Weight distribution hitch with sway control

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thenomad

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Oct 24, 2016
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Middletown, Ohio-USA
I recently purchased a Husky Centerline TS wds hitch 400-600 lb tongue weight. The issue I am having is I have to mount it inverted to get the ball close to the 1 inch above the coupler spec stated in the instructions. In the 2nd hole from the bottom of the shank I can only achieve 2 inches higher than the coupler using all 4 washers on the pin. If I use the bottom hole I believe I can get the proper ball height.

My question, to anyone who may have run into this, is it ok to drop my bottom bolt to the bottom hole to gain that inch or would that be unsafe. I mean it has a hole there for a reason. I tried to call Husky tech support but they are not available on weekends. I can't work on it tomorrow as I have to work and I was going to take the hitch head to work to get the proper 380 ftlb of torque required on the shank bolts.

Please I need help ASAP.
 

SpencerPJ

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Nov 1, 2017
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Midwest
I do not know, but a trusted source called etrailer is open on Sundays for a call
https://www.etrailer.com/customer-service.aspx
 

Gizmo100

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Sep 28, 2018
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I have that WD hitch and from what I'm reading in your post I don't see why not. As long as both bolt holes line up you should be good to go..

I would caution you NOT to torque the bolts until you have checked everything. Once they are torqued to 380 they don't come off. I made that mistake and had to cut the bolts off to readjust the hitch.

I also recommend Etrailer
 

Rene T

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Farmington NH
Gizmo100 said:
I have that WD hitch and from what I'm reading in your post I don't see why not. As long as both bolt holes line up you should be good to go..

I would caution you NOT to torque the bolts until you have checked everything. Once they are torqued to 380 they don't come off. I made that mistake and had to cut the bolts off to readjust the hitch.

I also recommend Etrailer

Why did you have to cut them off?  Did the threads gawl?  If they did, did you use any anti-seize compound? For future reference,  a torque that high should be mandatory to use a never-seize compound if ever want to take it apart again. 
 

thenomad

Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2016
Posts
19
Location
Middletown, Ohio-USA
Gizmo100 said:
I have that WD hitch and from what I'm reading in your post I don't see why not. As long as both bolt holes line up you should be good to go..

I would caution you NOT to torque the bolts until you have checked everything. Once they are torqued to 380 they don't come off. I made that mistake and had to cut the bolts off to readjust the hitch.

I also recommend Etrailer
Thank you I am gonna call them in 10 min when they take calls. doing it that way my measurements look good. rear was 3 in higher than fron unloaded and loaded it is still an inch higher with only about 1/4 inch change up front. And hooked up the camper is dead on level.
 

Gizmo100

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Sep 28, 2018
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Rene T said:
Why did you have to cut them off?  Did the threads gawl?  If they did, did you use any anti-seize compound? For future reference,  a torque that high should be mandatory to use a never-seize compound if ever want to take it apart again.

I was able to loosen the nuts but when I hit the un- torqued threads the nuts wouldn't move. I was able to get a sawzall blade squeezed between the nut and the hitch. So I cut them off and ordered the new hardware.

MY guess......... At that torque it stretches the threads on the nut and the bolt. All I know is with a 30 inch pipe wrench on the bolt and first a impact and then the torque wrench. I couldn't move that nut.
 

Rene T

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Gizmo100 said:
I was able to loosen the nuts but when I hit the un- torqued threads the nuts wouldn't move. I was able to get a sawzall blade squeezed between the nut and the hitch. So I cut them off and ordered the new hardware.

MY guess......... At that torque it stretches the threads on the nut and the bolt. All I know is with a 30 inch pipe wrench on the bolt and first a impact and then the torque wrench. I couldn't move that nut.

I would use never seize this time if I was you. What size bolts are they?
 

Gizmo100

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Rene T said:
I would use never seize this time if I was you. What size bolts are they?

3/4" Diameter x 5" long Grade 8 hex bolts.

My thoughts....I would not want these coming loose at the wrong time. So I would have to ponder using never seize. But it's a moot point because This hitch was installed on my cargo trailer about a year ago. And I suspect that if I tried to remove them now I would be cutting them off.

Now for future reference...If torquing the 3/4? nylon lock nuts to 380 ft-lbs, Would adding the never seize have any effect?
 

Rene T

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Gizmo100 said:
3/4" Diameter x 5" long Grade 8 hex bolts.

My thoughts....I would not want these coming loose at the wrong time. So I would have to ponder using never seize. But it's a moot point because This hitch was installed on my cargo trailer about a year ago. And I suspect that if I tried to remove them now I would be cutting them off.

Now for future reference...If torquing the 3/4? nylon lock nuts to 380 ft-lbs, Would adding the never seize have any effect?

I'm  not a Engineer but if I was home, I'd dig out my Machinist Handbook and I bet I could probably find that. I seem to remember when torquing fasteners on a hull valve on submarines, the torque had to be increased a little but not much.
 

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