When shopping for a used trailer, what are the immediate disqualifiers?

[Groo]

I can't see paying new prices for something I expect relatively light usage of. I also know there will be an inherent cost to buying used, but also, as a listener to "Lehto's Law" and inherent cost to buying new as well.
I am pretty handy (former certified mechanic and welder, not afraid of electrical or plumbing in my house. I even mess with G-code, CAD, 3-phase, high pressure hydraulics, pneumatics and CAN control systems at work), but lack enough free time to waste it pointlessly.
On the downside, I am abnormally sensitive to fiberglass resins (wet, not cured) and a few other chemicals.
I am thinking anything with a soft floor or a leaking roof is out. Do those make sense?
What else should be an immediate disqualifier?
If it had frozen pipes?
How about just old plastic pipes of certain eras?
I would tend to think frame cracking would be easy enough for me to beef up and fix stronger than OEM, but is that going to run me afoul of an inspection or the like, on the road ever?
Is galvanic corrosion of the pop-rivits a big thing in some RVs? Seems like it might be, but I am assuming the industry moved passed anything like that ages ago.

 

[Lou Schneider]

Any sign of water damage would disqualify it for me, if there are visible stains it's likely to have mold and other problems in hidden areas. Beyond that it's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it. Back in 2000 I rescued a one year old Arctic Fox trailer from an Arizona wrecking yard after it had flipped onto it's right side. Northwood makes strong trailers, although there were a couple of holes punched in the right wall's siding and you could see that the house had flexed (the corner of the bathroom door left a gouge in the ceiling) the house returned to square, the stout Northwood frame remained straight and true and the slideout worked perfectly. I had the wrecking yard weld on a new coupler to replace the one that got twisted in the accident and towed it home. After a good cleaning to get rid of the desert dust, patching the holes in the exterior wall with fiberglass cloth and resin and some minor plumbing repairs (the freshwater tank under the bed ripped free in the accident), I happily used it for the next 10 years.

 

[JudyJB]

Even though you plan to give this RV light use, it can be very cost in-effective to buy too old because you will have to put too much money into it to make it liveable. We get a lot of people on this forum who buy an older rig for a bargain price and then find out it will cost thousands to make it safe and functional.

Part of this also depends on how handy you are and if you have experience restoring trailers or motorhomes. For example, can you really "beef up" a frame yourself?? Does that include the metal trailer bed or just walls?? What about replacing a roof?? Rewiring?

 

[Isaac-1]

Keep in mind most RV appliances tend to last only 12-15 years, though there are exceptions, my water heater and roof top air conditioner are now almost 21 years old, and still going, though every year I wonder if this will be the year I have to replace them, while the refrigerator was replaced by the previous owner in 2014, so right in that 12-15 year window. Also consider any rubber parts to be suspect after about 10 years and in need or replacing due to potential dry rot, etc. this includes any suspension bushings, window / door seals, rubber hoses, etc. Plumbing for the most part will be PEX on anything built in the last 20 years, so should not be too much of a concern, though many plumbing fixtures particularly on lower end models will be plastic which is prone to cracking with age, this includes sinks, shower surrounds, faucets, etc.

 

[Moho81]

For my first trailer I went really old. In 2019 I was handed down a 2003 hybrid trailer. It was a very good friends parents trailer and they where done with it. They tried to sell it but it had a soft floor so no one wanted it. They gave it me free of charge they just wanted it gone at that point.

I probably only put $1,000 into the trailer and used it for 4 years. It was a deal and got my family of 4 into camping with a trailer instead of a tent which I was growing very tired from as it was just to much work now with 2 young kids. The catch was I was always fixing it. Before we even took it out the floor obviously had to be replaced around the bathroom area. Got that fixed then the first year the front fold out bed frame broke and had to get that fixed. Then the rear bed frame broke had to fix that. Then the awning support bar broke this went on and on and on. Every year it was something that had to be fixed before we could use it and it was always a scramble to get it done before we went camping.

Now we just purchased a 2020 trailer that I really hope I don't have to do anything major to. As I get older and as my kids get older I have less and less time and patience for things like that to happen over and over again.

So I guess my point and to answer your question is for me some of my immediate disqualifiers are:

Anything that was older than 4-5 years old.
Any sign of water damage
Heavy rust on the frame or underside
Anything that looked heavily used

After that it was just a matter of finding a layout that works for you. Happy hunting, it can be frustrating looking at 100's of used campers online and maybe a dozen in person but it's the best way to do it and when you find the one you will know that its a good deal that you can be happy with.

 

[Groo]

Even though you plan to give this RV light use, it can be very cost in-effective to buy too old because you will have to put too much money into it to make it liveable. We get a lot of people on this forum who buy an older rig for a bargain price and then find out it will cost thousands to make it safe and functional.

