Battery tie downs -- To Box or not to Box, that is the question...

[stormbytes]

I've added (2) 120-Watt solar panels to my Winnie, along with a GoPower PWM-25 charge controller. So far, everything is exactly as it should be with the only exception being the existing "deep cycle" Sears (DieReallyHard) battery crapping out. I suspect this is partly because the Sears batteries are junk, and partly the fault of my dated Magnetek transformer-type single-phase charger.

I'm correcting both. I'll be tearing out the Magnetek's charger module in favor of Progressive Dynamics 3-phase PD9245C. The DieHard's going the way of the dodo as well, to be replaced by (2) 6V Lifelines in series. I'll need to make modifications to the battery tie-down hardware, but luckily the 94' class-A Winnie has more then ample room for the extra battery behind the grill.

So my question -

Do I install battery boxes or do I go with a simple tie-down (open box or J-bolt) scheme?

I wonder because I know that temperature really affects lifetime and performance of any DC battery. I look at the black boxes and all I see is a thermos! I'm wondering if my desire to protect my $550 DC investment from the elements is misplaced where battery boxes are concerned.

** batteries would be installed outside the coach, in the engine compartment directly behind the front grill (so no venting issues). In motion, this is the ideal spot for venting and cooling.

 

[Lou Schneider]

The only real advantage to a box is if a cell springs a leak, the acid is contained instead of getting everything under the battery wet.

Make sure you have the battery resting on a solid surface - a piece of wood, etc. supporting the entire floor of the battery, not just a perimeter frame.

What's most important is protecting the posts, so a dropped wrench or a stray piece of metal doesn't short things out.  At least insulate the positive posts against shorting.