worked sufficiently in combination with your first, smaller trailer?

My plan is to start smaller as you did (likely around 6000#) but graduate to a 5th wheel in the future, so if I'm eventually going to need a heavier-duty WDH, why not purchase that right away if it will still function well with an undersized coach.
I honestly don't know. The dealer chose the weight rating the first time so I went with their judgement. "Too high of a rating" on WD hitches has been discussed a few times here - the general consensus is that if you are "way" too high, it could damage the frame and/or be ineffective but exact numbers are not known.

And it was already noted but you will not use a WD hitch set up if you move to a 5th wheel so that will not impact your purchase. Plans change but if you only plan to have one TT, buy the closest rated hitch - or as someone else noted, choose a brand that will allow you to just buy heavier bars. IIRC, the Equal-i-zer allowed upsizing the bars from 10,000 to 12,000 on the same hitch head but not to 14,000.
 

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