2018 F150 Towing Capacity Help

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Ctholin

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Oct 1, 2019
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11
I searched and didn't find my exact config, so trying here.  This is my first post, hope I'm not breaking any rules

Here is all the info I know

  • 2018 F150
    XLT Sport 2WD
    2.7L V6
    3.55
    145"
    Class IV Hitch, no add'l towing package
    Sticker says do not exceed 1609
    GVWR 6360
    Ford Towing guide says maxing towing capacity is 7700
    Also says GCWR is 12700

I am thinking I can tow about 5000lb dry weight + 1500lb fluids and cargo so 6500


  • Curb Weight 4603
    Car Payload 1475 (ppl, cargo, tongue weight)
    Empty Trailer 5000ish
    Trailer Load 1500ish
    =GCWR 12678

12678/12700 is probably too close for comfort so I would look to reduce, but looking for my starting point to work down from

We are looking for a TT that has a slide out and bunks.  I would like it to be <25' 
We are in SoCal and will probably weekend it up several times a year but not something we would be in for extended periods of time.

Couple of questions
1. Have I done the math right?
2. Any suggestions for TTs that fit the criteria?  I'm assuming its a bit of tall order but open to thoughts
3. Could I add anything (tow package, etc) safely and affordably that would increase my capacity?

Thanks in advance all!

 
Your math is right, but most vehicles actually exceed their official curb weight. I suspect you would exceed the both the truck GVWR and the combined (GCWR). As close as those numbers are to the max limits, you would need real scaled weight for the empty vehicle and the cargo+passengers.  Still, you need to be looking at trailers with a GVWR of 6000 or less, which implies  dry weight under 4500.

Do yourself a favor and forget dry weight - it will just suck you into an overweight condition. Maybe not on Day 1, but soon.  Trailer  cargo inevitably grows toward the GVWR and sometimes beyond.  Make your assessment based on trailer GVWR, not dry weight and cargo guessing.

You will have a struggle finding a late model 25 footer in that weight range.  Maybe a hybrid?
 
Thank you - yeah I guess realistically I expect to be in the 17-19' range.  I need something I can handle as I've never towed anything.  Ever.

I'll be a first timer, so I dont have much brand knowledge.  Are these worth looking at (2019-2020)?  My needs are relatively simple so I don't need top of the line, I don't think.  Mostly running around SoCal and maybe a few longer term trips.
GulfStream Ameri-Lite
Jayco
Keystone
Coleman
 
SeilerBird said:
Don't worry about the manufacturer. Find a floor plan you love at a price you like.
Click to expand...

That's a comforting suggestion, do you mind telling me why?  Is the build quality pretty comparable?  Are there really no absolute stinker brands?

Thanks in advance!
 
Ctholin said:
That's a comforting suggestion, do you mind telling me why?  Is the build quality pretty comparable?  Are there really no absolute stinker brands?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
No matter how well it is built it is still a house being driven down the road in an earthquake. How long an RV lasts will depend more on how it is driven and maintained than how well it was initially built. Yes a better built RV will last longer than a normal RV but not by much. There are no stinker brands in my book. The competition is too fierce to allow junk to be sold. Now occasionally there will be a lemon but overall RV quality is pretty good. The consensus around here is that RV quality is not very good, but I don't buy that at all.
 
In a given price class, yes the quality is comparable.  The designs don't differ much and they ll use the same brands of appliances.  Quality of materials and workmanship are largely driven by price. Cheap is cheap, no matter who makes it.  Sometimes one brand/model will make a poor choice that others don't share, but that usually gets corrected once it becomes evident. It's rarely something that is endemic to the brand.

Small travel trailers generally don't go very far upscale anyway - they are all vying for the weekender market and that's mostly not very interested in spending big bucks for high style or quality.  Only a few brands target the high end of small trailers, e.g. Airstream.  Just be aware that there will surely be a build quality difference between two models that appear to have the same size and equipment yet one costs  some thousands more.  The problem with all of them is that there is a disturbing amount of random production flaws, regardless of the overall quality. All brands build some lemons.
 
Thanks for your help all.  The salesperson at Camping World told me a 6700lb trailer would be no problem for my truck, but that didn't sound right.  Luckily, we only went there to look, based on their negative reputation.

I will be reaching out to more locally owned dealerships next, to confirm exactly what I can do.  It seems Jayco/Keystone have a few that fit the role, and that seems to be what a lot of places out here have in stock.

Thanks again!
 
