Wiring

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jmccalls

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Joined
Jul 15, 2021
Posts
7
Location
wyo
I'm new to this Group. And maybe I need to post this question in a different thread. I just built a camper out of a utility trailer. I am to the wiring portion. I have NO experience with wiring. I was hoping there might be someone willing to sketch out a schematic of my project in general with A to B to C as well as a list of supplies, if I was to give them a list of all the things I want/need in my camper. I'm pretty handy once I know that information, so I'm not worried about being able to do it myself, its just knowing what to do, is my issue. I would obviously be willing to pay this person for the consultation. Thanks in advance.
 
List your electrical wants & needs here and you will surely get suggestions. And probably lots of questions about thing you never considered. Start with the base design assumptions, e.g. will it be plugged to external power (shore of genset) some or all of the time? Is there ever a need to have 120vac power when external power is not available? Does the trailer have electric brakes (which require a battery for emergency stops)?
 
IF you have NO experience then perhaps you need a friend. But we can give you the basics and some recommendations.
I will start with one of the first things.. How much.
Most RV's are either 30 amp or 50 amp
30 amp is 120 volt 3600 watts max
50 amp is 120/240, 12000 watts thermotical max (practical you won't get there)
If your Trailer is big enough you will want two 15000 BTU Air conditioners (And be generous when figuring out how much Cooling you need because it is getting hotter out there folks) that takes a 50 amp rig

With 50 amp I recommend a detachable power cord. Feeding one of two devices.. A Hughes Auto Former or a Progressive Industries HW-50c Surge Protector.. (If you have a hughes it feeds the HW-50c
That feeds either an automatic transfer switch, OR your "Main" RV panel wich by the way is a Sub Panel (means neutral and ground NOT bonded)

And sub circuits from there.. That's the 120 volt side of life Follow the Code in regard to GFCI and put extera circuits (Also GFCI) to the kitchen area Thank me later for that.

12 volt side of life is simpler but This post is long enough.
 
Thanks for the Reply. I am sorry that I may not have explained this is a very simple project. I literally am using this little trailer to pull up to a spot in the woods, back my fourwheeler out and go hunting in the mater of minutes. I don't need much. I am attaching photos to this of what I have so far with my build out of the trailer, and a sketch of what I hope the achieve with the electrical. I am open to ideas and even removing some things to make it simpler.
Thanks again
Joe
 

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"I don't need much" isn't very definitive. Presumably no shore power out in the woods, but will you have a generator? Does the trailer need interior lighting? Maybe a water pump? How about a furnace for cold weather, or maybe a water heater for washing up?

I'd start with a 12v battery, a fuse panel and wire in some led lights and probably a water pump if the trailer has a water tank. Most anything else is optional.
 
I tried to include must of the questions you pose in my sketch of what I want/need in my trailer.
 
IF you have NO experience then perhaps you need a friend. But we can give you the basics and some recommendations.
I will start with one of the first things.. How much.
Most RV's are either 30 amp or 50 amp
30 amp is 120 volt 3600 watts max
50 amp is 120/240, 12000 watts thermotical max (practical you won't get there)
If your Trailer is big enough you will want two 15000 BTU Air conditioners (And be generous when figuring out how much Cooling you need because it is getting hotter out there folks) that takes a 50 amp rig

With 50 amp I recommend a detachable power cord. Feeding one of two devices.. A Hughes Auto Former or a Progressive Industries HW-50c Surge Protector.. (If you have a hughes it feeds the HW-50c
That feeds either an automatic transfer switch, OR your "Main" RV panel wich by the way is a Sub Panel (means neutral and ground NOT bonded)

And sub circuits from there.. That's the 120 volt side of life Follow the Code in regard to GFCI and put extera circuits (Also GFCI) to the kitchen area Thank me later for that.