Part of this also depends on how handy you are and if you have experience restoring trailers or motorhomes. For example, can you really "beef up" a frame yourself?? Does that include the metal trailer bed or just walls?? What about replacing a roof?? Rewiring?

I can weld and draw up and have burned custom fish-plates and the like, for the frame beams. I am far less sure about opening up the walls to reinforce them or completely re-doing the wiring. I would have no problem rewiring panels. I would assume most roof work would involve chemicals I would want to avoid, and along with other sheet metal work, maybe a lighter touch than I have.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Are you looking for a restoration project or to go camping? I would offer that you get one that doesn't need any repair at all unless the only ones you can afford are wounded. I would much rather be in the camper than under it, no matter how familiar I am with repair.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Groo]

Are you looking for a restoration project or to go camping? I would offer that you get one that doesn't need any repair at all unless the only ones you can afford are wounded. I would much rather be in the camper than under it, no matter how familiar I am with repair.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

I am going to assume that anything I find, new or old, will have something that needs attention. I noticed a couple minor details on the class B I rented about a decade ago (I will never buy anything that unstable. IIRC, It was E450 with a 32' or 35' body. That thing was an incredible handful to drive, and I hauled tons of different stuff under my CDL at that point, including unbaffled tankers and very heavy loads) Listening to a few warranty nightmare stories, and reports of dropping quality during Covid, I don't want new. having a warranty that won't get my crap fixed would be incredibly infuriating to the point that I don't want anything covered by a warranty. I'd also like someone else to take the biggest bite out of the depreciation.

 

[Groo]

Keep in mind most RV appliances tend to last only 12-15 years, though there are exceptions, my water heater and roof top air conditioner are now almost 21 years old, and still going, though every year I wonder if this will be the year I have to replace them, while the refrigerator was replaced by the previous owner in 2014, so right in that 12-15 year window. Also consider any rubber parts to be suspect after about 10 years and in need or replacing due to potential dry rot, etc. this includes any suspension bushings, window / door seals, rubber hoses, etc. Plumbing for the most part will be PEX on anything built in the last 20 years, so should not be too much of a concern, though many plumbing fixtures particularly on lower end models will be plastic which is prone to cracking with age, this includes sinks, shower surrounds, faucets, etc.

1 reason I would like something on the smaller side is it would let me store it in a more protected area. That should drastically help roof-top ACs, and much of the rubber stuff that would otherwise be exposed to sunlight. I'm a bit shocked a fridge won't last a lifetime. I have bounced my old dorm fridge all over creation as I went to different schools and living arrangements, along with extended periods of dis-use, since the early 90s. It still works 100%, it it was also presumably not intended to be mobile. I would also assume many RV fridges would be pietler(sp?) effect cooled, and not have moving parts beyond a 12v fan or two. I've got to think if many of those things don't last, it is because the manufacturers don't want them to last. I guess that is life, but it has me wondering if a well kept classic would be the better move.

 

[Groo]

Any sign of water damage would disqualify it for me, if there are visible stains it's likely to have mold and other problems in hidden areas. Beyond that it's just a matter of how much time and effort you want to put into it. Back in 2000 I rescued a one year old Arctic Fox trailer from an Arizona wrecking yard after it had flipped onto it's right side. Northwood makes strong trailers, although there were a couple of holes punched in the right wall's siding and you could see that the house had flexed (the corner of the bathroom door left a gouge in the ceiling) the house returned to square, the stout Northwood frame remained straight and true and the slideout worked perfectly. I had the wrecking yard weld on a new coupler to replace the one that got twisted in the accident and towed it home. After a good cleaning to get rid of the desert dust, patching the holes in the exterior wall with fiberglass cloth and resin and some minor plumbing repairs (the freshwater tank under the bed ripped free in the accident), I happily used it for the next 10 years.

impressive that it didn't just turn into a scattered debris field, like so many out there have. I have seen several very drivable trucks off the side of the road towing what could only be described as a debris field. I figured it was just the nature of the beast. Glad to hear that there are more rugged options.

 

[Kirk]

Reading your qualifications, I'm not sure about giving you any advice but unless you are buying something really cheap, you should probably get it professionally inspected.

