John Canfield
Site Team
Just be sure the self-driller is stainless!
What is that sealer Winne uses on the roof?
- Thread starter SCVJeff
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I have read that Harry B and John Canfield would use Dicor (?a caulk in a tube?) for roof work.
What do you think of PLAS-T-COTE SEALANT ALUMINUM for the seams of a one piece aluminum roof that is has angle aluminum riveted to the perimeter of it.
(Plastic-T-Cote is a alkyd fibered roof coating, 43128 (16-43128-4) - part number for a gallon on the rvpartscenter.com web site).
What do you think of PLAS-T-COTE SEALANT ALUMINUM for the seams of a one piece aluminum roof that is has angle aluminum riveted to the perimeter of it.
(Plastic-T-Cote is a alkyd fibered roof coating, 43128 (16-43128-4) - part number for a gallon on the rvpartscenter.com web site).
John Canfield
Site Team
Hi and welcome to rvforum! Not familiar with that sealant, but I know and trust Dicor. If you can use Etrnabond, that is also a great product.
Thanks John for reply. This is the first time resealing my roof. Does the following sounds like proper procedure:
- I have stripped and cleaned down to the aluminum.
- Applied 'GE SILICONE II' that said it was made to adhere to aluminum.
- Removed the 'GE Silicon' because it has not cured in 10 days (still mushy) and read the forum about the dissatisfaction with 'Silicon Based' products.
- Re-strip roof of the silicone.
- Clean with acetone.
- Final wipe down with TSP and rinse. (WILL TSP AID or COMPLICATE the ADHESION of the DICOR).
- (DO YOU THINK OIL LIKE RESIDUE from the SILICONE HAS BEEN REMOVED AFTER THIS CLEANING PROCESS).
- Dry several hours with direct sunlight.
- Apply 'Dicor LAP SEALANT' that comes in a caulking tube. (IS THIS PRODUCT YOU USE).
- End.
- I have stripped and cleaned down to the aluminum.
- Applied 'GE SILICONE II' that said it was made to adhere to aluminum.
- Removed the 'GE Silicon' because it has not cured in 10 days (still mushy) and read the forum about the dissatisfaction with 'Silicon Based' products.
- Re-strip roof of the silicone.
- Clean with acetone.
- Final wipe down with TSP and rinse. (WILL TSP AID or COMPLICATE the ADHESION of the DICOR).
- (DO YOU THINK OIL LIKE RESIDUE from the SILICONE HAS BEEN REMOVED AFTER THIS CLEANING PROCESS).
- Dry several hours with direct sunlight.
- Apply 'Dicor LAP SEALANT' that comes in a caulking tube. (IS THIS PRODUCT YOU USE).
- End.
I did check the website for 'Eternabond' but it seems like it would be harder to remove next time I have to redo the seams.
Is going the 'Eternabond' route a Superior method compared to the 'Dicor Caulking' way.
As far as workflow goes with the Dicor caulking, I don't mind applying caulking around each rivet.
Is going the 'Eternabond' route a Superior method compared to the 'Dicor Caulking' way.
As far as workflow goes with the Dicor caulking, I don't mind applying caulking around each rivet.
FrontrangeRVer
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wakino said:
Once Eternabond is applied, it is on there for good, and that eliminates recaulking again.
Just FYI....it won't stick to silicone, but will stick/bond to most anything else.
John Canfield
Site Team
wakino said:
The silicon complicates the situation, but your procedure sounds good to me. I recommend you call the manufacturer and run your situation by them.
Thanks for input everyone.
The Eternabond sounds like a good option because the life expectancy is 10 years min by what the manufacturer states.
Prep work down the road on the 'Tape' product sounds like a fair trade off for the longer duration life of the Eternabond.
The Eternabond sounds like a good option because the life expectancy is 10 years min by what the manufacturer states.
Prep work down the road on the 'Tape' product sounds like a fair trade off for the longer duration life of the Eternabond.
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SCVJeff
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Since we're still talking sealants, I'll ask here...
It looks like it's time to go after a few cracks that have appeared where the roof cap and gutter come together, as well as the lower seam of the siding where it meets the storage bays. It appears to be a clear Urethane.. I'll call Lichtsinn on Monday but am curious if there is anything better?
