stvaughn
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- Aug 24, 2016
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How do you like the hitch? Does it adequately control sway? Pros or cons?
Thanks, Steve
Thanks, Steve
Andersen WD (chain) hitch questions
- Thread starter stvaughn
- Start date
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Pros: quiet, clean, compact, lightweight, serviceable...as advertised it beats all others on these features. You also have the ability to fine tune the WD based on your load by adding/removing a fraction of a thread (more finer grain than adding/removing a link on a tension bar system)
Cons:
1. It uses a single mechanism based on tongue weight to control sway (others have independent WD and anti-sway mechanisms) so if you are towing long and heavy it isn't going to work for you.
2. If you cannot straighten the TV-TT before unhitching you have to go through a straightening procedure before you can hook up. I have this problem backing into my driveway so I remove it before starting. Never had this issue in a campground though.
3. The chains really pull the brackets towards the hitch (because they are replicating what a tension bar, lever, would do). On my frame I cannot get the lower part to stay in place after installation and it can slide forward 1/8-1/2" after I first hook-up/tow. This is critical because each turn of the 1/4" pitch adjusting bolt is significant and you only have 4-6 threads to use. You also need to ensure each chain is equal length so if one bracket slides more than the other you need to compensate.
#3 is the killer for me and why I might switch WDHs. I mark where the brackets are supposed to be and adjust the chain tension by measuring the effective chain length after hooking up so it makes the hooking up process more difficult. I have to keep an eye on it when traveling because it has slipped mid trip.
Cons:
1. It uses a single mechanism based on tongue weight to control sway (others have independent WD and anti-sway mechanisms) so if you are towing long and heavy it isn't going to work for you.
2. If you cannot straighten the TV-TT before unhitching you have to go through a straightening procedure before you can hook up. I have this problem backing into my driveway so I remove it before starting. Never had this issue in a campground though.
3. The chains really pull the brackets towards the hitch (because they are replicating what a tension bar, lever, would do). On my frame I cannot get the lower part to stay in place after installation and it can slide forward 1/8-1/2" after I first hook-up/tow. This is critical because each turn of the 1/4" pitch adjusting bolt is significant and you only have 4-6 threads to use. You also need to ensure each chain is equal length so if one bracket slides more than the other you need to compensate.
#3 is the killer for me and why I might switch WDHs. I mark where the brackets are supposed to be and adjust the chain tension by measuring the effective chain length after hooking up so it makes the hooking up process more difficult. I have to keep an eye on it when traveling because it has slipped mid trip.
OP
OP
stvaughn
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2016
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Thanks for replying massspike. Con #1, what is your length and weight and are you satisfied with the sway control? #2 I understand. #3 , could that issue be solved by drilling and tapping a 1/4? stop bolt in the frame to prevent the bracket from slipping?
stvaughn said:
24 foot trailer (28 foot total), 7000lb GVWR -- when it is hooked up properly it works great but sometimes I have to stop along the roadside and re-adjust. My 850lb tongue weight puts me close to the effective limit for my truck (F150 with >1600 lbs of payload). fwiw: I wouldn't tow longer/heavier with the TV I have with any WDH.
Yes I have thought of doing that -- some people even weld them in place. The challenge is getting it installed perfectly before locking it in. I am not a huge fan of their installation instructions since they assume the tolerances are bigger than I think they are.
OP
OP
stvaughn
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2016
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Thanks for sharing your experience. I?ve got mine on order. Once I get it hooked up I?ll take it for a test drive and see how the brackets shift. Then I?ll adjust it and stop drill it.
Steve
Steve
I'm on my second year with mine. Trailer is 28'ball to bumper, right at 700# tongue weight. It controls sway lots better than my old friction bar type and I haven't had a problem with the brackets slipping. I have them bolted together and the set screw in per their directions. It transfers the weight real well, too. I'm totally happy with it.
As far as not being able to hook up if it's not straight in line, it hasn't been a problem for me. The plate will move enough just by tightening up the chains with a socket and ratchet before you let all the weight back down on the ball.
