2001 Fleetwood Pace Arrow recently purchased

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phrank

Member
Joined
May 26, 2011
Posts
8
Location
Oswego, Illinois
I just purchased a 2001 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. This is our first RV and I may have bitten off more than I can handle.  I'm a pretty handy guy, but some of this RV is a mystery to me.  The folks I bought it from are not much help. Unfortunately, after bringing it home I have found a couple of issues that I need help with. The first is that it has electric adjustable mairrors and also heated mirrors.  They have stopped working and I am clueless as to where they get power. I saw them work before we bought the RV, so I am suspecting a blown fuse.  Also the front A/C unit does not run, even in test mode.  The manual says this indicates an electrical supply problem.  It appears to me that both A/C units are on the same ckt breaker and the rear unit works fine.  Is there a breaker or fuse in the roof unit, or a connector that could have come undone, maybe???? I have other questions... the manuals leave a lot to be desired.
 
This is one of the areas that buying from a good dealer helps.  My Southwind has 2 circuit breakers for AC.  Check again.  Mirrors are on a fuse, most likely in the driver footwell.  Ford chassis?  You should have a Ford F53 book, this ought to have the fuse info. 

As to manuals being helpful, you need to realize, there are manuals on each system.  The AC will have a manual, but it only covers up to the power source, they don't make the breaker panel.  That ought to be in the Pace Arrow book.  Don't fret, you will get the hang of it.

I inferred from yuour post it was a private party sale, if you saved as much as most claim buying private, use some of your savings and take it to a good delaer and have them go through the coach, a PDI type inspection.  They can give you a list of what needs attention and a cost to take care of the issue.  You can decide what to have fixed and what you can handle.

Don't worry, you will get it all done, you will get more confidence in what is happening and how to handle.  It comes with the territory.

 
Here is a response I made on a previous thread. It is a summary of what you are likely to find in your RV and should help you in understanding what you have on your hands!!! HTH

What you have and what will operate from what:

A Converter: Converts 120V to 12V , charges your house batteries and helps supply other 12V needs. Operates only when plugged in.

All lights are 12V and operate at all times.

The refrigerator operates on either Propane or 120V usually, and may default to 120V when the trailer is plugged in . It also requires 12V at all times for the control circuits. Thus, it is able to operate at any time. Check the buttons on the control panel for auto switch-over mode.

The furnace operates on propane and requires 12V for the control board. It usually operates from a thermostat and  can operate at any time.

The Water Heater: Uses 12V for the control circuit. Could be 120V and propane or only propane. Can operate at any time. Changeover from 120V to propane,  if 120V equipped,  is not automatic like the refrigerator but must be started in the propane mode intentionally. Both modes can be used simultaneously for faster heating if  both are equipped .

Thermostat is 12V and may control the Air Conditioner and will control the furnace.

The Air Conditioner requires 120V (plugged in) to operate. It may have a 12V interface if controlled by the thermostat.

120V plugs: operate only when plugged in.  A dedicated TV plug may be an exception if inverter is supplied

Microwave: same thing

Television: Operates on 120V usually. Some small ones in the past have been 12V but are not common. Often a small inverter (12V to 120V ) may be installed in the RV and will supply 120V for the TV so that it can operate at any time without the trailer being plugged in. Likely feeds a dedicated 120V plug behind the TV.

The OTA antenna (over the air) for the TV likely requires 12V as the head contains an amplifier. When equipped  the little control panel usually has a small LED light and a switch to turn it on. Most often, if cable is used, the switch is to remain off.
 
I have all of the manuals (I think). I am working my way through it all. So far I'm smiling more than swearing. I do plan to take it somewhere and have it inspected once I crack the code on most of it.  Every day I learn something new. My biggest screw up so far is not realizing that tire tread and mileage don't matter on RV tires. And I have learned the DOT code the hard way.  All the tires are from 2000 or 2001, so I have a set of six Michelins on order.  I blew a tire while parked in my driveway which was an excellent place for it to happen.
 
phrank:

Our 98 Pace had a fuse box on the drivers side of the front firewall that protected the chassis systems including the mirrors.

When you test the a/cs are you plugged into shore power or running your generator? Many systems will shed the load of one a/c on 30 amp shore power.
 
I've decide there is something wrong with the front A/C unit and I will be taking it to a dealer to get that checked out.  Th epower morrors are still a mystery to me and it seems it shouldn't be that complicated.  Also, I really feel stupid now because I discovered a push button and LCD readout in the compartment above the driver and I have no idea what they do... pushing the button causes the lcd screen to change from "--" to "LL".  The original owner is no help.  This RV stuff is pretty complicated.  Every day I discover a new "problem".  When does the fun start?
Any Fleetwood owners out ther can help me out????
 
IIRC the "LL" is the readout on a manual sat dish. When you start cranking it up it should start showing the antenna elevation.
 
I discovered a push button and LCD readout in the compartment above the driver and I have no idea what they do... pushing the button causes the lcd screen to change from "--" to "LL".

That's the display for a Winegard Elevation Magic on a Winegard manual satellite TV antenna.  As Jeff says, start cranking the antenna up and eventually the display will show the elevation in degrees.  It makes pointing the antenna a quick and easy job, assuming you have a satellite receiver.
 
Thanks... that clears up that mystery.  There is a dish on the roof but I don't have any kind of tv hookup currently.  TV is the least of my concerns for now.  I sure would like to get the power mirrors working but they are seyt okay for me now anyway.  Remaining big problem is the front A/C unit and I'm pretty sure it's broken...
 
For the a/c system, do you have a front/rear switch? To run the front a/c the switch should be set to "front".
J
 
34footer said:
For the a/c system, do you have a front/rear switch? To run the front a/c the switch should be set to "front".
J

On our 83 Pace is was just inside the door.
 
Thanks to everyone...
I found the electric mirror problem was a "missing" fuse in the panel on the driver side of the engine compartment. It was marked for something different than mirrors and I only figured it out by dumb luck. Apparenly the previous owner needed a fuse for something else and stole it.
The A/C problem turned out to be a loose connection between the coach and the A/C unit. We took a3 month trip January thru March of about 6000 miles. I now feel like I know what I'm doing but occasionally a problem pops up that is more difficult than it needs to be because of the lousy documention.  Thanks to all my fellow RV ers who hepd us along the way. I have learned a lot from all of you.  Now that we are certain we enjoy doing this, We are considering looking for a newer RV. This time I want a diesel pusher.  This is a terrific forum.
 
We have a 2000 Pace Arrow on a Ford chassis so maybe I can help you.
First..........  Does your Pace have the ''tip up dash'' on it?
If it does, raise the dash and look at the wiring coxes that lay across the steering column brace.  It is a flat piece of metal that was ''punched out'' with a punch press. 
Raise the bundles of wires that lay across this piece of metal and check for chafing of the wires.  Mine got chafed and my electric mirrors and my jacks stopped working.  I could replace the  fuses and they would blow again at the most inconvient times. 
If the wires are chaffed FIX THEM IMMEDIATLY and wrap the wire bundles with the foam insulation used to prevent pipes from freezing. 
Also...  TAKE A FILE AND RUB THE WIRE EDGE OFF THE steering column brace and take duct tape and put several layers on the edges to prevent chafing of the wires again.

Free advise from me .... DO NOT TAKE MY ADVISE ON THIS SUBJECT AS I MAY BE WRONG.....  If I am right, you must pay me ten cents the next time you see me...

Thank a vet for your freedoms ..... They bought them with their blood......cj
 
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