Sunseeker 2900 with some delamination, title issue.

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DennisinMaine

Active member
Joined
Mar 30, 2018
Posts
35
Location
Brunswick, ME
Hello.
As a newbie, I expect to be asking a lot of questions, so I am glad to have found this forum.
We have been shopping for a used, smaller RV. I had been trying for a 25-28 Class C to take cross-country. I recently found a 2005 Class C Sunseeker 2900 with 52K miles. A bit bigger than our target but it has everything we were looking for and is affordable. We plan to tow a small car.
Apparently it was purchased at a Florida auction and there is some title issue that is making it difficult to title here in Maine. The dealer is confident that he can get the title issue straightened out. FWIW I would consider this dealer experienced and reputable.
I did notice some delamination on both sides, not a lot but some, so there appears to have been some leakage. I did a search and it appears the consensus is that the delamination itself is not serious so long as the leak is fixed, but if the water caused further damage such as rot, that must be addressed.
My question: What should I be looking for to make sure any water damage has been addressed? What advice can you give to avoid future leaks?
Any other red flags so far? Any thing about Sunseekers I should look out for?
Thanks gang!
Dennis
 
Don't walk, run.  Title issues can take FOREVER to correct.  If the Dealer is willing to let you take it maybe 1/2 down, 1/2 after title, and you get to take home now, I'd consider it. 
 
To clarify, the dealer will not even accept a deposit until the title is cleared up, but promised I get first crack once it is clear. He won't be making any repairs until then. He seems confident he can get it done in a week or two. We'll see.
 
You admit to being new to RV'ing so I'll try to be gentle.

One of the most common things here is someone buying a smaller RV and then upgrading over and over.
That gets expensive.  My first ever RV was (is) a 40ft DP (diesel pusher) and when I tow my trailer I'm 65ft long.  I'm alone too & retired.
I wouldn't want anything smaller either.  I know there are people out there that think they can't handle a big unit - but most could
if they wanted to and got over the fear of a bigger unit.

I'm telling you this because you said WE want to go cross-country.  Most of your time will be living in the RV vs. driving it.
The bigger the RV the more comfortable you will be in most every situation.  Storage, tanks sizes, fridge size, sink size etc will be
bigger with a bigger unit, not to mention living space.

Now on the delamination issue I would also run away even if the title issue gets cleared up.
It's usually a big job to fix it right - a very big job is not something most dealers will want to spend time and money on.
So even IF they make it somewhat better I doubt that it would be fixed fully as (depending on condition which is hard to see
without tearing into it) it can become a major issue and after you take delivery it can be a nightmare to got it resolved.

So IMO I would pass and start looking at a bigger unit.  A 30 - 32ft Class A would be loads better in most cases.
They are usually built on a stronger frame and therefore can handle more weight etc.  Many people tow a car with a Class A.

You can do what you want - just trying to save you some time and money.  What have you got to lose by at least looking at
a larger unit?  There are excellent deals to be found on low mileage older RV's in excellent condition - I would not look at a damaged unit
to save a few bucks as it's easy to get burned.  There are many stories on this forum about that.
 
You will see over and over again that any water damage can cause lots of problems long after the original leak is fixed. Therefore you should walk away at the first sign of water damage including staining. There simply are too many undamaged RVs for sale to take a chance on one with water damage. Another, better unit will be along shortly for the same money.
 
I agree with running from water damage.

Check inside in the area of the delamination.  Look for soft or spongy floors, soft spots in the walls, stains in cabinets or on the walls or any other signs of water damage.

Water damage is notoriously hard to estimate the extent of the damage.  The simple soft spot on the floor you think you can fix yourself for $100 will cover an area 4 times bigger than you expected, take 3 times longer to fix and cost 5 to 10 times as much as you expected.

When we bought our camper, there was a 3 ft x 3 ft spot in the kitchen with a soft, water damaged floor.  The seller got it fixed before the sale.  It cost him $2600 from a reputable, fair priced dealer.

Your ideal camper is out there - WITHOUT water damage.
 
What is your budget?  Patience, patience and patience are the three keys to finding the right RV without damage for the right $.
 
