Alaska with the Brewer's 06

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Day 13, June 5, 2006  Fort Nelson, British Columbia, Canada

We departed Dawson Creek and headed North on the Alaskan Highway.  Today  I learned how to use the Milepost guidebook and it sat on my lap the entire 6 hour drive.  Every hill and dale and river and hamburger joint is listed along the way.  Interesting tidbits of history are thrown in as well as a commentary on the local flora and fauna.  I was able to read aloud to Terry as a tour guide as he drove.  Not far into our trip we took a bit of a side tour to the Kiskatinaw River Bridge.  It is the only original timber bridge from the Alcan Highway construction still in use.  It is 531 feet long, curved and high.  I walked over it to get pictures of the motorhome driving over it.  We were safe as it has a 25 ton pound limit as we only weigh about 20 tons.(now he tells me)
The scenery would have been considered boring today except for thinking of those men who worked so hard to carve a road down this swath of forest.  The road today is thankfully cleared of trees about 50 to100 yards across.  This gave us a chance to see above the tree line and to watch carefully for animals that might dart out in front of us.  We crossed down a 10% grade. We passed several Natural Gas drilling operations and saw a multitude of forest service industries and logging operations working.  When we arrived at Fort Nelson at around 3:30 Ned and Lorna were here and had saved us a place here in the Bluebell RV Park.  As it had drizzled and/or  rained most of the day I can now understand why all other travel journals I?ve read, speak so much about car washes.  Our rigs are trashed with mud, dirt, dust and gunk.

First stop was to the Visitor Information Center.  Here we were given interesting prospects for afternoon activities and we toured the Fort Nelson Heritage Museum and attended an evening slide show with talks from two local residents.  One gal has lived here 25 years and told of the scenery and changes over the years.  The other guy works as a forester and spoke of the timber industry and explained why this area is so good for raising trees.  He described how Aspens and Spruce intermingle in the forests, which was ever so apparent in our drive today. This would be a beautiful fall color place near mid September when leaves change.
He spoke of the OSB made in the local big mill mostly from Aspen or cottonwood trees.  It is a kind of pressed particleboard. He explained why drilling for Natural gas (quite prevalent in Northern British Columbia) has such a short drilling season.  It is normally done only in winter months because when the ground thaws, all heavy equipment will sink up to the roof.  The are finding ways to make wooden roads and platforms so natural gas can be pumped for longer time periods to meet the demand.  Since the talks were held at the local movie theatre, when it was 8:00 the movie was about to begin so the talks abruptly stopped.  We were hungry for a pizza and visited a chain restaurant called Boston Pizza.  The sign outside said ?Help Wanted.?  They were very busy and badly in need of extra help.  The waiter explained to us it is very hard to get any help in this town for low paying jobs, as a high school drop out can earn $20 per hour working in one of the Pumping camps.  It feels like winter here to me.  A planned stop tomorrow will be a soak in Liard Hot Springs to warm up. This trip is fascinating and informative and I am so glad to share it with all of you who are reading it.
Statistics;
Motorhome Miles driven: 279
Fuel fill up: 56.5 gallons  Cost per gallon  $3.36 (US)Thanks JamesOne for the conversion table.
Temperature:  High 51      Low 40      Rain, drizzle all day
Wildlife sightings: 1 red tailed hawk, one dead elk along the road,  several deer along the road.
One white stuffed Moose in the Museum (does it count?)
 

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JamesOne said:
I would like to add this park to my file of parks with free wifi but I can't find a web site for them. If you have any spare time would you ask if they have a web site and what the URL of it is.

Sorry James, We were out of there before I got your request.  I will however dig through all of my brochures, maybe one is listed.  By the way which Caravan company did you choose?  We have the flyers from the major companies and are trying to duplicate the activities they listed as we are the basic tourist at heart. If we know which one you are on, we'll check to see if our paths may cross. This is a beautiful part of the world.
Betty
 
James,

Mile 0 Campground doesn't have a web site, but I would include it anyway as the WiFi service there is excellent.
 
I'm not sure road kill and stuffed animals count as wildlife sightings .... unless it's something really, really unusual like a Woolly Mammoth.
 
