I am ready to have a hose made to connect the outside auxiliary propane valve to my Weber Q-1000 grill. Does anyone know if this valve is on the coach pressure regulator line? If not It is I will have to figure out how to bypass the grill regulator. Help!
27N auxiliary propane valve.
- Thread starter budbon
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Kevin Means
Site Team
You should be able to tell if the auxiliary valve has high pressure propane or low pressure propane by looking at where it comes off the propane tank. If it's attached to a T-fitting that's between the tank and the regulator it's high pressure propane. If it's attached after the regulator it's low pressure propane. My guess is it would be high pressure, because those valves are usually installed so you can run your grill of the main tank.
The T-fittings, hoses and connectors are available at most RV stores. You shouldn't have to have any custom made - unless you want a unique length.
Kev
The T-fittings, hoses and connectors are available at most RV stores. You shouldn't have to have any custom made - unless you want a unique length.
Kev
I guess my next question is will running the propane thru two regulators make a difference? It seems if the first regulator is adjusting the gas to 11lb (example) and the second regulator is also set to 11lb, there should be no reduction of flow. Am I missing something?
Alfa38User
Well-known member
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Unfortunately, there are many previous reports that state running through two regulators is problematic and results in poor heating on the BBQ grill. It is also my experience as well. You have to either remove/bypass the regulator on the Weber or add a take-off from the RV tank on the high pressure side.... Just as you surmised in your original post.....
These grills are often intended to use those small (1 lb) canisters and thus need a regulator built into the grill as there is none on the canister itself.
These grills are often intended to use those small (1 lb) canisters and thus need a regulator built into the grill as there is none on the canister itself.
There is a reason for two regulators on your rv and that reason is not as a backup.
The first regulator or first stage of regulation should be set to approximately 10 psi and is not adjustable.
Your LP burning appliances have been designed to operate with a delivery pressure of between 10 to 14 water column inches. For optimum performance the operating pressure is set at 11 inches Water Column (not psi), about the middle of this range. That is what your second stage regulator does, drops the pressure further down to within thee Water Column Range and it should be adjustable.
WC and psi are very different with WC being much lower.
Some stoves may have a third regulator in the stove that drops the pressure to 10 WC.
Your BBQ, if it likes high btu, is not gonna be happy receiving the lower 11 WC of pressure.
The propane barbecue can use a high-pressure propane delivery system, which requires a high-pressure regulator. This can vary from between 10 and 60 psi (the pressure measurement). Or, you can have a low-pressure delivery system (for propane barbecues up to 50,000 btu). The latter should be used only with natural gas or propane that has been set up to be used in an RV.
Most larger propane barbecue sets require a high-pressure and a high pressure regulator, like the one in my backyard. The highest are most suited for outdoor cookers where a greater flow of gas is needed than normal (these regulators are adjustable between 0-60 psi).
The first regulator or first stage of regulation should be set to approximately 10 psi and is not adjustable.
Your LP burning appliances have been designed to operate with a delivery pressure of between 10 to 14 water column inches. For optimum performance the operating pressure is set at 11 inches Water Column (not psi), about the middle of this range. That is what your second stage regulator does, drops the pressure further down to within thee Water Column Range and it should be adjustable.
WC and psi are very different with WC being much lower.
Some stoves may have a third regulator in the stove that drops the pressure to 10 WC.
Your BBQ, if it likes high btu, is not gonna be happy receiving the lower 11 WC of pressure.
The propane barbecue can use a high-pressure propane delivery system, which requires a high-pressure regulator. This can vary from between 10 and 60 psi (the pressure measurement). Or, you can have a low-pressure delivery system (for propane barbecues up to 50,000 btu). The latter should be used only with natural gas or propane that has been set up to be used in an RV.
Most larger propane barbecue sets require a high-pressure and a high pressure regulator, like the one in my backyard. The highest are most suited for outdoor cookers where a greater flow of gas is needed than normal (these regulators are adjustable between 0-60 psi).
It was my hope to connect the barbecue to the auxiliary outlet on my motorhome. It seems the pressure there is already regulated. Adding new plumbing to the motorhome on the high side does not sound attractive to me. Neither is removing the regulator from the barbecue, thus making it unserviceable for other uses such as tailgating. It would seem the RV manufacture would consider these things in their engineering. I guess it's time to stock up on small propane bottles.
