Battery over-charged

[Bugford]

I'm on my second battery in a year. The first one overcharged and I think that's what caused it to finally die. But I bought a second one thinking that maybe it really was just the battery's fault. But now the second battery is doing the same thing. My question is, is the thing in the picture what is controlling the juice that goes to the battery from the solar panel? And if so how do I replace it. Thanks in advance

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Yep, that's the box controlling the charge current from the panels. Odds are high this isn't the problem unless a separately connected meter indicates extended overvoltage. That's hard to do with solar panels, they only produce peak output a few hours a day.

What "same thing" is happening to the second battery?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Isaac-1]

On top of what Mark said that is a very small solar charge controller, my guess is 3 amps or less, maybe 5 amps

 

[John From Detroit]

Are you plugged in? IF so what is your main converter or if you can not find it the power distribution panel double down on that panel if both fuses and circuit breakers are behind the same access panel.

 

[Bugford]

I'm an idiot when it comes to anything electric. This is my panel box. Is the converter maybe behind this?

 

[Bugford]

Are you plugged in? IF so what is your main converter or if you can not find it the power distribution panel double down on that panel if both fuses and circuit breakers are behind the same access panel.

Yep, that's the box controlling the charge current from the panels. Odds are high this isn't the problem unless a separately connected meter indicates extended overvoltage. That's hard to do with solar panels, they only produce peak output a few hours a day.

What "same thing" is happening to the second battery?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

The reason I thought it may be solar is it only happens during bright sunshine, and it also happens in storage. But Im open to anything.

 

[Isaac-1]

You have a Wifco 8955, here is a link to a youtube video on replacing the board out of one if it turns out to be the issue

Also note Progressive Dynamics makes a better quality replacement board for the Wifco units see PD4600-Converter - Progressive Dynamics

 

[HueyPilotVN]

It sounds like the problem is not the charger section of the WFCO 8955. however if it is I have good working charger section for the WFCO 8955 that I changed out for one that has the Lithium auto detect feature.

I put it in the box that the lithium one was in and kept it in case anyone needed it.

Check or have someone check the output voltage of the charger to the battery.

If there is no voltage you are welcome to it for free, I will even send it to you.

If you have charging voltage to the battery then a new charger section will not help.

If he does not need it and anyone else does than just let me know.


Here is a link to the procedure when I changed it out.

Changing WFCO to charge Lithium

I started this modification a few months back and then figured it was not worth changing until I found out how easy it is. The current convertor/charger is a WFCO 8955 and it will charge the lithium battery to almost 100% and the 400 watts of dedicated solar should top it off. However, the...

www.rvforum.net

 

[HueyPilotVN]

I just looked at a close up of the picture of his convertor and it has the auto detect for Lithium, (WFCO 8955 AD)

Maybe it is stuck on 14.4 volts. Does he have Lithium or lead acid?

Measure the output voltage going to your battery from the charger.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

The conclusion is they're overcharging but no supporting information. I'd be hesitant to replace anything until I knew for sure what the symptoms were surrounding battery failure.

Is this the stock 50W panel that comes with the Forest River trailer or is there more? A 50W panel would have a hard enough time just keeping up with self discharge much less overcharge anything but a very small storage battery.

Overcharge has some readily observed conditions so if it's actually overcharge then it would be straightforward to isolate the source, converter or controller.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

As Mark says, there is no conclusive evidence of overcharging so far - just conjecture. Certainly that 13.8v on the solar side alone isn't going to overcharge anything, especially at the measly 3A or so it might supply. But maybe in combination with the WFCO 8955? Need to measure voltage at the batteries under various conditions, i.e. WFCO-only charging, solar-only charging, and WFCO + solar charging both at peak sun and off-peak.

It will take sustained hours at 14.0 or more volts and a fairly high current (amp) rate to actually damage a lead acid battery.

 

[Bugford]

Thank you for the replies. So I think when we get back home I'll check and see if the voltage displayed is the same as when I test the battery alone. That way I have a starting place. Again, thanks for the help.

 

[Bugford]

Followup. We we got home, I looked at the solar controller and it showed 13.1 volts, and I checked the battery and it also said 13.1 volts. So I waited for a couple sunny days, and rechecked the battery, and it showed 17.2 volts. There is nothing charging the battery other than solar, and it gained 4 volts.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

If the WFCO is inactive (no shore power?), then it seems clear that solar controller isn't controlling anything. 17.2v sounds like it's direct from the solar panels.

 

[Bugford]

If the WFCO is inactive (no shore power?), then it seems clear that solar controller isn't controlling anything. 17.2v sounds like it's direct from the solar panels.

Should my next step be to change out the controller?

 

[Isaac-1]

I would charge controllers are relatively cheap these days.

 

[Mark_K5LXP]

Even if the controller was wonky and the panel was directly across the battery, the battery would have to be an open circuit (fried) to climb to over 17V with a 50W panel. There's still a missing piece of the puzzle here. Was the solar controller showing 13V at the same time the battery was 17V?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

 

[Bugford]

Even if the controller was wonky and the panel was directly across the battery, the battery would have to be an open circuit (fried) to climb to over 17V with a 50W panel. There's still a missing piece of the puzzle here. Was the solar controller showing 13V at the same time the battery was 17V?

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM

No, they both showed the same thing . Both 13, and later, both 17. And after checking the solar controller, I disconnected the battery before testing. I'm at a loss.

 

[Isaac-1]

Are you sure your volt meter is working right? I needed a multimeter a couple of days ago, grabbed a cheap $30 multi meter that was laying around, and quickly realized the readings were strange, so I grabbed a good Fluke meter out of the back of my car, and things suddenly started making sense, at first I thought it was just low batteries, but even after changing them the readings were still flaky, I really should throw it away, or at least give it to someone I don't like.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I kind of agree with Mark that there might well be something else involved, but that controller should not be passing 17+ volts under any circumstances I can think of. And since this has been going on awhile, it's quite possible that battery is "fried" (one or more cells shorted).

And while even the cheapest VOM ought to be able to read DC voltage accurately enough for this purpose, it wouldn't hurt to get a "second opinion" with another meter. Even another $5 Harbor Freight special.