PS- Is anyone having problems with the clearcoat on the curve of the roofcap over the painted surface?
It looks like it's time to go after a few cracks that have appeared where the roof cap and gutter come together, as well as the lower seam of the siding where it meets the storage bays. It appears to be a clear Urethane.. I'll call Lichtsinn on Monday but am curious if there is anything better?
PS- Is anyone having problems with the clearcoat on the curve of the roofcap over the painted surface?
John Canfield
Site Team
Jeff - I noticed the caulk along the horizontal trim strip above my basement doors is starting to look ugly.
I can't remember what all we discussed as a replacement for the Winnie caulk - I think we have kicked around some 3M products and other urethanes, Etrnabond, etc.
There was a finish issue I believe heard about on the caps - I think it was a due to the clear coat being applied too lightly. If I remember the story correctly CDI (paint contractor) didn't have an appropriate work platform that placed the painter above the work, the caps in this case. However, I'm not certain my memory is accurate :-\
I can't remember what all we discussed as a replacement for the Winnie caulk - I think we have kicked around some 3M products and other urethanes, Etrnabond, etc.
There was a finish issue I believe heard about on the caps - I think it was a due to the clear coat being applied too lightly. If I remember the story correctly CDI (paint contractor) didn't have an appropriate work platform that placed the painter above the work, the caps in this case. However, I'm not certain my memory is accurate :-\
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SCVJeff
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Late last night I remembered me asking that question before and thought it was in this thread.. guess not.
Do you remember where you saw the cap discussion, and/ or the resolve? It's be nice for them to pick up the tab to get it fixed..
Do you remember where you saw the cap discussion, and/ or the resolve? It's be nice for them to pick up the tab to get it fixed..
John Canfield
Site Team
Jeff - can't remember where I thought I heard about the cap problem. I would take some good pictures and contact Winnebago.
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SCVJeff
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Got pix.. Do you have a number &/or contact to talk to over there? I have heard names bounced around in the past but this is a 1st for me. Thanks..
John Canfield
Site Team
Jeff - I would call owner relations (contact info in the sticky near the top) and talk to whoever you get. See what kind of response you get. Let me know what they say.
Duner
Well-known member
Ya, John you're right about this. I got my feedback at the 2008 GNR from the Vectra owner next to me who had his roof radius and top of front/rear caps repainted at CDI during the rally. He said that CDI painters in 2003/2004 were told to limit the spraying on the top corners to reduce the amount of overspray problems they were having. So we only got a light layer of clear coat.John Canfield said:
Now that my '04 has been out in the sun every day fulltiming for 2 yrs, the clear coat is flaking off at the top edge and working it's way around the radius where it will be noticeable from the street view soon.
Bill
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SCVJeff
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CDI emailed me the following morning. They had already started looking for a shop out here to do the work (on them). He had one in Ventura in mind, but I suggested one closer to me that has a 50' enclosed booth. Haven't heard back yet.
Winne also emailed me back saying the CDI would be contacting me. I also asked them a question about a small dent in the side of the cap that was all nicely painted (and now flaking). Winnie says that because the cap fit is so tight that this sometimes happens when fitting it into the vertical walls. They say it can be fixed (and didn't volunteer anything further), but obviously it would require drilling a hole to hook-in and pull it out. Now I have a hole to seal. I'll pass..
So.. Is it the consensus of the group that the cap sealer around the roof is the 5200?
Winne also emailed me back saying the CDI would be contacting me. I also asked them a question about a small dent in the side of the cap that was all nicely painted (and now flaking). Winnie says that because the cap fit is so tight that this sometimes happens when fitting it into the vertical walls. They say it can be fixed (and didn't volunteer anything further), but obviously it would require drilling a hole to hook-in and pull it out. Now I have a hole to seal. I'll pass..
So.. Is it the consensus of the group that the cap sealer around the roof is the 5200?
John Canfield
Site Team
Jeff - I'm liking the looks of 3M 4000UV:
"3M? Hybrid Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV
Resistant to weathering, sal****er, and stresses caused by joint movement. Seals between mechanically fastened joints on wood, fiberglass, metal and most plastics above and below the waterline."