Did you confirm the amount of pressure coming out by attaching first a high pressure gauge to it first and then a manometer, either u tube or electronic? Can you not simply match the bbq to the btu capacity by changing bbq's if you need to, assuming it is the lower pressure that is being delivered? Would it be that difficult to find a place to attach a DOT cylinder if you have a high btu BBQ? A DOT cylinder must remain upright.
For some reason, I thought RVing was a study in compromises and creative solutions.
For some reason, I thought RVing was a study in compromises and creative solutions.
Sorry, I often forget I can't edit my posts in this forum. If it is high pressure coming out, you can use another regulator or regulators to down step the pressure to what you need. When I refer to a manometer I'm referring to the low pressure type for finer LP pressure adjustments.
Opps wrong, just found the modify option.
Opps wrong, just found the modify option.
John Hilley
Well-known member
A Sturgi Stay would solve you problem and give you some added utility. It is a simple 5 minute install.
Sturgi Stay
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators/sturgi-stay-quick-disconnects.html
Sturgi Stay
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/rv-propane-hoses-sturgi-stays-quick-disconnects-regulators/sturgi-stay-quick-disconnects.html
Kevin Means
Site Team
Bubon, don't give up... it's not a big deal to install a Sturgi-stay, Extend-a-stay or other device with a different name that does the same thing. Ours cost $19.00 I and installed it in 15 minutes. It's installed in front of my tank's regulator so I can get high pressure propane to a catalytic heater on the other end of a hose but the hose could just as easily be attached to a grill, because they have the same fitting. Both were designed to be used with those green propane bottles. They work great.
Kev
Kev
I think it is designed to hook up a DOT cylinder and allow one to put more propane into your rv via your two regulators. I don't know if it allows a path from the ASME tank outwards to a BBQ, but if it does the ASME tank uses a standard POL value so the full tank pressure will be exiting through the extend stay hookup.
A DOT cylinder commonly used for a BBQ uses a Type I DOT cylinder value aka RV Type I CGA 791 service value.
I don't know, but you need to verify that you don't need something to help control the pressure between that POL value and the high btu BBQ.
I didn't read anything in the marketing materials that talked about using it to hook up an ASME tank to your BBQ, but ???
A DOT cylinder commonly used for a BBQ uses a Type I DOT cylinder value aka RV Type I CGA 791 service value.
I don't know, but you need to verify that you don't need something to help control the pressure between that POL value and the high btu BBQ.
I didn't read anything in the marketing materials that talked about using it to hook up an ASME tank to your BBQ, but ???
Kevin Means
Site Team
I've never looked into the Sturi-stay but the Marshal advertisement for their T-fitting says... "Marshall Excelsior Flow Longer Propane Kit MER470 allows the RV owner to fuel small portable high pressure propane appliances such as camp stoves and lanterns and table top grills directly from the fuel supply on your own RV or cottage rather than using the small expensive throw away propane cylinders that are designed to normally thread in to these appliances." Camco has a similar advertisement for their T-fittings (Ours is Camco).
Kev
Kev
I wonder what the actual pressure coming out of this fitting will be or his auxiliary outlet is...both seem to be low pressure for smaller bbq's. I think some tailgaters like the heavier duty, higher pressure, high btu bbq's so they can put enough on the grill for a party with a reasonably sized group.
Some of the big guys look at those DOT cylinders compared to the ASME tanks and think of those cylinders as tiny portables that also are good for weight lifting.
Some of the big guys look at those DOT cylinders compared to the ASME tanks and think of those cylinders as tiny portables that also are good for weight lifting.
Kevin Means
Site Team
Roger, our T-fitting is installed between the tank and the tank's regulator so the hose that comes off that fitting has whatever pressure is in the tank. It's definitely high pressure propane. The only regulator the propane in that line ever sees is the one that's in the portable grill or the one that's in the catalytic heater - which ever one we've got it hooked up to.
