Adding water while dry camping

[Molaker]

Not so sure there will be much plumbing necessary - depending upon what plumbing you already have.  First, does your water system have a winterize mode.  Second, do you have any kind of outside water outlet (shower, faucet, etc.)  If you have those, the only plumbing needed would be to make up a hose that would go from the outside source to the city water inlet.  The only thing I don't know at this stage is whether or not the water system manifold can be set to pull in water from the external container and pump into the city water inlet.  Test time, I guess.  I'll let you know.

Well, I tried out my idea.  It didn't work the way I had hoped.  The problem was, my idea was overly complicated - and unnecessary.

Okay, let me lay out my system first, which I think is a quite common system.  My water manifold has 5 valves.

Top left corner - "Fill"
Top right corner - "Use"
Center - "Winterize"
Bottom left corner - "Hot Water Line Drain"
Bottom right corner - "Cold Water Line Drain"

The only thing I had to do was connect up the hose like I was going to draw antifreeze into the system for winterizing and stick it into my external container.  In my case, a 5 gal. water cooler.  Then simply set the "Winterize" valve to "On" and the "Use" valve to "On" and all others set to "Off".  Turn on the pump and away it goes.  Absolutely NO plumbing needed except to lengthen my winterizing hose so it would reach the container.  My system pumped in at a rate of about 1 GPM (took 5 minutes to empty 5 gal. container).  I don't know if that is fast enough for everyone, but it works for me.  The only issue which could affect some is my city water inlet check valve leaked and water trickled out.  So, I just put the cap on.

 

[DearMissMermaid]

Here is a simple cheap solution, a battery operated water pump. 

It's all made up, ready to go, just pop in 2 D batteries.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HEBR3I?ie=UTF8&tag=recreationalvehicles-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000HEBR3I

I would post a picture, but I can't remember how to do that here, there isn't a button on the post-reply form.  :-\

 

[Mexray]

Here's a pic of our 'improved' water works transfer system...

I mounted a 115VAC, three chamber (similar to a 12 VDC RV pump), with a moisture proof switch box and grounded plug...now I only have to run an extension cord from the genny to the pump - lots easier that my other 12 VDC pump, and the AC version pumps 3.3 GPM, much better/quicker that the 12 VDC unit...

If you look closely, you can see the brass quick disconnects I use on all our fresh water hoses - I get em' from Harbor Freight - makes it easy to hook up hoses in the dark, no cross threading... ???

As mentioned before, I carry a 50 gallon poly Ag tank with us when we're boondocking or in a camp that only has water faucets available (no hook ups)...I usually can't get the tank high enough for gravity draining into the TT, so this new pump will transfer the water easier... :

I can now save the 12 VDC pump to power our portable tankless/propane water heater when we're in one place for an extended period - outside showers in the forest are great, and the bath in the TT is spared the mess...

Ray

 

[FrontrangeRVer]

[quote author=Molaker]
The only thing I had to do was connect up the hose like I was going to draw antifreeze into the system for winterizing and stick it into my external container.  In my case, a 5 gal. water cooler.  Then simply set the "Winterize" valve to "On" and the "Use" valve to "On" and all others set to "Off".  Turn on the pump and away it goes.  Absolutely NO plumbing needed except to lengthen my winterizing hose so it would reach the container.  My system pumped in at a rate of about 1 GPM (took 5 minutes to empty 5 gal. container).  I don't know if that is fast enough for everyone, but it works for me.  The only issue which could affect some is my city water inlet check valve leaked and water trickled out.  So, I just put the cap on.
[/quote]


There you go!

 

[700renegade]

My old newmar will work just as Molaker said - turn the one valve to 'tank fill' and suck thru the antifreeze hose if I needed to do this.  I assume most MH's will be set up this same way.  I love the simplicity of this solution - nothing to buy or reconfigure with the exception of a slightly longer suction hose.

I haven't checked it, but I bet the drain port 'thing' on my 48 quart cooler would be just about the right OD to accept that rubber suction hose too.  2 guys on each end of the cooler and you can move 12 gallons in a snap.  Even if you left the beer in it you could move a decent amount each time!

I was pondering this same concept on my last trip, and lo and behold here is the answer.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I assume most MH's will be set up this same way.

And you would be wrong.  In fact, most any RV design  assumption that starts with "all" will be wrong and even "most all" is iffy.  Different manufacturers design their rigs in different ways and even proven good ideas don't seem to be universal. For many years Fleetwood did not provide a winterizing input to the pump, while National RV, Newmar and others did.

 

[Jammer]

I have recently installed an 72 gallon pressure tank and a 55 gallon drum in my pickup bed, to use for freshwater and graywater, respectively, at an electric-only site where it is impractical to decamp due to congestion and where the water source and dump station are 200 yards away and uphill.  I have a utility pump to use for the wastewater, and the freshwater tank is pressurized (with maybe 55 gallons of water and 17 gallons of air).

 

[deal]

I picked up one of these for $5 CDN in a blowout bin. I have yet to use it but I had that purpose in mind when I bought it.

http://www.rona.ca/shop/~pump-drill-pump-wolfcraft-61015_!wolcraft_shop

 

[carson]

deal.... such a deal

 

[Rick kl]

My seasonal spot is almost impossible to get the trailer in and taking it the 1/2 mile to fill up was just not practical so I solved the problem with two 5 gallon containers laying on their sides connected together with 1/2 inch fittings and a hose connection , I put a valve in between the two jugs then used a white RV hose with a valve to the water tap. I put this rig on top of my Trailblazer, then I close the valve at the water tap then drive over to my unit and put the hose in my water receptacle on my camper  gravity does the work no need for a pump . it takes about 3 trips when empty. 

(using the valve between the jugs allows me to fill one at a time from the bottom its a lot faster that way)

 

[Theberrys]

This pump and a drill motor will do what you want. $15.00
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-drill-powered-pump-98384.html