ac front-rear selector switch

[kdbgoat]

Would a Square D smart relay work for that?

 

[NY_Dutch]

I don't know how Winnie wires the front/rear A/C switch, but here's the way our previous Coachmen was wired. The diagram includes a mod I made that allowed me to plug the front A/C with an extension cord plugged into the shorepower's 15/20 amp utility outlet when the rear A/C was selected and powered by the 30 amp shorepower. With the setup shown, removing the selector switch and hard wiring both A/C's to the 30 amp side would create a direct back feed through the generator's 20 amp breaker, causing it to trip. The ATS does not switch that leg...

 

[John Canfield]

Wow, I wish Winnebago would make block diagrams of the electrical systems - it would make troubleshooting/mods so much easier. I think our latest OP wanted an automatic switch arrangement, making a manual switch setup would be pretty easy.

 

[NY_Dutch]

John, an automated system that would allow running both A/C's when the generator is running but only one on shorepower could easily be done with a relay that duplicates the switch action, but a manual selector switch would still be needed for front/rear choice on shore power. Replacing the original OEM switch with a similar one would likely be the simplest solution.

 

[bounder93]

I don't know how Winnie wires the front/rear A/C switch, but here's the way our previous Coachmen was wired. The diagram includes a mod I made that allowed me to plug the front A/C with an extension cord plugged into the shorepower's 15/20 amp utility outlet when the rear A/C was selected and powered by the 30 amp shorepower. With the setup shown, removing the selector switch and hard wiring both A/C's to the 30 amp side would create a direct back feed through the generator's 20 amp breaker, causing it to trip. The ATS does not switch that leg...

I know this is WAY late to the discussion, but all of this is ignoring the way the neutral needs to be wired. When hooked to shore power, all loads MUST have their neutrals NOT connected to ground in the RV, or any ground fault breaker supplying the RV will trip. Immediately.
When on the generator, the RV neutral MUST be grounded inside the RV somewhere or the resulting floating voltages will destroy TVs and things.
The funky wiring connecting the two AC units together must also have bonded the neutrals. So tripping the 20a gen breaker was the only way to 'correct' that situation, disconnecting the generator neutral bond to ground.
Lots to think about here.

 

[Rob&Deryl]

Ah, bonding the generator neutral works.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

When on the generator, the RV neutral MUST be grounded inside the RV somewhere or the resulting floating voltages will destroy TVs and things.

The RV's onboard generator provides the ground and neutral path when in use - no need to alter the RV wiring. When using an external generator, that generator either provides a ground & neutral path or a generator bonding plug is used between RV shore cord and generator to simulate it.

In no circumstances should the RV load center or branch circuits be modified to add grounds or bond neutral to ground.