While installing the T-fitting and hose, I was evaluating the ability of the hose's quick-release fitting to seal, because I was a bit surprised at how much pressure was in the line. It seals fine but, just to be on the safe side, I've decided to travel with the propane turned off at the tank. In our previous two motorhomes we always left the tank valve open unless we were gassing up, because we had a propane fridge and water-heater - but those appliances get their propane after the regulator, not before it, so their lines aren't pressurized as much. The only thing that uses propane in our current coach are three burners in the kitchen and we've never used them even once. I much prefer to grill outdoors.
If Budbon is still here, FWIW, I still keep a few of those little bottles on hand, because they are pretty handy but it's sure nice being able to run things off the propane in our main tank. If you're concerned about doing the installation yourself, there are several good videos on youtube that show you how to do it.
Kev
While installing the T-fitting and hose, I was evaluating the ability of the hose's quick-release fitting to seal, because I was a bit surprised at how much pressure was in the line. It seals fine but, just to be on the safe side, I've decided to travel with the propane turned off at the tank. In our previous two motorhomes we always left the tank valve open unless we were gassing up, because we had a propane fridge and water-heater - but those appliances get their propane after the regulator, not before it, so their lines aren't pressurized as much. The only thing that uses propane in our current coach are three burners in the kitchen and we've never used them even once. I much prefer to grill outdoors.
If Budbon is still here, FWIW, I still keep a few of those little bottles on hand, because they are pretty handy but it's sure nice being able to run things off the propane in our main tank. If you're concerned about doing the installation yourself, there are several good videos on youtube that show you how to do it.
Kev
John Hilley
Well-known member
I like the quick connects with an on/off valve
Ball valve quick disconnect
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/bbq-grill-gas-hose-connectors-and-quick-disconnects/quick-disconnects-plugs/model-5-3-4-ball-valve-quick-disconnect.html
Ball valve quick disconnect
http://mbsturgis.com/products/mb/bbq-grill-gas-hose-connectors-and-quick-disconnects/quick-disconnects-plugs/model-5-3-4-ball-valve-quick-disconnect.html
Thanks for the additional information Kevin. I would be comfortable doing the install myself and yes if the T is installed before the regulators you are receiving full pressure. Really nice add on.
There are some arguments for leaving the propane service value on or turning it off when traveling. There are ways to keep the frig cold for a day trip, so I myself would do the same and turn off the service value. Many owners will feel different...and would say turning off the service value is over doing it.
There are some arguments for leaving the propane service value on or turning it off when traveling. There are ways to keep the frig cold for a day trip, so I myself would do the same and turn off the service value. Many owners will feel different...and would say turning off the service value is over doing it.
Kevin Means
Site Team
John, I completely agree. I saw that quick-disconnect valve when I was getting all the parts for our installation but could not make it fit in the space I had to mount the end of my hose. The quick-disconnect fitting I ended up using seems pretty well built. After installing it, I plugged the heater into it over and over, and I soaped that fitting every which way from Sunday to see if it would leak but it never has.
In our previous two motorhomes, we always traveled with the propane tank's valve full-open. I had read all the pros and cons and I listened to several perspectives on the matter, but it just didn't seem like there was much of a risk to run our propane appliances while driving - but that was with lower pressure propane. The line I installed in our current MH has high pressure propane and since we don't have a propane fridge or water heater, and we'll never use the catalytic heater or the three burners while driving, there's really no reason at all to have to propane on while driving.
Roger - no doubt you could install one of these yourself. The hardest part was routing the hose to where I needed it but that's always the case, isn't it. All you need are couple of wrenches, some Teflon tape and a match to check for leaks when you're done. ;D
Kev
In our previous two motorhomes, we always traveled with the propane tank's valve full-open. I had read all the pros and cons and I listened to several perspectives on the matter, but it just didn't seem like there was much of a risk to run our propane appliances while driving - but that was with lower pressure propane. The line I installed in our current MH has high pressure propane and since we don't have a propane fridge or water heater, and we'll never use the catalytic heater or the three burners while driving, there's really no reason at all to have to propane on while driving.
Roger - no doubt you could install one of these yourself. The hardest part was routing the hose to where I needed it but that's always the case, isn't it. All you need are couple of wrenches, some Teflon tape and a match to check for leaks when you're done. ;D
Kev
