The subject heater is installed in my 1996 Holiday Rambler. It's the original install with a cardboard enclosure and insulation surrounding the water tank. Today I attempted to start the heater using the switch in the RV. The ignition went on and I could hear the gas ignite. Shortly thereafter the heater kicked off. I attempted to restart several times with no luck. All the wires appeared to be connected properly on the front of the heater. I removed/cleaned those I could get at and tried again with no luck. For whatever reason, I opened the cupboard where the heater is located and saw that the cardboard cover was thoroughly wet. I checked all the connections going into and out of the heater as well as all the other water connections in the cupboard. None were wet/damp. I can only assume that the tank itself sprung a leak and that is what is keeping the heater from working. Anyone ever seen this problem. Any thoughts before I go out and purchase a replacement heater. Thanks.
Atwood G6A-8E water heater problem
- Thread starter Phrog
- Start date
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Rene T
Site Team
It's possible some bugs have created a nest inside the pipe which the gas flows through to reach the flame. Remove it and clean it out real good.
Gary RV_Wizard
Site Team
If "shortly" is several seconds, the problem is that the flame detector did not sense a successful ignition so the controller board shut off the gas supply. The flame detector is also the igniter - the same tip serves both functions.
Since yours was lit OK, the problem may be that the sensor itself is bad or that the wire back to the controller has some corrosion and the flame sense signal isn't getting through. It's a very low voltage and easily stopped. Try disconnecting the wire to the igniter/sensor and cleaning the connection. Sometimes just slipping it on/off a few times does the trick, but a pencil eraser makes a good cleaner too.
It's conceivable that the sensor itself is bad or out of position, but since the burner lights OK that is a fairly low probability. Not expensive to replace, though.
Since yours was lit OK, the problem may be that the sensor itself is bad or that the wire back to the controller has some corrosion and the flame sense signal isn't getting through. It's a very low voltage and easily stopped. Try disconnecting the wire to the igniter/sensor and cleaning the connection. Sometimes just slipping it on/off a few times does the trick, but a pencil eraser makes a good cleaner too.
It's conceivable that the sensor itself is bad or out of position, but since the burner lights OK that is a fairly low probability. Not expensive to replace, though.
Thanks for the info. I'll give both a try. However, now that the cardboard cover is starting to dry out, I'm concerned that once I take the heater off of bypass, the possible leak will start again. Any thoughts on that issue before I refill the tank?
I would check the inlet and the outlet of the water tanks. On mine here is a plastic fitting with threads on both ends. One side gets threaded into the water tank and the other to a water line. The end that is threaded into the water tank leaked on mine as the pipe thread sealent hardened over time. I took both of them off, cleaned them, and used new pipe thread sealant. It took care of the leaks.
Phrog said:
Phrog
A "Spark and Sense Electrode" that needs to be cleaned. (or replaced), will cause that.
http://www.automotivepartsfactory.com/p/Atwood-93868-Spark-and-Sense-Electrode-103610331.html?gclid=CJftvYGsrNQCFQctaQodsPMKlA
BTW a leak in the water heater tank is totally a different problem, (unrelated to the firing of the propane burner), and is far harder, (and more expensive), to fix.
OK. I tried the advice from the first 2 replies to my post. The gas pipe is clear. I cleaned the wire connection to the igniter/sensor. Filled the tank (doesn't appear to be any leakage at the moment).
Anyway, I turned on the heater. The gas ignited and the heater ran for about 10 min and then went into lockout. Ran long enough for the water to get luke warm. Subsequent attempts to start the heater resulted in lockout after about 5-7 seconds after ignition. This is exactly what happened 2 days ago when I first attempted to run the heater. It's been off since Monday afternoon. Does that sound like it's the spark and sense electrode mentioned by mel s?
Anyway, I turned on the heater. The gas ignited and the heater ran for about 10 min and then went into lockout. Ran long enough for the water to get luke warm. Subsequent attempts to start the heater resulted in lockout after about 5-7 seconds after ignition. This is exactly what happened 2 days ago when I first attempted to run the heater. It's been off since Monday afternoon. Does that sound like it's the spark and sense electrode mentioned by mel s?
Phrog said:
Phrog
Have you cleaned the connections to the water heater control board?
However, given your description of the problem, I suspect your spark and sense electrode needs to be replaced.
I believe this one fits your Atwood G6A-8E water heater: https://ergode.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=160470&gclid=CJu4zpTssNQCFQUEaQodz6wNxA
BTW most RV parts and repair places have "board testers"... and some test electronic control boards at no charge.
Cleaned everything as best I could as I'm on the road with the RV. Still didn't last more than 10 min before lockout. Went online and ordered the electrode. Should be at my home tomorrow, so I'll see if that solves the problem.
BTW, ordered the electrode from Amazon ($19 and free shipping with prime) for anyone else who might need one and has prime membership. Saves a buck or two.
Will respond after I install the electrode.
Thanks
BTW, ordered the electrode from Amazon ($19 and free shipping with prime) for anyone else who might need one and has prime membership. Saves a buck or two.
Will respond after I install the electrode.
Thanks