Day ?14 ? June 6, 2006 ?Fort Nelson to Liard Hot Springs, British Columbia, Canada

Today was another of those ?pinch me is this real?? days. ?Once again Russ, Ned and Lorna beat us on the
road by 1-? hours. We continued down the Alaskan Highway with fresh new information from our forester last night and the mix of trees in the forest was even more apparent today. ?Spruce and Aspen make a good color combination. ?We also noted many landslide areas along the road and very rocky hillsides with many ?Rocks on the Road ?signs. We followed rivers rushing down the road beside us. ?The section around the crystal clear turquoise Muncho Lake was one of the most difficult in the highway?s construction because so much rock had to be carved out along the lake. ?It resulted in a spectacular drive that would have been even better, I think, had it not been pouring rain. ?Even so the scenery is awesome. ?The wildlife was abundant today. ?We saw a deer run across our lanes. ? We caught a glimpse of a caribou run across the road and up into the brush. We saw a moose. ?I?m sorry my camera does not have the zoom capacity as Terry?s new one and that the photo I share of the moose is so far away. ?Despite his distance for you to see , he was thrilling for me to see along the road. ?Maybe I will learn to use the ?good? camera but not in that nano second you have to snap an animal! ? Then the Stone mountain sheep appeared and Terry got his hands on his camera. ?See how much better he looks up close with that zoom? ?Then we saw buffalo. ?WOW!
I don?t know what I expected of Canada and British Columbia in particular but this is beautiful country. ?Perhaps it is because it is my first time to see it or that I had no expectations, but it is clear it will be a do over trip for me! ?
When we do it over, we will be better informed. We want to tell you about Liard Hot Springs. ?This is a not to miss event but it would have been better if we had dry camped in the Liard Hot Springs Provincial Park for $17 dollars per night that included the $5.00 fee to soak in the mineral areas. ?Instead we got into the ? electric and water campground directly across the street Liard Hot Springs Lodge for $32.10 a night and very poor power as they generate their own. ?The lady at the Provincial Park told us big rigs would have been given the bus parking spaces and you can park there for the night. ?There is also a big parking lot across the street you could just pull up, park and go for a soak and then drive on your way. ?Many people do this, as there is not much else here at the springs to do and believe me a 40-minute soak cured all my aches and I could not have taken another minute. ?This is the hottest water I?ve ever been in. ?The mineral pools are in theirs natural setting with a gravel bottom and so pretty with all of the lush greenery around it. ?At one end you can sit on a bench and a waterfall gives your back a good massage.

The tour book says the weather can change here faster than anyplace in Canada. ?Within 5 minutes a storm can blow in dark rain clouds, it will pour rain and in 10 minutes the sun is shining. ?We?ve had a t least 3 of those scenarios since we arrived at 1:30 today. ?We are not seeing nearly as many of the ?Class C type rental RV?s we saw in Jasper but now we are seeing lots of 5th wheels and bigger motor homes with toads. According to the sign- in books in the tourist offices, most are headed for Alaska. ?Tomorrow we head for Watson Lake, home of the Signpost Forests.

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles driven: 190 ?(didn?t even unhook the car)
Temperatures: ?High 55 ?low 39
Wildlife sightings: ?deer, caribou, moose, mountain sheep, buffalo
Camping Cost: ?$32.10 ?for One night ?Electric/water


 

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ArdraF said:
.? One of the funniest memories I have of our last trip to Alaska was that everytime we pulled into a campground, Jerry would hopefully raise the satellite dish.? As soon as it went up, a group of men would suddenly appear and all had the same question, "Did you get a signal here?"? Of course, none of us did.? Looking on the bright side, no satellite usage gave us more time to enjoy nature and the various attractions.?ArdraF

Ardra,
Funny you should mention it,  men have already asked that question!  I must admit I've become somewhat addicted to my internet connections as I like to keep in touch.  But the nature at nights give me a chance to compose my photos and journal and read ahead in The Milepost.
Betty
 
Ardra,

You were looking for TV, we're looking for internet.  Russ and we are on the Horizons1 satellite at 127W so have a much better chance of connecting as along as we can see it.  DirecTV just isn't available this far north with an 18" dish so we don't even try.
 