12 volt side of life is simpler but This post is long enough.
Thanks a bunch. This was very helpful. I will stick with the 12 Volt with a little 120V So I will need to get a converter. I do not need AC as this is only used in the fall. I am hoping to run mostly off of 2 batteries. I would like to get a generator to charge the batteries. Or charge the batteries by plugging in when I get back home. I have a propane ice house eater mounted on the wall that will be more than enough for the heat. Could you look at my photos and then my sketch of the front end V part of the trailer and see what all you would get or get. Thanks a bunch
 
If you rarely camp with 120v power available, you don't need 120v or a converter. Just hook up a portable battery charger when & if needed. Some small generators have 12v output available, but a portable "smart charger" is usually better and faster.

The big cost factor in converters or portable chargers is the amp rating. Chargers up to about 10A are inexpensive, but 20+ gets more pricey. If you don't need quick charges, 10A is fine. It will get the job done after awhile. A decent 20A charger can be had for $70-$100. Here is an example.
 
Perfection is the enemy of good enough. Per your sketch you have a fairly modest power requirement, easily met by two batteries. The elephant in the room is probably the fridge, not because it draws a lot of power but 12V cooler type fridges usually are on full time. Measuring that current draw with the unit you have or plan on using will give you an idea how long you can go between charges. Or, since it's the fall, you may not need to run it full time which ends up being in your favor. Depending on your actual draws you may be able to get away with just one battery, might be worth looking into to reduce cost, weight and complexity.

Some items I would add are some outside LED area lights, and an inexpensive battery monitor. I see you have a DVD player and a TV which is fine, but when I camp I tend to use an AM/FM radio more than the TV. Draws less power and you can listen to it while doing other things. An old car radio you get at a fleamarket or yard sale is cheap and sounds great.

I wouldn't go nuts trying to come up with a "final" wiring plan and go through any extraordinary measures for an installation right out of the chute. I like the idea of hooking stuff up with temporary runs and trying it out for a while. Maybe even a driveway campout to see what you'd like to have over what you've anticipated. Once you're confident you have the "stuff" you want, that's when you take the pains of mounting them neatly/securely and route your wiring with proper protection and terminations. Start with a functional block diagram with a bit more detail than your sketch has, identifying the devices and their interconnections, and edit that as you go for what you change. That then that becomes the draft for creating the detailed schematic you ultimately end up with for the final unit. I recommend this path not just because I'm a design engineer and do assembly diagrams and schematics for a living but because if you don't, you will never remember what you did or what you have and updating it and maintaining it going forward will be a giant PITA. Any and all documentation you do now, from framing to plumbing to electrical will only benefit you going forward. Even just photos you take with your phone showing how something was put together along with the packaging showing some part numbers for stuff you bought is great information. A three ring binder you keep all your scribbles, photos, receipts and any data/instruction sheets that come with purchased parts becomes your owner's manual, something you will always want to have.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
Depending on the length of your camping trip you can minimize the current draw of an electric fridge by putting a large block of ice in it the day you leave. Use a plastic tub filled with water and freeze it in your own freezer at home ahead of time. Put the whole container in the fridge and there will be no mess as the ice melts, empty the tub when it's melted.

The fridge may not come on for a couple of days and that will save you a lot of battery power.
 
Depending on the length of your camping trip you can minimize the current draw of an electric fridge by putting a large block of ice in it the day you leave. Use a plastic tub filled with water and freeze it in your own freezer at home ahead of time. Put the whole container in the fridge and there will be no mess as the ice melts, empty the tub when it's melted.

The fridge may not come on for a couple of days and that will save you a lot of battery power.
Gallon milk or water jugs would work good. Or a small block of dry ice would last close to 48 hours.
 
Depending on the length of your camping trip you can minimize the current draw of an electric fridge by putting a large block of ice in it the day you leave. Use a plastic tub filled with water and freeze it in your own freezer at home ahead of time. Put the whole container in the fridge and there will be no mess as the ice melts, empty the tub when it's melted.

The fridge may not come on for a couple of days and that will save you a lot of battery power.
Thank you. What I did not include in the drawing is I plan to have a small yeti on a pull out drawer under the counter. Here I will keep most of my cold foods. However, there is some stuff I have found that you do not want in the ice of a cooler because you don't want it to get wet. I do like you idea though to keep the fridge cold and coming on less.
 
