2016 Suncruiser Slide, 38Q (Driver's room slide) Stuck Open

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DaveRB55

Well-known member
Joined
May 19, 2017
Posts
45
Hello Everyone

Happy Sunday to you  all.  My motorhome is now at 100% for slide failure.  After replacing motors on both the passenger (right) and bedroom (left), I now have failure on my drivers (left) room slide.

Motorhome:  2016 Suncruiser 38Q
Equipment:  RPE DigiSync room Slide system by Powergear.  Drivers side floor slide, twin piston electric

When I tried to closing driver side floor slide the front motor engaged while the rear did not.  The slide moved inwards on the front end an inch or two.  The slide started to cock and then stopped.  On the Control panel I saw a 7 red, 2 green code.

Looking at my manual fault code table gave me the following
Fault type:  Major (control with Rev OD and Prior)  Minor (control with OE and after)
Desc:  Rail did no re-sync with opposing rail
Probable Cause:  Excessive system/room drag, obstruction, improper stop location or damaged component.
Possible Solutions:  Remove obstruction, re-adjust room, reset stops, or replace damaged component with Rev OE or prior:  Keep IN or OUT button on touchpad depressed until green ?room or Lock Movement? LED is no longer lit.  Refer to extending or retracting your slideout room section on page 2 for proper room operation (this is just instruction on how to open and close)

I checked under my rug along the floor  and the external gears for any obstruction and did not see any thing.  My operator manual gave no guidance how to verify whether I have an OD or OE rev but when the slide jams and stops, I tried pressing the in button until the green room lock button went out and then repeated the process again holding the out button until the green light went out.  No resolution

There is a manual mode procedure which directs removing the control panel and resetting a ?stop/clear Fault button.  The button is pressed until led?s blink which is supposed to put both motors in manual.  In and  Out control panel buttons are supposed to control the front and rear motor to manually retract.  Per the manual, this mode won't if there is a motor failure.  The rear motor did not respond.

So things are pointing to a motor problem but I?m just having trouble believing this electric motor freezes or fails after so little use.  BTW wiring all looked clean and connected.

I?ve had synchronization issues with my other slides.  I?m wondering if anyone has resolved a synchro problem with this specific type slide or if there is some process I may not have tried.

Also, I have a meter but I?m not the best at electrical trouble shooting.  Would like to verify I?m getting power to the motor.  I suspect I have power as I hear a click when I first try to close but no rotary movement in the gear drive.  If I disconnect the two wire connector to the motor, is it as simple as inserting my dc meter probes into the connector and then depressing the ?in? button to see if the 12 volts are present?  Or based I what I?ve stated, do I truly have a motor problem?

Any suggestion would be most welcome.

Thanks

Edit by staff - changed message icon to topic solved
 
DaveRB55 said:
....Also, I have a meter but I?m not the best at electrical trouble shooting.  Would like to verify I?m getting power to the motor.  I suspect I have power as I hear a click when I first try to close but no rotary movement in the gear drive.  If I disconnect the two wire connector to the motor, is it as simple as inserting my dc meter probes into the connector and then depressing the ?in? button to see if the 12 volts are present?  Or based I what I?ve stated, do I truly have a motor problem?..
Click to expand...
That's how I would troubleshoot. Start at the motor, have somebody press the switch and look for 12V. If you do have 12V there it doesn't necessarily mean the motor is bad, there could be an internal fuse or thermal switch in or on the motor that's opened up.
 
John,

Thanks for responding. I tried probing the connector to the motor and I tried it on the motor that works first so I would know what to expect.  However it did not show voltage and immediately displayed by LED code that I had a bad motor connection.  I guess the sensor knows there is a break with the wire disconnected    Makes me wonder how one would check that voltage is applied to the motor.  Trying to call Power Gear but no luck getting through yet.

Dave
 
You can poke through the insulation while the cable is plugged in. If your probes aren't designed to do this you can use pins.
 
John Hilley said:
You can poke through the insulation while the cable is plugged in. If your probes aren't designed to do this you can use pins.
Click to expand...

I've also used these for (low power only) splices or for making a "permanent" test point.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduct-tite-3354/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/universal-wire-connectors-25380/13d878ed189c/dorman-conduct-tite-blue-quick-waterproof-splices/85464/4176656/1993/ford/f-150?q=Universal+Wire+Connectors&pos=43

You slip the splice hdwe over the wire you want to measure and then put in a piece of stranded wire about the same size (to be used as a test point)  in the second (parallel) "tunnel" of the splicer  and squeeze 'em together with pliers.  When finished measuring,  I usually wire nut and tape my test lead there at the splice.  May not be a super good application for an "out in the open" environment where the slide motors are, but one could water proof the splice area with rubber tape perhaps ...... and it would be there the next time you want to measure the voltage.  'Course, pins are easier but for this ol' dude they are almost always "bloodier". lol

Good luck with the fix, Dave; and safe travels.
 
Link above seems to have gone south.  I will try again. Sorry.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduct-tite-3354/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/wire-terminals-19379/389c357f2202/dorman-conduct-tite-blue-quick-splice-terminal/85495/4176682?q=dorman+splice+&pos=1
 
Hopefully your slide problem is that the motors are out of sync.  Unfortunately, I have been fighting the driver's side slight out not retracting for years.  After several trips to the factory with no cure, I am convinced the coach or room is out of square.  I don't know how to prove or disprove it.
 
Well thanks for all the comments. 

Turns out the problem wasn't the motor but the brake mechanism.  Unfortunately, LCI doesn't sell the brake separately, they would rather sell a $900 motor assy. No surprise there.  I was about to start doing some probing but the mechanics showed up.  Really needed a 12 volt power supply to properly test this out.  Learned a lot watching and questioning the RV Techs.  Anyway, I've got a new motor ordered and should be here Friday for install.

Dave
 
Hi John,

The electric brake is mounted on the top of the motor.  As soon as he disconnected the brake assembly from the motor spindle, the motor started running.  Replacing the motor in the morning so I guess I will find out for sure then.

Dave
 
Just thought I would follow up with the close.  Motor and brake were replaced this morning.  Ran the slide in and out 4-5 times and works great.  Thanks again all for your input.
Dave
 
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