Recent content by Harry B

See if the breaker has a wire attached to you house batteries and that should answer your question as to which batteries the levelers are working from. When the engine is running, the house and ch chassis batteries are  connected. As such the house battery voltage is higher due to the...

I recently had the same error code. After 3 repair attempts Cummins diagnosed the problem to be the control board. Replacement of the board resolved my problem. I have read that it could also be caused by the connectors going to the control board having possible bad connections. Try reseating...

That sounds like a problem if there is no access. Might give the manufacturer a call to find out the best way to access that motor. I have one of those hard to access motors as well and was told to remove the slide facia to access it.

Don, if you have another slide you could swap with those motors. You can swap the motors on the problem slide as well and once done, see if your slide scews in the opposite direction. If it does scew in the opposite direction it is a bad motor. If no changes in the scew direction after swapping...

Are you seeing any error codes during the failure? I have a simular problem and get a code 6 error on motor 1. That turned out to be a cable problem between the controller and the motor. LCI support told me a bad motor which is what the error code suggested as well. Swapped motors with an other...

Just another guess, however I am thinking that it might leave the contactor hanging upside down which would reduce contact pressure. Other than what Gary mentioned, I can't think of another reason not to mount it face up.

A 15000 btu A/C will not draw more than 1800 watts running continuesly, so well within your 75% maximum. Running a generator without a load is not good. A 50% load is typically adviced. Most break-in periods for engines suggest  varying the speed from time to time and not to apply full load or...

You should be OK If there is no slideout framing structure where you wan't to put the hatch. If you have to cut the slideout frame, I wouldn't do it

Most of those shields don't seem to last in the humid south. Mine gave out just after the 5 year warranty expired. The dark spots are moldmold developing behind the shield. Only solution is to remove it. Removing it is a task in and of it self.

The four scews that are typically on the inside to secure the unit to the roof are accessible from the roof as stated previously.

You might have it plugged in the wrong outlet. I have 2 outlets in back of the fridge. One works via the inverter and powers the fridge. The other outlet does not work via the inverter and powered the ice maker of the Norcold 1200. If you only have one outlet and you have no power to it from...

I suspect he may be in Europe where everything is 220vac 50 Hertz. We have 240vac 60 Hertz in the USA. Not understanding our system system may have led him to plug into 220vac. We plug into 240vac (50 amps) but use a ground along with it to devide the 240v into 2 lines at 120v. 50 amp lines. So...

Absolutely. The pads are only a couple of dollars but the labor to replace them is extensive. The slide has to be removed to get to them on the coaches prior to 2006 or 2007. Not sure what year that was changed.

It is a slide lock or whatever it is called. It secures the slide to the RV frame when the slide is closed. That provides additional security for seatbelts use. There should be an other one under that slide. It will be from the slide that has the seatbelts mounted in it.

This design has been around for a while abroad. It was designed in England and it is standard equipment on British military equipment where battery state of charge info is required. I imagine it has been well tested before the military commuted to it.