We are online via the satellite for the first time since Grand Cache, AB. We are in a roadside rest area 44 miles west of Watson Lake, YT. Terry is now out of range of his satellite and Ned has a burnt out upper control board, so I am much beloved.
 
Day 15 ? June 7, 2006 ? ?Liard Hot Springs to Just past Watson Lake ? 1062.7 km

Today a pleasant 3-hour drive was made more exciting by our wildlife sightings. ?First thing out of the campgrounds we spotted a buffalo lazing on a hillside just watching the Rv?ers pass by. ? Not long after that a red fox crossed across in front of us and then with little warning Terry spotted a BIG bear grazing up along the hillside. ?I hope he got some good shots as he was able to pull over to the side of road and we watched her for several moments. ?Then we spotted a deer watching us along the road. ? She looked like she wanted to dart right in front of us but Terry sounded the air horn and she hopped away like a kangaroo into the woods saving us all. ?Then another red fox was seen running across the road and they are so fast there is no chance of any camera action. It was a beautiful day with lovely mountain forest scenery and rivers to follow and small lakes to pass by. ?

We stopped for a photo at the entry to Yukon Territory.
We fueled up at a convenient station just into Watson Lake and despite the trucker?s discount we were given, paid the most for fuel we have ever paid. ?Diesel fuel calculated at $3.93 per gallon US.

Upon entering Watson Lake we met up with Russ, Ned and Lorna and toured the infamous Signpost Forest. We searched for the RV Forum sign we thought had been posted there but we did not have all day! ?We visited the new Northern Lights Center and watched an entertaining technological experience on the Northern Lights and another on the size of the Universe. ?It is bigger than I thought!

Then we drove off in search of the perfect boon docking spot. ?Found one at KM 1062.7 for future traveler reference. ?Pretty sight right by the Lower Rancheria River. ? ?We are settled for the night and I feel so fortunate to have the ability to do this trip!

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 178
Temperature: ? High 62 ? ? ? Low ?44 ?Clear all day.
Wildlife sightings:deer, buffalo, bear, red fox, chipmunk, Canadian jay,seagull
Camping costs: $0
? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Diesel fuel costs per gallon: ?$3.93 ?We took on 84 gallons. ?(Bean soup for dinner tonight) :)

 

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By the way which Caravan company did you choose?

We are signed on with Adventure Caravans. It appears we will be on much the same route you are taking.
 
Since the RV Forum sign was was unfound, were you able to leave a fresh one?  Still enjoying riding along with you.  Our own New England trip may very well get flooded out.  Currently we are trapped.
 
Smoky said:
Since the RV Forum sign was was unfound, were you able to leave a fresh one?? ?Still enjoying riding along with you.?

Smoky,
Glad you are enjoying the ride along.  No we are sorry that we did not have a sign to post at the forest.  It would have been a fun thing to do just to find a place for a new sign.  You would have to bring a long ladder.  There was good parking in the visitors lot for all 3 of our rigs and we did not have to unhook.  A fun place to spend a couple of hours.
Betty
 
JamesOne said:
We are signed on with Adventure Caravans. It appears we will be on much the same route you are taking.

James,
We will look for you!

Betty
 
I always thought Alaska was the most rugged of all RV trips.  But your reports seem to confirm that roads have improved there considerably over recent years.  Maybe the Admiral and I are on the toughest route.  There has been nothing but rain and flooding in the North Country of NY state and even worse in New England where we are headed.  Today we are in danger of being trapped here as the CG entrance is an old dirt road with two flooded swamps on either side trying to flood across the dirt road into each other.  We are watching the weather reports each hour, both satellite, local TV and Internet.
 