Perfection is the enemy of good enough. Per your sketch you have a fairly modest power requirement, easily met by two batteries. The elephant in the room is probably the fridge, not because it draws a lot of power but 12V cooler type fridges usually are on full time. Measuring that current draw with the unit you have or plan on using will give you an idea how long you can go between charges. Or, since it's the fall, you may not need to run it full time which ends up being in your favor. Depending on your actual draws you may be able to get away with just one battery, might be worth looking into to reduce cost, weight and complexity.

Some items I would add are some outside LED area lights, and an inexpensive battery monitor. I see you have a DVD player and a TV which is fine, but when I camp I tend to use an AM/FM radio more than the TV. Draws less power and you can listen to it while doing other things. An old car radio you get at a fleamarket or yard sale is cheap and sounds great.

I wouldn't go nuts trying to come up with a "final" wiring plan and go through any extraordinary measures for an installation right out of the chute. I like the idea of hooking stuff up with temporary runs and trying it out for a while. Maybe even a driveway campout to see what you'd like to have over what you've anticipated. Once you're confident you have the "stuff" you want, that's when you take the pains of mounting them neatly/securely and route your wiring with proper protection and terminations. Start with a functional block diagram with a bit more detail than your sketch has, identifying the devices and their interconnections, and edit that as you go for what you change. That then that becomes the draft for creating the detailed schematic you ultimately end up with for the final unit. I recommend this path not just because I'm a design engineer and do assembly diagrams and schematics for a living but because if you don't, you will never remember what you did or what you have and updating it and maintaining it going forward will be a giant PITA. Any and all documentation you do now, from framing to plumbing to electrical will only benefit you going forward. Even just photos you take with your phone showing how something was put together along with the packaging showing some part numbers for stuff you bought is great information. A three ring binder you keep all your scribbles, photos, receipts and any data/instruction sheets that come with purchased parts becomes your owner's manual, something you will always want to have.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Holy smokes!!! Thanks a ton. I am just like you with drawings and keeping things straight with photos. I imagine your drawings are a bit better than mine. I agree with the radio as well. The main reason I am putting a TV in this, is because I plan to mount it to the side door. Then as the door opens it will be on the outside under an awning. When I'm not using this trailer to hunt, I can see us pulling it around to the kids soccer and sport events and would make a nice little tailgate trailer, etc.
Since you do a lot of these designs for a living, could I pay you to give me a block sketch of what I have designed with a list of needed supplies. Like I said I am willing to pay you.
Joe
 
If you rarely camp with 120v power available, you don't need 120v or a converter. Just hook up a portable battery charger when & if needed. Some small generators have 12v output available, but a portable "smart charger" is usually better and faster.

The big cost factor in converters or portable chargers is the amp rating. Chargers up to about 10A are inexpensive, but 20+ gets more pricey. If you don't need quick charges, 10A is fine. It will get the job done after awhile. A decent 20A charger can be had for $70-$100. Here is an example.
Thanks a bunch!!!
 
If you do not need 120vac.. SOLAR power can charge batteires.. I"m not good enough at solar to tell you how much or how much battery you need but others arround here are.

For Lead Acid batteries I do recommend a 120volt charger be on hand. One I have (about a hundred bucks) is made by Deltran and is a "Battery Tender" model. it does like 2-4 amps in "Float" (Tender) mode, 20 in "Bulk" (Took 24 hours to recharge my house batteries when the 9180 failed) and 70 to help kick start your car (never got that to work however)

It is a smart charger in that when the unit senses "Battery full" it drops to tender mode. It does not however retun to "Bulk" except at your command.
 
Just to be clear, I don't do a lot of *these* designs for a living, my field is electronics and communications systems. But, I have done my own vehicle and camper installations for a few decades now and am familiar with what goes into making stuff that works. Rather than tie up the forum with the minutia of documentation and wiring best practice shoot me a PM if you like and we can carry on offline.

Solar can work but it's not a slam dunk, there's a lot of moving parts to having a system that works reliably and consistently. Being a new build I'm not sure I'd take that on right away unless you know you really want it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 

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