I don't have an on-board generator on our gooseneck trailer. I want to run the AC unit while driving down the road. I have plenty of room in the bed of the truck for our twin Honda 2000's. I want to put a second shore power connection at the gooseneck; my concern is what to use as a switch so the prongs on the original shore power cable aren't "hot".
Adding a shore power connection
- Thread starter madhouse
- Start date
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grashley
Well-known member
Do you have a "gen prep" package on the trailer? My FW has a gen setup in the front with it pre wired, so connecting a genny to that wiring would be simple.
Where is the power panel installed in the trailer? Does it have a Auto Transfer Switch or room to add one? Can you get genny power to that point?
Where is the power panel installed in the trailer? Does it have a Auto Transfer Switch or room to add one? Can you get genny power to that point?
John From Detroit
Well-known member
What you use is an Automatic Transfer Switch.. Same as I have in my motor home. Now there is one more quesiton 30 or 50 amp RV (There is an alternate method too I will mention this works GREAT for ONE A/C on a 50 amp RV.
But before you do anything make sure your Generator can handle the load.. Two A/C's is around 26 to 30 amps RUNNING, more starting that's a lot of power. and that is if it's not too hot out. If it gets hot that 26 can quickly become 40 or more.
TO install an auto Transfer Switch
Find any handy point where you can CUT THE Shore cord between teh inlet and the power distribution panel.. NOTE. the panel may be the place.
Connect all 3 (30 amp) or 4 (50 amp) wires to the proper LINE or SHORE terminals on teh ATS
Run heavy (Same gauge) wire from the GENERATOR lines to the front aux input.
And of course the LOAD terminals go to the distribution panel. NOTE black and red can be swapped but white and green/bare can not.
Single A/C method... This lets you power JUST the air conditioer, nothign else, from the "Front" generator.
Disconnect the leads to the Roof mounted A/C at the distribution panel and move them to a new "Junction" box behind the existing panel. Extend (using at least 12ga wire) out to the front where you put in an INLET box 20 amp.. With a 20 amp circuit breaker.
Also run a new line from the original 20 amp breaker out to this same spot and put an OUTLET labeled. I'd use a standard 15/20 amp outlet and a twist lock inlet
make up a 12 ga patch cable to connect them (When parked on site using shore power
TO use generator. make up a patch cord to connect Generator to INLET.
NOTE: on site you can power that A/C off the park's 20 amp outlet if you wish as well. How I do it on 30 amp (or even a 20/20 amp site) with my Class A.
NOTE: for that extended line (The A/C side) common practice is to use wire nuts. I've never been that pleased with 'em. I wound up soldering.. Split bolts work well too.
But before you do anything make sure your Generator can handle the load.. Two A/C's is around 26 to 30 amps RUNNING, more starting that's a lot of power. and that is if it's not too hot out. If it gets hot that 26 can quickly become 40 or more.
TO install an auto Transfer Switch
Find any handy point where you can CUT THE Shore cord between teh inlet and the power distribution panel.. NOTE. the panel may be the place.
Connect all 3 (30 amp) or 4 (50 amp) wires to the proper LINE or SHORE terminals on teh ATS
Run heavy (Same gauge) wire from the GENERATOR lines to the front aux input.
And of course the LOAD terminals go to the distribution panel. NOTE black and red can be swapped but white and green/bare can not.
Single A/C method... This lets you power JUST the air conditioer, nothign else, from the "Front" generator.
Disconnect the leads to the Roof mounted A/C at the distribution panel and move them to a new "Junction" box behind the existing panel. Extend (using at least 12ga wire) out to the front where you put in an INLET box 20 amp.. With a 20 amp circuit breaker.
Also run a new line from the original 20 amp breaker out to this same spot and put an OUTLET labeled. I'd use a standard 15/20 amp outlet and a twist lock inlet
make up a 12 ga patch cable to connect them (When parked on site using shore power
TO use generator. make up a patch cord to connect Generator to INLET.
NOTE: on site you can power that A/C off the park's 20 amp outlet if you wish as well. How I do it on 30 amp (or even a 20/20 amp site) with my Class A.
NOTE: for that extended line (The A/C side) common practice is to use wire nuts. I've never been that pleased with 'em. I wound up soldering.. Split bolts work well too.
Lou Schneider
Site Team
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2005
- Posts
- 13,321
If your trailer's power cord is permanently connected and you stuff it into the wall for storage, just mount a matching receptacle inside the storage box and plug the trailer's power cord into it when you store the cord.
The receptacle is fed from the gooseneck feed going to the truck mounted generator.
The receptacle is fed from the gooseneck feed going to the truck mounted generator.
Lou Schneider said:
Oooohh. I like this idea! Cheap and simple. Thanks Lou.
To answer previous questions. One AC unit. 30amps. The twin Honda's (I actually have Powerhorse brand - I'd do the Honda's next time - that's another subject) have pleanty of power for the AC.
