50 amp new... old TT only 30, Campground offers 30/50 ???

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tanglemoose

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Our new TT is going to be 50 instead of 30... hubby said to go look one more time and me decide,...Whoopi

That being said. I see some CG are more $ for 50.. if I am not wanting to run AC do I care. What do I get for 50?

Also, we have a 2000 generator to run TV, guess that will work? We have adapter for 30 down to 110 3 prong, guessing we need 50 down?

Also, need to buy surge ems for TT don't own one now. If you buy 50 amp one and pull into electric cg that only has 30, do we need another dogbone....

all the questions, what adapters do we need...

Thanks, looking at a keystone cougar half ton model 25rdswe...

The montana crea...
 
50 amp is required for RVs that have 2 air conditioners. If you don't need air conditioning or if only one a/c is needed, you can hook up to a 30 amp pedestal by using a dog bone from the 30 amp pedestal to the 50 amp RV cord. Not a big deal. The 30 amp will run one of the a/c units.

Also, get a 50 amp surge protector. If you are at a 30 amp pedestal, put the surge protector between the TT power cord and the dog bone. Good quality surge protectors will protect your RV not only from voltage surges, but also low voltage and miss wired pedestals. Progressive Dynamics is a top of the line protector. I use a Camco surge protector with is less expensive, but does all the the PD does. I also like the looks of the Hughes Autoformer which has more features than the PD and Camco and costs less. Stay away from the cheaper surge protectors as they protect you from one surge and then won't work again and you have to buy a new one. I hope this helps. Here are some links on Amazon:

Please feel free to ask more questions. And if hubby bitches about the price of the surge protector, remind him he made you queen of the surge protectors. ;D
 
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tanglemoose said:
Our new TT is going to be 50 instead of 30... hubby said to go look one more time and me decide,...Whoopi

That being said. I see some CG are more $ for 50.. if I am not wanting to run AC do I care. What do I get for 50?

What you get is a system that is not a holdover from over 50 years ago, that will be capable of running virtually anything you can through at it without risk of tripping the main breaker.  I see from a later post you only have one A/C unit, so the second wasn't the reason yours is so equipped.  It may be that the second 50 amp leg doesn't even run anything, but even if that's the case you have a system with 66% more capacity (and over 3x the capacity if both legs are used).

Also, a dogbone for going from a 30 amp pedestal to your 50 amp cord will be safe (although you'll still have the risk of tripping the main breaker at the pedestal, but at least that overloaded component will be outside your RV).

The only downside is the cord will be heavier and less flexible.

Be thankful for what you have.
 
If you buy a 50 amp RV and want to make it look like a 30.. I have a 30 amp shore cord for a 50 amp RV stored under my bed...  I got it at General RV (it's also a superflex) put new ends on it a year or 2 ago so it's in good condition. Save for one splice within 12" of one end so you can cut that out if you wish.

Has a 30 amp plug and a 50 amp marinco outlet to  match the RV.. I liked it because when in a 30 amp only park it was lighter, and as I said super flex so cold was NOT an issue.
 
"if I am not wanting to run AC do I care. What do I get for 50?"

You get more amperage.

If you can afford the extra bucks for the 50 AMP, If it was me I would get it.
In the future you might want to add a second AC unit or any number of up grades requiring more power.

Jack L

 
You can run the one air conditioner and use a hair dryer or microwave, while your water heater and refrigerator are on electric.

You can?t do that with 30 amp service.
 
Buy a 50A-->30A adapter. Not the thing you linked to above - that is something different. The adapter allows you to plug an 50A power cord into a 30A outlet or extension. You can still use the same 30A--> 110-3-prong you now have, thus going from 50A to 30A to 15A (110) using both adapters.  You can buy at Walmart or Amazon or any RV store.

https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Dogbone-Adapter-Electrical-Converter/dp/B0785H8QDD/


50A power more than triples the electric available in your trailer, allowing you to run multiple appliances at the same time. For example, the a/c and the water heater (electric mode) and the fridge (electric) and still have power left for a microwave or toaster.  That wouldn't be practical in a 30A RV.  Your new trailer probably has more electrical appliances that can operate on shore power than your old one, so you will probably quickly get used to consuming more power.

You can save money by renting 30A instead of 50A.  However, when you plug the trailer 50A cord into a 30A outlet, it reverts to being a 30A RV.  No free lunch!

Getting a surge protector (or not) is a separate question, so I won't mix that with the answers to your original questions on 50 vs 30.
 
John From Detroit said:
If you buy a 50 amp RV and want to make it look like a 30.. I have a 30 amp shore cord for a 50 amp RV stored under my bed...  I got it at General RV (it's also a superflex) put new ends on it a year or 2 ago so it's in good condition.