If you took a poll on this website of 1000's of RV owners, you would get an overwhelming response to A.) not ever listen to a RV salesperson for advise, EVER and B) steer clear of Camping World, they will finance you upside and sideways, will tell you anything you want to hear for the sale, and have a terrible reputation for ANY warranty work or service after the sale.  You also would get advise that buying a couple year old Travel Trailer is the far superior thing to do because, it will be significantly cheaper, and the notorious warranty work will already be done.  (I do understand that some people need new for the financing options though)

As far as what you can pull, hate to tell you, but that 2.7L v6 is going to struggle, struggle a lot.  I have a 2005 YukonXL, 5.3V8, pull a 21' Trailer, no slides, 6500 lbs Loaded, and I struggle, especially on hills.  NoBody talks about the nasty wind sheer variable, the 8' wide, 10' tall wall you are pulling through the air.  All the specs are for pulling flat steel on a trailer, no wind resistance, and no side winds.  Keep it simple especially since this is your first adventure.  I highly encourage you to get on a Ford F150 Forum and get some feedback from some that have your specific truck and its towing capabilities. 

Good luck, keep asking us questions, you are a smart man doing your homework  :))
 
 
2.7 seems wrong for a 6 cylinder. Are you sure about that? No towing package, expect your tranny to go sooner than normal. A tranny cooler helps keep the tranny cool when pulling. You can add one but have a good reputable place do it. What gearing in the rear end? If you truly have a 2.7, don't tow with it. Get a different truck or skip buying a camper. It may pull ok for now but will start breaking down early. Not worth the headache.  A Pop up would probably do for a 2.7 without a tranny cooler though.
 
The 2.7 is a twin turbo v-6 which means it needs to rev to produce power so low end torque we need for towing isn't there. I understand people want an economical daily driver that can perform double duty but they have to be realistic about it's real world capabilities. We started out with a vehicle that according to the manufacturer was up to the job but were quickly disappointed. The next one and current ride is overkill and that's ok. ;D
 
You can find your exact truck on the 2018 Ford Towing Guide. It confrims the 7700 lb max tow, but that's for a truck that is empty except for driver & passenger. It is also without any options, so a high trim model is probably a bit less.  I'd guess that 7400 is closer to the truth.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/Ford_Linc_18RVTTowGuide_r11_Jan4.pdf
 
Yeah I will hit other limiting factors before I even come near 7700.

Whatever choice I make, I will be assuming max payload and therefore max TV GVWR, and leave a decent margin on GCWR even when considering loaded trailer weight (thanks to your advice, I'm only looking at fully loaded TW).  I don't plan on operating at the maxes, but this will mean that if I obey a few of these limits, I will always be under all of the limits.  If that makes sense.

I have had to lower my expectations a few times during this process, and that's OK.
 
Ctholin said:
I have had to lower my expectations a few times during this process, and that's OK.
Click to expand...
We have seen others that didn't, and had to go buy a bigger truck  :)

As mentioned above, there are some nice hybrids that can get you some extra room for your family.  The 183 might meet your needs/wants.  Actually a lot of camper once opened up.  https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/travel-trailers/rockwood-roo

 
LOL, I have a commute so gas mileage is 90% of my priority. 

Anyways, thanks for the suggestion - Jayco has something with the same layout i think so maybe i'll look at that.  Mainly because Jayco seems to be a prevalent brand out here, in terms of what is in stock.
 
Welcome to the Forum!

Very good advise above, so I will not repeat it all.  You are wise coming here and taking our comments seriously.

Using gross weights is very smart.  If you weigh a  bit less, it is a safety margin.
Buy used.  Save a ton of money and two tons of headaches.  If you love camping and upgrade campers, trading this one will hurt less. If you hate camping and want to sell, it will hurt less.
Consider hybrid or pop up campers for great starter units within your weight limits.
Floor plan, floor plan, condition, floor plan!  ;D
 
Quick follow up question - truck payload needs to include people, cargo, etc - basically everything.  That includes hitch hardware as well right?  That's not something that is already included in the 10% tongue weight value?

If i'm right, how much should i pencil in for that?  Is 200lb contribution to my truck payload a safe figure?
 
Ctholin said:
Quick follow up question - truck payload needs to include people, cargo, etc - basically everything.  That includes hitch hardware as well right?  That's not something that is already included in the 10% tongue weight value?

If i'm right, how much should i pencil in for that?  Is 200lb contribution to my truck payload a safe figure?
Click to expand...
Usually the payload # on your yellow sticker on the drivers door includes full tank of gas and 150# man.  Everything after that takes away from the payload #.  A weight distribution hitch WDH, will probably be closer to 100#.  This popular Equalizer shipping weight is 105#  https://www.etrailer.com/p-EQ37100ET.html

 
Usually the payload # on your yellow sticker on the drivers door includes full tank of gas and 150# man.
Click to expand...
This is always a source of confusion.  Payload does NOT include the driver but does include a full fuel tank.  Simply put, Payload = GVWR - Curb_Weight and curb weight does not include the driver.

The only rating that includes an allowance for a driver is the Max Tow Capacity, which is defined by the SAE 2807 standard to include a driver and a passenger at the FDOT standard 154 lbs each.
 
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