Red, the question of size came up quite a bit on my post in the newbies forum. There were an array of opinions. Some said 24 was fine, some said 30 was a minimum. I looked at a couple of 30-32 ft. Class A's and they didn't have a lot more room than the 29 foot Class C. It will be my wife and myself and our beloved dog.
In terms of budget, I would love to keep the purchase price under 15K. I realize I will want to make a couple upgrades or changes so I would be happy if I could get on the road for 20K. That does not include the toad.
Keymastr and grashley, I haven't found any stains etc, that indicate actual damage, but just because I haven't found it yet does not mean it's not there. I am trying my best to be patient. This search has gone on for almost a year, but intensity has picked up because we are planning to rent the house and hit the road by Labor Day.
Thanks for all your input. Keep it coming. I may not know a lot but at least I know I don't know a lot.  ;D
 
Unlike the others, I do not run from signs of water intrusion. It's rare to find a 10 year old RV that never had a leak, and most leaks are not serious if attended to quickly. It's the neglected ones that cause major harm and it usually doesn't take a lot of skill to see that.  Probably the key things to look for are soft spots in the floor, musty odors in walls, floors or ceiling, and anything that sags. Look for signs of previous water intrusion, e.g. stains, mold, or loose wall coverings and investigate around them. Probing with an ice pick or pointy knife can detect soft substrates behind carpets or wall coverings,, for example. Sagging or stained ceilings is an indication that roof leaks were NOT promptly repaired.

External delam is fairly common, especially in 10-15 year old rigs. It doesn't take a lot for the laminated skin to loosen its bond the the wall frame. In most cases it will be cosmetic, but push and probe, inside and out, and try to determine if there is structural damage inside the wall or floor.  If in doubt, walk away.
 
Thanks, Gary.  That is what I tried to say.  Look carefully to verify presence or absence of water damage.  If found, RUN!  If no water damage, continue inspection.
 
Make sure you can get a clean title, not a Rebuilt or Salvage Title.  These are issued if an insurance company has totalled the vehicle, either from an accident or other damage, and someone else has "repaired" the damage to make it roadworthy again.

There have been cases where RVs that have been flooded or damaged in hurricanes have been cleaned up and sent north to sell to the unwary.  If the RV has been underwater, just like a flooded car there will forever be ongoing problems with rust and corrosion.
 
Thanks everyone for your advice. The dealer still has not got the title straightened out  and of course we continued looking. Today we ended up buying a 27 foot Class A.
I bet it was a salvage title and with all the hurricanes last year, it was flooded. Not my problem now!
 
I looked at a couple of 30-32 ft. Class A's and they didn't have a lot more room than the 29 foot Class C.

Today we ended up buying a 27 foot Class A.

Congrats on the purchase you made.

Now I would be interested in knowing what made you go with a 27ft Class A when you said a 29ft Class C
had almost as much room as a 30-32ft Class A.

What you bought - You didn't tell us much.  :D
Was it in perfect condition?  What year and model did you get?  Are you able to tow a toad with it?
Was the price too good to pass up?  Was the floorplan just what you wanted?  etc.

Just curious.  I'm glad you got a MH and are now able to enjoy the RV life.



OK I just saw your post about the 1994 Class A you bought.
But you didn't answer any of the above questions so I leave them there, for if you come back to this post.
 
RedandSilver said:
What you bought - You didn't tell us much.  :D
Was it in perfect condition?  What year and model did you get?  Are you able to tow a toad with it?
Was the price too good to pass up?  Was the floorplan just what you wanted?  etc.

Just curious.  I'm glad you got a MH and are now able to enjoy the RV life.

OK I just saw your post about the 1994 Class A you bought.
But you didn't answer any of the above questions so I leave them there, for if you come back to this post.

The 27 foot Itasca Sunrise RQ has a great floor plan for us. The interior is in great shape and it only has 48,000 miles on it. And, as I said elsewhere, at that age I presume it will need some work but the price gives me plenty of room to repair and update. I do intend to get a toad. It has a 454 Chevy V-8; not my first choice but I am willing to go with it. The previous owner told me he towed one on one trip, but otherwise camped within Maine so really didn't need one.

Again, I was originally focused on 24-27 foot Class C's, but as the pickings were pretty slim and as I learned more, I opened up to bigger rigs and Class A's. This one just checked so many boxes for me, I really don't think I could have gotten another one this close to what I was looking for for the same money.
 
I had several requests for photos. Here are a few. Taking off for Colorado tomorrow. Vanity plate arrived a few days ago -- just in time.
 

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