Weird LP issue HELP PLEASE?!?!?!

[TheMasons2020]

I am new to the RV/travel trailer living lifestyle and I am at a level of frustration that I gave up well kind of but not really because I'm still researching and asking for help hehe well anyways I bought a 31 ft 1988 HRC Aluma-Lite XL/ Presidential/35th anniversary addition and I know that I am having a converter issue but more on that later my issue is that my fridge wouldn't stay on even with shore power connected but then one day it turned on and stayed on only connected to shore power no Lp, my stove works but oven don't pilot can lite and stay on but oven burner will not light no matter what, water heater has come on with shore power and LP and one day 2 separate times turned on with LP off and power unplugged, heater kicks on but LP won't kick on . So here's my big issue I know I have LP able to make it to the appliances because 1, stove works but not oven burner, water heater will run with electric and Lp fridge only on shore power but randomly turned on once with LP but when shore power turned on the fridge stopped working lp and shore power heater no Lp ever, what could cause all the appliances to work with LP but only on occasion or partially? As for now I have turned Lp off to everything but the stove just foe safety because as I stated my water heated was turned off unplugged and lp off but twice kicked on and was just heating away until I turned tanks off and waited 30 minutes before turning on. Then the fridge kicked on with LP randomly but the switched off and now won't stay on at all and my stove and oven pilot but not burner????? Could it be my converter (which I know is needing replacement) or a possible clogged that allows LP randomly to flow or all the ignitors going out and works when they want?¿? Or as I and a few others say it's just the ghosts and or fairies playing games to drive me more nuts than I already am. My husband did check volts and all that which all come back as good from what he says....
Sorry for long and probably repeated text but I just want to explain my issue with as much detail as possible thanks in advance

 

[LMHS]

In my experience using LP in both residential and recreational settings (over 40 years), I have found that 90% of my LP problems have stemmed from faulty regulators. I find that a 2 stage regulator is always the best choice. Those cheapish regulators typically sold for use with 20 and 30 lb tanks (and gas grills) do tend to stop working at the worst possible time. A two stage regulator will tend to work even during very cold weather. It sounds like your appliances are starving for propane.

Add up the BTUs of all the appliances that you will run at the same time and get one that is rated to at least that, preferably slightly higher. As old as your RV is, the propane regulator probably could stand to be switched out. Pay attention to whether the regulator is a horizontal mount or a vertical mount. The vent should always point down.

 

[Kirk]

I very much doubt that all of these problems are from a single cause but you really haven't given us much specific information to make suggestions from. You may have propane pressure problems but it also sounds like you have power problems as well. With an RV that is 35+ years old there may well have been changes made by previous owners and very possibly some of the appliances are not original. You say that the converter needs to be replaced but give no hint of the reason but it isn't working then most appliances won't work reliably without a good supply of 12V direct current power, even when you have 120V shore power supplied.

My husband did check volts and all that which all come back as good from what he says....

If that is true, where did he take the readings and what were they? Why would you replace the converter if this is the case? Did everything work properly in the RV at the time that you bought it?

 

[TXcmpr]

I'm kinda ADHD so I skimmed (sorry). Best way to troubleshoot is one thing at a time. As Kirk wrote what makes you think your converter is bad? If your lights (12V) are working then your converter is probably ok. No working converter here are the symptoms, lights start dimming and most all of your appliances will stop working because they need both 120VAC and 12VDC. This happens kinda gradually as your converter also charges your battery so as it goes down in voltage things start to stop working and then no lights and nothing works except your TV and microwave.

So, converter good then check it off. Bad, then replace it and then start troubleshooting your appliances.

Not sure about your fridge but mine as 3 modes. Automatic, Electric and LP. In automatic it will default to electric if hooked up to shore power or switch to LP when not. Electric then it will work when on shore power only. LP will work only on LP (as long as you have 12VDC available. If you can just put it in electric mode.

LP issues, I would just replace the regulator. I have had an LP issue where my pigtails went bad, and it was funky to troubleshoot. Basically the screw on knobs felt very loose and what happened is there was a part that broke and it would not go far enough into the regulator to get the gas flowing. If you replace the regulator LP suppliers usually have good US made ones.