 

[MoInEd]

Trailers are generally simple things that a good handy man can put it together from scratch! I bought my trailers new but fixed all the issues (leaks, squeaky floor, etc) by myself instead of taking it back to the dealership for warranty. I have modified things a lot (plumbing, water tanks, cabinets, etc) and based on what you say you should be able to fix most (if not all) things. I personally don't have good welding equipment so stay away anything that needs frame/structure fixing. The rest are doable for me.
One thing I caution is major appliances can be expensive, even if you want to buy used (e.g. a fridge). So good pay attention if they are in good working order. The rest you are covered I think.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Peltier isn't used because it's very inefficient. Absorption isn't anything to write home about either but that can run from energy dense propane vs hard-sourced electrons.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Lou Schneider]

I'm a bit shocked a fridge won't last a lifetime. I have bounced my old dorm fridge all over creation as I went to different schools and living arrangements, along with extended periods of dis-use, since the early 90s. It still works 100%, it it was also presumably not intended to be mobile. I would also assume many RV fridges would be pietler(sp?) effect cooled, and not have moving parts beyond a 12v fan or two. I've got to think if many of those things don't last, it is because the manufacturers don't want them to last. I guess that is life, but it has me wondering if a well kept classic would be the better move.

RV refrigerators use absorption cooling, not Peltier. Peltier is too inefficient and has too low of a temperature delta - portable coolers that use it only stay about 30 degrees below ambient temperature.

Absorption cooling's problem is it works by using a heat source to boil a corrosive mixture of water and ammonia, which then cools the interior of the box as it condenses back into liquid form. The mixture eventually eats through the cooling unit . Or the refrigerator is operated off level which doesn't let the condensed coolant return to the boiler and it runs dry and overheats, precipitating out the anti-corrosion additives which solidify and then plug the cooling passages.

 

[Groo]

RV refrigerators use absorption cooling, not Peltier. Peltier is too inefficient and has too low of a temperature delta - portable coolers that use it only stay about 30 degrees below ambient temperature.

Absorption cooling's problem is it works by using a heat source to boil a corrosive mixture of water and ammonia, which then cools the interior of the box as it condenses back into liquid form. The mixture eventually eats through the cooling unit . Or the refrigerator is operated off level which doesn't let the condensed coolant return to the boiler and it runs dry and overheats, precipitating out the anti-corrosion additives which solidify and then plug the cooling passages.

Absorbsion cooling is new one for me. Sounds a bit like heat pipe functionality on a PC CPU cooler.

 

[Groo]

Trailers are generally simple things that a good handy man can put it together from scratch! I bought my trailers new but fixed all the issues (leaks, squeaky floor, etc) by myself instead of taking it back to the dealership for warranty. I have modified things a lot (plumbing, water tanks, cabinets, etc) and based on what you say you should be able to fix most (if not all) things. I personally don't have good welding equipment so stay away anything that needs frame/structure fixing. The rest are doable for me.
One thing I caution is major appliances can be expensive, even if you want to buy used (e.g. a fridge). So good pay attention if they are in good working order. The rest you are covered I think.

Trust me, I keep on having to tell myself not to just build a uni-body trailer out of giant sheets of sheet metal. My last big government project at work (firewood chute for Dad's new house) went together far too smoothly, and only cost me a couple hundred in steel and a few hours of time, designing, bending, and welding.

 

[Skookum]

Most RV's/trailers are built like junk. I'd personally pass on anything that has either been lived in full time (most just aren't built for that kind of 'abuse'), or water damage. That's a big NOPE. If they've been outside for ~10 years that would be another big nope for me. Wood framing? Nope. After spending a lot of time outside, any trailer, the caulking and sealant has shrunk and cracked most likely, window seals are starting to pop, and don't forget.... the refrigerator! Norcolds/Dometics and the like which are propane/electric are expensive to repair and replace. Replacement may mean removing a slide in order to get a new one in the unit, or removing the main entry door, or a large window. Totally honest, I'd go for something newer in general, or if you have the skills, home built!

 

[MoInEd]

Trust me, I keep on having to tell myself not to just build a uni-body trailer out of giant sheets of sheet metal. My last big government project at work (firewood chute for Dad's new house) went together far too smoothly, and only cost me a couple hundred in steel and a few hours of time, designing, bending, and welding.

I (very) briefly considered building one from scratch (I have made various things from scratch) but the cost is going to be many times more than buying a ready one. Just the cost of the parts alone is going to exceed what you can buy as a package on the market.

 

[DutchmenSport]

The first and foremost disqualifier would be if it was too heavy for my tow vehicle or too long.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Unless you have NASA-like material sources, if you ever built a camper "right" it would be very heavy not to mention crazy expensive. So what you end up with mass production is a delicate balance of cost, weight and just enough durability for most of the time. Then it's up to you to plug the holes as you go and with any luck it doesn't fall apart around you before you're done with it.

A CPU cooler is a bit different than absorption, the cooler uses phase change where absorption is steps of separation and recombination of a refrigerant and carrier.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM