Wagonmaster2
Well-known member
Hey John,
Think I really need some help from our Norcold experts. My Recall Box has been clattering (clicking rapidly) anytime the outside temps get into the 80's so yesterday I decided to install an additional 12V Radio Shack cooling fan to blow up through the cooling coils, but when I connected it to the same wire the shop installed the Box in the 12V fan would not run. (It do run when I connected it to my car battery.) I checked the voltage at the in/out connections on the Box and found (if I'm reading my multimeter correct) that it measured .7 mv. The meter dial is set to read DCV and the range was set to 200 mv so I'm assuming I read it right, never read any voltage that small.
Can there be more than one 12V line going to the frig control board, and the shop may have hooked into the wrong 12V wire? I can't see well enough in there
to tell what all the other wires are that are hooked to the control board but I do see 12V at the terminal where the Recall Box "out" wire goes to.
We just got back from an 8 day visit to relative with the coach and the frig worked just fine the whole time whether on 120V or LPG keeping inside temps in the 34-38 degrees set on #4.
This is getting more puzzeling as time goes on, and about run out of things to try in order to get rid of the clicking. But it does help to leave the outside vent door off whenever temps get up there , which doesn't look very nice on a large DP.
Anyone have any help, suggestions, ideas, etc., other than calling Norcold which I've already done and just got a "take it to your dealer". This response must be programmed into their telephone and ingrained in all trainees. Too bad Norcold's CS can't be just a small bit the way Fantastic Fan Vent and HWH is in helping customers out of their problems.
Allen
Think I really need some help from our Norcold experts. My Recall Box has been clattering (clicking rapidly) anytime the outside temps get into the 80's so yesterday I decided to install an additional 12V Radio Shack cooling fan to blow up through the cooling coils, but when I connected it to the same wire the shop installed the Box in the 12V fan would not run. (It do run when I connected it to my car battery.) I checked the voltage at the in/out connections on the Box and found (if I'm reading my multimeter correct) that it measured .7 mv. The meter dial is set to read DCV and the range was set to 200 mv so I'm assuming I read it right, never read any voltage that small.
Can there be more than one 12V line going to the frig control board, and the shop may have hooked into the wrong 12V wire? I can't see well enough in there
to tell what all the other wires are that are hooked to the control board but I do see 12V at the terminal where the Recall Box "out" wire goes to.
We just got back from an 8 day visit to relative with the coach and the frig worked just fine the whole time whether on 120V or LPG keeping inside temps in the 34-38 degrees set on #4.
This is getting more puzzeling as time goes on, and about run out of things to try in order to get rid of the clicking. But it does help to leave the outside vent door off whenever temps get up there , which doesn't look very nice on a large DP.
Anyone have any help, suggestions, ideas, etc., other than calling Norcold which I've already done and just got a "take it to your dealer". This response must be programmed into their telephone and ingrained in all trainees. Too bad Norcold's CS can't be just a small bit the way Fantastic Fan Vent and HWH is in helping customers out of their problems.
Allen