As far as not being able to hook up if it's not straight in line, it hasn't been a problem for me. The plate will move enough just by tightening up the chains with a socket and ratchet before you let all the weight back down on the ball.
I am a huge fan of the Andersen WD. I started with an EZ Lift tension bar setup on my Passport 2400BH. Then wanted to improve so got an Equalizer. Worked well, but noisy and heavy. Got the Andersen and have not looked back.
Passport 2400BH was 6800# gross and 710# on the tongue.
I now have recently acquired a 2020 Rockwood 2911BS Ultralite. 1010# tongue weight and 8400# gross.
I added the Roadmaster Active Suspension (Absolutely AMAZING product!) to handle the additional tongue weight on my 2016 F150 SCREW with 3.5EB. Truck is at max of capacity; actually 80# over on my rear axle. Andersen shifted 460# off of the tongue split pretty evenly to the front axle and trailer axles.
Truck pulls it well and the hitch does what it is supposed to. I can certainly tell I am pulling a ton more weight and 6' more trailer, but it does it with ease.
Now, I will say this, the trailer does not sway until a 30mph crosswind hits it. And then its more of a unified movement not so much sway. Sway is when the trailer wiggles side to side while the tow vehicle moves in a forward straight fashion. With the hitch properly adjusted now the TV and trailer sort of move as one. Your butt cheeks will still chew the seat, but its much easier and safer to control when reaction is required. THIS IS KEY! Reaction with an inferior or improperly adjusted system is what can be dangerous and typically results in catastrophe.
I drilled the 7/16" hole and used the set screw the supply to anchor the brackets and they have NEVER moved.
I did have an issue with the teflon sleeve that the ball rides in creeping up TOO MUCH. Called Andersen and within a week, had their updated design.
With all of that said.....I do feel as if the Equalizer would have an edge on the longer/heavier trailers, but the Pros of the Anderson win out for me and I have no issue. On my F150, I am tight on my payload, so weight savings is a big deal. The Equalizer is 4x the weight of the Andersen.
I will say, that for my Passport 2400BH, it was a magnificent setup. As it stands now, with this new Rockwood, the Andersen is maxed IMO. I have no adjustment left. I had 4 additional threads with the Passport.
Passport 2400BH was 6800# gross and 710# on the tongue.
I now have recently acquired a 2020 Rockwood 2911BS Ultralite. 1010# tongue weight and 8400# gross.
I added the Roadmaster Active Suspension (Absolutely AMAZING product!) to handle the additional tongue weight on my 2016 F150 SCREW with 3.5EB. Truck is at max of capacity; actually 80# over on my rear axle. Andersen shifted 460# off of the tongue split pretty evenly to the front axle and trailer axles.
Truck pulls it well and the hitch does what it is supposed to. I can certainly tell I am pulling a ton more weight and 6' more trailer, but it does it with ease.
Now, I will say this, the trailer does not sway until a 30mph crosswind hits it. And then its more of a unified movement not so much sway. Sway is when the trailer wiggles side to side while the tow vehicle moves in a forward straight fashion. With the hitch properly adjusted now the TV and trailer sort of move as one. Your butt cheeks will still chew the seat, but its much easier and safer to control when reaction is required. THIS IS KEY! Reaction with an inferior or improperly adjusted system is what can be dangerous and typically results in catastrophe.
I drilled the 7/16" hole and used the set screw the supply to anchor the brackets and they have NEVER moved.
I did have an issue with the teflon sleeve that the ball rides in creeping up TOO MUCH. Called Andersen and within a week, had their updated design.
With all of that said.....I do feel as if the Equalizer would have an edge on the longer/heavier trailers, but the Pros of the Anderson win out for me and I have no issue. On my F150, I am tight on my payload, so weight savings is a big deal. The Equalizer is 4x the weight of the Andersen.
I will say, that for my Passport 2400BH, it was a magnificent setup. As it stands now, with this new Rockwood, the Andersen is maxed IMO. I have no adjustment left. I had 4 additional threads with the Passport.
