Winterizing

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Nick Pasich

Active member
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
Posts
25
I have had several rigs over the years. Most of them brand new,. Now I have a 2 yr old unit that I didn't buy new so I don't know where everything is.  My concern is the hot water bypss valve.  In the event I cant find it while I am blowing out the water lines,, could I leave the anode rod in and blow the hot water side out, THEN pull the anode rod?
 
I don't know for sure, but I suspect that no matter how much air you use, there would still be a considerable amount of water left in the heater tank. The air would just bubble up through the water.

If you absolutely can't find the bypass valve, then pull the anode, drain the heater, and replace the anode.
then you will be able blow out the system. Juat realize that it will take quite a while to pressurize the water heater tank.

Joel
 
Shouldnt I be able to:

1. drain hot water tank
2. replace anode.
3. blow out both hot and cold sides.
4. remove anode.

I hope to find the hot water tank bypass valve, but in the event I cant.
 
What's the make, model, and year of your RV? Someone here may be able to help you locate the bypass valve(s).
 
Its a 2016 Dutchman Denali 335RLK. 

So, in an attempt to unscrew the anode rod,  I noticed this one has a nylon 6 sided nut. Instead of the 1 1/16 metal nut that I'm used to seeing.  So, back to the hardware store to find the right sized socket for that.  It measures at 1 inch.  I'm curious if theres an anode rod behind the nut or if its just a drain plug. Time will tell.
 
Depending on the brand of WH, You may not have a anode rod. (The Atwood's with aluminum tank WH's don't need one)

My Bypass was on the back side of the WH. To access it I had to remove a fake panel under the oven. It is 3 valves. Open the bypass valve and close the other 2.
 
Nick Pasich said:
Shouldnt I be able to:

1. drain hot water tank
2. replace anode.   (OR DRAIN PLUG)
3. blow out both hot and cold sides.
4. remove anode.

I hope to find the hot water tank bypass valve, but in the event I cant.
YES

My bypass valves are on the back side of the heater, behind a back cabinet wall in the kitchen.  Usually, the bypass valves are on or very near the back of the heater.
 
Gizmo100 said:
Depending on the brand of WH, You may not have a anode rod. (The Atwood's with aluminum tank WH's don't need one)

My Bypass was on the back side of the WH. To access it I had to remove a fake panel under the oven. It is 3 valves. Open the bypass valve and close the other 2.

It could also be set up with 2 or even 1 valve.
 
My hot water tank appears to be located under the stairs that lead up to the bedroom.  No access from there.  Looking in the basement, there is an access panel close by. I will pop that open tomorrow and see if thats where I can reach in.  In the event I cant get to the valeve, I will drain the tank and re-install the drain plug and hit the air. Hoping for the best.
 
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