2018 F150 Towing Capacity Help

[SpencerPJ]

Thanks Gary, I once thought I heard that  )  Makes sense!

 

[Ctholin]

Currently I have my sites set on an X23B from Jayco.  It's 5500lbs max weight, but I'm continuing to do all the research.  Hopefully I don't have to lower expectations from this but we'll see, gonna hit as many forums as possible.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

Thanks Gary, I once thought I heard that

You probably remember right.  There was a brief period where some manufacturers tried to provide a net payload value by assuming a driver weight of 154 lbs (70 kg, the weight of the standard safety test dummy). That just added confusion, since some trucks had the net figure while others still quoted gross payload, plus hardly anybody weighed exactly 154 lbs. The RVIA went a step further and tried to standardize a net RV cargo capacity, which required several assumptions that rarely held in the real world.  The feds stepped in by formulating a safety standard for tire loading and cargo-carrying capacity. After numerous go-arounds and tech hearings, they decided that the simplest was the most useful and easiest to understand.  Basically "cargo" is anything and everything carried in or on the vehicle. If it is added after the vehicle leaves the factory, it is cargo.

 

[grashley]

The payload does not include anything except the full fuel tank, as stated above.  A "typical" WD hitch will weigh around 80#.  For a 5500# GVWR camper, expect a hitch wt of 550# MINIMUM.  650# is better.  Plus 80# for the hitch.  Maybe 700# for the trailer and hitch?

Thanks again for doing your homework, being safe and trying to get it right the first time!!!

 

[Ctholin]

Now that I've circled around some basic numbers for myself - how do you guys suggest I analyze the TV axle weight loads?

I have my ratings from Ford on the sticker, but how can i calculate how much weight will be going on the truck axles?

Thanks
Colin

 

[grashley]

The axle weights  (GAWR) will total more than the truck GVWR, so the load does not need to be perfectly balanced.  If the camper tongue wt (10% - 12% of camper GVWR) plus your hitch (about 80#) and passengers and cargo are within your payload on the sticker, you win round one.  If the WD hitch is properly adjusted (I will allow others to address this), then a good portion of the hitch wt is transferred to the front axle, and you will be well within axle ratings.

If you want real numbers, it requires a loaded truck, camper and a trip to the scales.

 

[Ctholin]

Thanks - that helps!

I also just realized that I have a removable tailgate.  Wonder how much that weighs.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If the total weight applied to the truck (passengers, cargo, hitch & tongue weight) is less than the truck Cargo Capacity (aka payload) as shown on the door placard, you won't have to worry much about axle loads.  However, if the total is very close to the Cargo Capacity, it would be wise to get scaled weights to be sure you aren't exceeding the truck rear axle limit (rear GAWR or RAWR).  Use of a WD hitch and the proper adjustment of it can be critical in this case, since the WD shifts weight from the rear axle to the front.

 

[Alfa38User]

Thanks - that helps!

I also just realized that I have a removable tailgate.  Wonder how much that weighs.

If you need to consider that weight to get you over the hump of being close or overweight, forget it. You are too close for comfort as you can usually pick one up and carry it away in two hands.

 

[Ctholin]

If you need to consider that weight to get you over the hump of being close or overweight, forget it. You are too close for comfort as you can usually pick one up and carry it away in two hands.

I knew someone would say that

 

[Oldgator73]

I computed my trucks tow capacity using the standard formulas and then estimated what we would carry and then subtracted another 20% just to be safe.

 

[steveblonde]

If you need to consider that weight to get you over the hump of being close or overweight, forget it. You are too close for comfort as you can usually pick one up and carry it away in two hands.

Very eloquently said i concure

 

[pip]

The 2.7 is a twin turbo v-6 which means it needs to rev to produce power so low end torque we need for towing isn't there. I understand people want an economical daily driver that can perform double duty but they have to be realistic about it's real world capabilities. We started out with a vehicle that according to the manufacturer was up to the job but were quickly disappointed. The next one and current ride is overkill and that's ok. ;D

There's a lot of good info in this thread, but this is incorrect.  The advantage of turbocharging is that the torque ramps up much faster than a naturally aspirated engine. 

To the OP, if you're looking at the ecoboost, I would strongly suggest going to the 3.5L.  The 2.7L is good, and economical with plenty of power for most towing applications, but the 3.5 will give you the best specs for towing with a minor drop in fuel economy.  My dad has a 16 with the 2.7 and 3.55 gears.  He's getting 23-25mpg on the interstate under normal conditions.  My 18 with a 3.5, 3.55 and LT tires is getting about 20-22.  For a 4x4 crew cab truck, that's still amazing to me.