Recent content by 30yrnavy

You have 225/75/16's on it now and that's what the sticker calls for. Stick with the same size. You can find them all over the place anywhere from about $90 to $160 each depending on brand. If money is no object, I'd replace them all at the same time and ride in safety and comfort. Also, if you...

If I were you I wouldn't be concerned about the bushings causing the rolling problem. I'd just put on a new set of Bilsteins and let it go at that, especially after having an alignment and the rest of the steering checked out. Keep it simple. BTW, even though there's lots of tread left on the...

Third one up from the bottom...the second spring down just below the bottom of the shock.

Automotive spring shops are located in most places. Look to see if you can find one in the phone book and have them take a look at the spring bushings and let you know if they should be replaced or not. If so, they can do it rather cheaply. They can also check the sway bar bushings. If your...

I wouldn't recommend using a high pressure washer. High pressure water could potentially cut a hole in the tank. I know it'll cut right through rubber boots!

With the cost of fuel over there I'd guess you're doing all the right kind of driving to conserve fuel. One thing I'd do is check the vacuum with a vacuum gauge. Check all the vacuum lines. You might have a vacuum leak that the computer is compensating for but at the sacrifice of fuel economy...

Our 25 ft 1997 Winnebago Warrior with the 454 engine gets a consistent 11-11 1/2 mpg when driving 60-65 on cruise control. Guess we should feel lucky!

I live in Idaho. Out west we have a couple large tire dealerships that have stores all over in Washington, Oregon, California and a few other states. Last fall I too needed a set of tires for my Class A. I could have saved a few dollars getting them off the net but decided to go with one of the...

You may want to call the manufacturer and see what they have to say about the amount of weight the roof is safely capable of holding. After all...they made it. I'd assume each manufacture builds their roof structures a bit differently...hence, different load capabilities. On the other...

I hope you didn't wipe out an alternator on either vehicle. As soon as you hooked up the negative cable to the motor home and noticed the spark you should have stopped right then and rechecked your connections. Somehow you had power on that negative cable and it had to be coming from somewhere.

I would think the companies that make and sell the battery cables already have that spread sheet ("balance" sheet?) figured out. You know the battery companies wouldn't release that kind of information that would make batteries last past the warranty period. Hmmmm...I wonder how many folks are...

All this discussion about "balanced" batteries and its importance. I'd wager that over a five year period you couldn't tell the difference in cost savings or performance of a group of RV batteries that are balanced or unbalanced. With the cost of the additional cables and the more contact points...

I agree with the above two posts. It would make it easier if you could draw a diagram showing the positive and negative terminals of the batteries and how they're connected. It would help to eliminate the guess work on those that are trying to help you.

8-10 gauge wire will work perfectly fine. The distance from under the hood of your pickup to the slide in camper will have very little effect on the voltage drop. The only load on the wire will be the charge amperage of around 14 amps. Most battery chargers don't even have wires that big. For...

Simply mount a battery isolator under your hood somewhere. They're easy to hook up and relatively inexpensive. It allows charging your auxiliary battery while the engine is running and isolates the auxiliary battery when the engine is off (this allows you to use the auxiliary battery without...