Good luck!! Hope this helps. Guess I should add when I used to fix stuff the first question I would ask is what has changed, and go from there. For instance are you plugged in a different shore power, did you try to fix something etc.

 

[Rene T]

Welcome to the forum.
You through alot all at once and it makes it very difficult to take it all in. When you start jumping around from one appliance to another we get bored.
It would be so much better for us if you could start a new post for each appliance. Give us the make and model of it, what is going on and what you have done to troubleshoot .

 

[John From Detroit]

Ok key things I got from the root post
Converter problems.. The Refrigerator, water heater Furnace and Air conditioners in modern RV's all use 12 volt (well 13.6) Iff only for control of operations. If the battery runs down.. You get either errors or simple no operation.
Now propane.. Pilot on oven lights but main burner does not (Does the pilot go out when you try to light main burner) Furnace non-op and fridge.. Rarley works on propane.
Something is restricting propane flow... Suspect #1 is the regulator but before you check that try this.
Turn off propane at tank valve.. Turn off all Propane eaters.. Enjoy a cuppa brew (Coffee/Tea) SLOWLY open the valve if you hear a hiss... STOP.. when the hiss stopps open a bit more and if you again hear a HISS stop.. Do this till you are FULLY open (Should not take more than 2 or 3 openings to hit full open) NOTE which way is OPEN on the valve by the way.
Now try the stove top. then the oven. then the furnace (IF battery full up) and finally the fridge .

IF they all work. Problem fixed (Excess flow valve) If not. Try a new regulator..

And if that does not fix it.. And I'm actually being serious here "Seek Professional Help"
A propane service facility you may have a tank issue.

 

[Ray-IN]

The way I read your explanation of the problems; I suspect ground problems is the issue.
Instead of looking at everything wrong, take one issue at a time, solve it then move to another problem. Remember, when discussing 12VDC the positive side of the wiring is only ½ the circuit. Obtain a length of 12V 12Ga wire to run from an appliance directy to the battery bank, if the appliance works using this wire, you proved you have a ground issue.
Use a non-contact 120vac voltage tester to trace this wiring, it's faster and easier than using a VOM for determining if voltage is present.
As to the LP issues, your LP cylinders are not the problem if they contain LP. Like John said the regulator or pigtails to the trailer LP piping is likely the problem. Long ago there was a recall for the pigtails made in China.

 

[CharlesinGA]

Does it have removable propane cylinders, or does it have a permanent propane tank bolted to the frame of a motor home?

I bought a 31 ft 1988 HRC Aluma-Lite XL/ Presidential/35th anniversary addition

So is this a trailer or a motor home. Google is giving me pics of both......................

This all in the world sounds like a propane issue, low gas pressure, meaning, regulator gone bad.

As I understand it, you cannot get your stove burners to light They do, but not the oven (no electricity required), Your oven pilot is flakey and the oven won't light? (no electricity here either)

You need an accurate measurement of 12v DC voltage at the fuse panel, and at the battery. It also would not hurt to have an accurate measurement of 120v AC voltage measured at various receptacles in the RV.

Both the fridge and the water heater require 12v DC (battery or converter) to operate at all, be it propane or 120v AC electric.

Propane regulators go bad. My personal feeling is good ones are good for about 10 years, cheap regulators don't last half that long. They have rubber seals in them that deteriorate.

Charles

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I'll also say that to be able to help you, we will need to address the various problems one at a time and will need details on each, i.e. was actually happens (or doesn't happen) when you try to use each appliance. "Doesn't work" or "won't light" isn't sufficient information to do more than wild guessing. We will also need to learn the make/model of your each of the appliances that is being troublesome, so that we know the capabilities of each. It is preferable to put each major problem in a separate post (thread) so that answers aren't mixed together.

You didn't mention why you think there is a "converter issue" but a reliable supply of 12v power is critical to an RV so I'd start with that one. If your husband checked voltage and it was "good", what's the problem?

Your fridge will automatically select 120vac shore power if available and will switch away from propane unless you force it into LP-only mode.

A 35 year-old RV can have lots of problems simply due to age.