Day 16? ?June 8, 2006? ?Dry camp at km 1062.7 to Teslin Lake? ?Mukluk Annie?s? Yukon,Canada

Today we experienced a case of ?severe clear? (as Ron Ruward would put it).? We had blue skies, beautiful scenery, and animal sightings of a bear.? We crossed back and forth from British Columbia to The Yukon a few times as the road wound it?s way down snow capped mountains and mirror like lakes.? Today was the day you see the places where picture post cards are taken.? ? ?Terry did make note of the fact that so far The Yukon should be called ? the land of the potholes.?? Russ was in the lead and he called out the potholes on the CB radio much like the trip leaders on a caravan.? I wondered if he and Terry had been drinking, such was their wandering all over the road to avoid them.? Then we came to a 7km section of construction with? gravel. Now I? ?know why it is the law in The Yukon to drive during the day with your headlights.? The dust was incredible.

We stopped for photos at an information kiosk just before the town of Teslin. In the distance we could see the Nisutlin Bay Bridge, the longest water span of any bridge on the Alaska Highway. (1917 feet.) We visited the George Johnston Museum. He was an innovative Tlingit man who purchased the first car for the area despite having NO roads in the community.? It was a 1928 Chevrolet and is very nicely restored in the museum.? The museum display ceremonial robes and trade goods of the Tlingit Indians.? A video, produced by an ancestor of George Johnston, shown in the museum shed light of a different nature on the impact of the building of the Alaskan Highway. When the white man and soldiers came, they brought diseases for which these native Indians had no immunity.? Many all of them died of measles and influenza.? Off duty soldiers were also given free license to hunt the grounds and shot bear for sport.? Not good things.? We stopped for a look at the Tlingit Heritage Center with its Totem Pole Carvings out front.

Mukluk Annie?s was our next stop.? This is where expectations of a trip come into play.? Terry had heard for years about the Free camping here if you ate at the salmon Bake. He has talked about it for days.? Well, when we arrived this year, the rules had changed and it was $10.00 to boon dock.? We stayed anyway after a brief search of the area did not turn up anything better and Russ could get online here in the parking lot.? We astutely chose not to park up close to the cliff where the view might have been better but we noted the ground looked a bit soft.? We watched later in the evening as the owner pulled out a pickup with a fifth wheel buried to his axels in the soft dirt. We ventured into the place for a meal but it was too hot inside and so we wandered back home for a quick meal inside.? No salmon bake. The evening was finished off with a lovely boat ride for $5.00.? We fed the seagulls and enjoyed the warmth of the day.? The sun will not completely set until almost midnight and they tell me it gets like dusk until 2am when it gets light again.? I?m glad to have put that silver colored bubble stuff over the bedroom windows to keep it dark.? Tomorrow will be Whitehorse.? We are still not in Alaska.?

Statistics:
Motorhome Miles Driven: 122
Temperature:? ?High 70? ? ? ? Low? 44
Wildlife sightings: bear, rabbit, seagulls
Camping costs: $10 to boon dock at Mukluk Annies
Fuel:? We noted fuel prices were about 5 cents a liter cheaper outside of Watson Lake. It would? have saved us some money if we could have waited.? Who knew?

 

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Hi

Did you guys manage to get sorted with Toursaver books yet (available Carrs/Safeway customer service desk)

So far we have saved around $200, with several more savings due at Fairbanks this weekend (El Dorado $30, Riverboat $47, Gold Dredge 8 & meal $35, plus several small things adding to around $25).

We expect to have saved $330 with our $100 book - which we have just sold for $50.

We've just enjoyed a pleasant evening at the Cabin Nite in Denali, which we got half-price at $26 each - excellent value.

I would actually suggest finding the telephone number for the Safeway in Fairbanks to see if they have several of the books available. Then, I would pre-book the excursions before you get there as I believe they are filling fast - just tell them you are using toursaver coupon, they dont need anything else, but obviously c/card details, then the coupon when you actually collect tickets.

We had loads of rafting, river float, flightseeing, horseback, hiking, bike, atv, boat tour excursions remaining in our book after we finished with it, so your savings could be far higher than ours if those things interest you.

Paul

 
Here's a picture of the bear we saw, probably the same one you did.
 

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Betty:

Who knew?  Well we know now!!  Many of us will be saving your trip log because of the indespensable "rudders" it contains.  Where to camp or boondock, where to eat, where to buy gass, wehre to go.

What is the story behind those totem poles by the road in the photo?
 
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