I wonder how many camps would charge you for 50 if you only connect to the 30 amp service with a dogbone? 

If it's common, and if the power cord is detachable, then carrying a second cord might be worthwhile.  I'd suggest having an electrician hook up the new 30 amp plug end.

As a side benefit it would give some redundancy if the main cord was damaged, but at the cost of carrying around maybe 25 more pounds and some space.
 
tanglemoose said:
I was looking at this one, what is big difference? Only one ac in unit.


Not an EMS. Surge protector only. you do not want that. Buy a 50 amp EMS.




 
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Ok, we bought the new RV. It is a 50 amp as they have an option for that. And it came with that. pre-wired it for a 2nd AC if we ever decide we want one. HA WE LIVE AT 5500 FEET AND CAMP AT 7 TO 9000, two heaters, I might consider ha.... so if we can get 50 at campground  we will. I am sure boondocking, dry camping, will not matter to the electric cord.

So, buying a EMS, are you happy you convinced us, or I say me... now.. I looked at a Southwire model 34951 today. The guy checked and said. If we pull up to pedestal and there is no 50 offered we can use dog bone on pedestal, attach to Surge Guard and then to rv 50 amp cord. He checked with parts manager. He said the new LCD panel will allow you to dog bone to pedestal.

Ok, that being said, you recommended a few and not Southwire???? I can get a Progressive one from Amazon before we leave but not a southwire brand... will it do the same if we have to plug into 30??? Anyone know?

Thanks.... I am ready to leave this cold!

 
Get a Progressive Industries  PT50X (portable) or HW50_ (hardwired) . They watch the quality of your incoming power and give a code telling what the problem is plus they protect against surges.  They're more than a surge protector.
 
Progressive, Southwire, Hughes Watch Dog. 3 very reputable companies. All building the same product. EMS hard-wired and portable. 1 new into the field. The other two sold companies. All with varying degrees of warranty and reputation.
do your research and choose what is best for you. you need a 50/30 dogbone also. Yes, your 50 240 volt RV will work on 30 120.

 
cavie said:
Progressive, Southwire, Hughes Watch Dog. 3 very reputable companies. All building the same product. EMS hard-wired and portable. 1 new into the field. The other two sold companies. All with varying degrees of warranty and reputation.
do your research and choose what is best for you. you need a 50/30 dogbone also. Yes, your 50 240 volt RV will work on 30 120.

So correct to put dogbone from the 50 ems to 30 pedestal... or is one of those black adapters better or same thing?

Shipping is awful right now.. and dealers so high...wondering if you walk into camping world store as good as online price... my next research who has one at good price to walk out door.

Thanks for your input!
 
tanglemoose said:
So correct to put dogbone from the 50 ems to 30 pedestal... or is one of those black adapters better or same thing?

Shipping is awful right now.. and dealers so high...wondering if you walk into camping world store as good as online price... my next research who has one at good price to walk out door.

Thanks for your input!

The dogbones are usually better quality than the "hockey puck" adapters with less tendency to overheat. Walmart usually has the dogbones in their RV section.
 
tanglemoose said:
So correct to put dogbone from the 50 ems to 30 pedestal... or is one of those black adapters better or same thing?

Shipping is awful right now.. and dealers so high...wondering if you walk into camping world store as good as online price... my next research who has one at good price to walk out door.

Thanks for your input!

I don't know what black adaptors you are talking about. If it is one of those hockey puck adaptors, No they are junk. They get hot and melt. You need a 2' dogbone. Stay away from Camping World. Amazon is your friend.
 
I've never heard of a campground charging more for 50 amps.

I've also never used a surge protector and have never had a problem in over 20 years. When you boondock you're not connected.

Most electrical connections are pretty stable. Newer RVs tend to be more resilient to voltage fluxuations and are more energy efficient. We leave our RV connected to a standard home outlet whenever we are at home. Running the AC or space heater is no problem. I run a 50 foot 10 guage extension cord to my RV. It has a solid shroud so you can drive over it and its more flexible in cold weather.

My RV is only 30 amp but the two adapters below will allow you to connect to anything but you are still limited by the source. If you draw too many amps it will just trip the breaker; no big deal.

There are adapters below. One is a 50 to 30 and the other is a 30 to 15. I like this brand because they have an LED so you can see it in the dark. You can buy them at Walmart or on line.


 
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tanglemoose said:
Also, we have a 2000 generator to run TV, guess that will work?

If you go with a hard wired model like a PI you will need a neutral bonding plug to so your EMS doesn't see an open neutral when you are running your gen.  Easy to make one - just google it, simply jump a wire from the ground to the neutral on a male 110 v plug and plug it into the 110 v outlet on the gen.
 

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