"3M? Hybrid Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4000 UV
Resistant to weathering, sal****er, and stresses caused by joint movement. Seals between mechanically fastened joints on wood, fiberglass, metal and most plastics above and below the waterline."
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SCVJeff
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How does it mix with whats there? Will it bond after cleaning or do I need to start fresh 
John Canfield
Site Team
Good question. I would call 3M and ask them; I called them years ago with a question about using 5200 to seal an aluminum water tank on our boat and I was able to talk to a product specialist that sounded like a degreed professional - perhaps a chemist. Not sure, but the person was extremely knowledgeable at the very least.
Forgot to mention - I'm really glad CDI is taking care of you - they have a great reputation and it sounds like nothing has changed
Forgot to mention - I'm really glad CDI is taking care of you - they have a great reputation and it sounds like nothing has changed
JLModer2
Active member
Last week on my roof inspection I found several spots had failed again... Silicone, or the stuff Winnie uses, is NOT the answer, as I have had to replace it at minimum annually, but normally much sooner.
I have been tossing around the idea of eternabond for some time, but really not sure that is the right answer either.... So, I ran down to West Marine with the intention of going the 3M 5200 route, since I know from my boating days the stuff just worked.
Talking with the salesman there, he strongly pointed me towards the 3M 4000 UV. Seemed quite knowledgeable, and he also had experience with the product.
His logic was not only the UV, but also the ability to remove. 5200 is considered a 'permanent' application, which sounds good until you have to remove it to fix where something fails, or whatever. In my past experience with 5200, yes, it is awesome in a below the water line application, but it is almost impossible to clean up even with harsh cleaners when you need to replace a fitting, or whatever. So his logic may be well founded. He made me a personal guarantee that if the 4000 UV fails within 2 years, or even if I wasn't happy with the application of it, he would replace it with 5200. Ok, so I will try the new stuff.
After hours of scraping silicone, and reapplying the new 4000 UV Fastcure, I am so far very happy with the result. A week later there is an obvious difference between the 4000 and silicone, as you can run your finger over this when cured, and it will not pull away from the fiberglass and 'Curl'. Application was normal, and used my normal procedure of masking a tape line about a 1/2 inch over where the bead needs to be, and smoothing it with my finger (I am not a professional caulking person at all!) Downside is those of you with Full Body Paint is that it is only available in white. My hands and mishaps did clean up fairly well with some acetone afterwords.
Now only Time will tell, Hopefully I am not doing this AGAIN, as next time I don't think there is any other option but eternabond....
John
I have been tossing around the idea of eternabond for some time, but really not sure that is the right answer either.... So, I ran down to West Marine with the intention of going the 3M 5200 route, since I know from my boating days the stuff just worked.
Talking with the salesman there, he strongly pointed me towards the 3M 4000 UV. Seemed quite knowledgeable, and he also had experience with the product.
His logic was not only the UV, but also the ability to remove. 5200 is considered a 'permanent' application, which sounds good until you have to remove it to fix where something fails, or whatever. In my past experience with 5200, yes, it is awesome in a below the water line application, but it is almost impossible to clean up even with harsh cleaners when you need to replace a fitting, or whatever. So his logic may be well founded. He made me a personal guarantee that if the 4000 UV fails within 2 years, or even if I wasn't happy with the application of it, he would replace it with 5200. Ok, so I will try the new stuff.
After hours of scraping silicone, and reapplying the new 4000 UV Fastcure, I am so far very happy with the result. A week later there is an obvious difference between the 4000 and silicone, as you can run your finger over this when cured, and it will not pull away from the fiberglass and 'Curl'. Application was normal, and used my normal procedure of masking a tape line about a 1/2 inch over where the bead needs to be, and smoothing it with my finger (I am not a professional caulking person at all!) Downside is those of you with Full Body Paint is that it is only available in white. My hands and mishaps did clean up fairly well with some acetone afterwords.
Now only Time will tell, Hopefully I am not doing this AGAIN, as next time I don't think there is any other option but eternabond....
John
