Broken Manifold Stud

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Eodvic

Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2010
Posts
23
I am getting ready for a long trip T(exas to North Carolina) on my recently purchased 1997 Winnebago Vectra 34. It has the Ford Chassis. I just realized that the rear Manifold stud on the passenger side is broken (the head). I did some research and I guess is not an uncommon problem. My question is, Is this something that I can wait to take care of once I get to North Carolina, or should I do it here. I normally would not even ask, and would just fix it now, but I am in a time crunch trying to get everything ready to relocate. Thanks for your input and advice.

Victor

Almost forgot! is this something that I should take to an RV mechanic or can my regular mechanic take care of it?
 
If you have someone you trust, have them fix it before you make the trip if at all possible.

Regular mechanic would be better.
 
I'm guessing it's a V10, are you getting a ticking sound on acceleration? If it's not to bad it can wait but you will have to put up with the noise. It can get expensive to fix because more will probably break when they remove the manifold, they well have to be drilled out and replaced with new studs.

Take it to a good mechanic not a RV tech, be sure and ask them if they have done it before.

Denny
 
'97?  If it's a Ford it's probably a 460 V8.  Different set of problems.  The exhaust manifold stud is easy to replace if you can get to it.  A real mechanic should be able to do it fairly quickly.
 
A broken manifold stud can be turned into a nightmare by an incompetent or greedy mechanic. It is a fairly straight forward repair for a competent, honest mechanic. Better to fix before you leave home than by some highway robber far from home. Generally accessible by removing wheel and inner fender panel. If anyone starts mentioning head removal run away.

Bill
 
I ran several thousand miles with a leaking exhaust manifold before I knew what the problem was.

We were on a trip cross country and I starting hearing a noise in the morning that went away after the engine warmed up.

Turned out to be the exhaust manifold bolts were broken, etc.

I don't think it will do any harm but you never know. Mine didn't hurt anything, just irritating and it got worse as time went on. 
 
I don't know about the 460, but a leaky exhaust manifold on a 454 will bake the valve cover gasket causing another set of problems.
 
kdbgoat said:
I don't know about the 460, but a leaky exhaust manifold on a 454 will bake the valve cover gasket causing another set of problems.

Can also heat soak and ultimately ruin starter. If the leak is near the oil filter, that can cause problems too

Bill
 
Cheap insurance to get it fixed before the trip. If an exhaust leak has already developed, or develops during the trip, more damage would be avoided.
Beside the fire hazard, don't forget that the exhaust manifold could warp with a broken stud. Adding to the cost of repairs when you get around to it. Assuming you make the trip safely. 
 
I did not see it on first look but mine are broken(2) at the back on the right side and have been since 2007. Very little signs of leakage and NO noise that can be heard. Fix it when I can but not an emergency for now, depends on the leak rate.
 
If just the head of the bolt is missing, it's a easy fix. Jack up the front of the coach. Support with jack stands. Remove the two "Y" pipe to manifold nuts. Then with the front of the coach raised, you can work over the top of the tire. Remove the manifold. All the manifold bolts are accessible with air tools. Tap the end of the broken bolt firmly with a hammer several time. Then use a stud remover or a pair of vice grips to unscrew the broken bolt. Have the manifold resurfaced. Buy the proper bolt/stud from Ford. It's pricey from Ford but It's designed for manifold service. Special metallurgy. Now put it back together with out a gasket.

Richard
 
On replacement of my Chevy gasket less manifolds, both were cracked as well as broken studs, I found the broken studs came out rather easy once manifold was out of the way. I bought after market manifolds from Autozone for a little over $100 each. They came with all, except the two middle, bolt holes enlarged so the stud could swim in the holes as the manifold expanded and contracted. On the original manifolds the manifold had each exhaust runner connected to the next cast iron webbing the webbing was cut between the ports by the manufacturer so the casting would better be able to stretch and contract with heat and cool down. I also ignored all the recommendations to go with no gasket, even Chevy recommended no gasket. Instead I used a thick, annealed copper gasket Annealed make a soft squish able surface. I then coated all sealing surfaces with a copper based neversieze, the head, both sides of the gasket and the manifold, as well as all the studs and bolts. Copper neversieze works better in high heat applications than aluminum neversieze, plus aluminum neversieze probably won't play well with copper anyway.

I haven't had any problems yet with 4500 miles on it.

Bill
 
William52 said:
I did not see it on first look but mine are broken(2) at the back on the right side and have been since 2007. Very little signs of leakage and NO noise that can be heard. Fix it when I can but not an emergency for now, depends on the leak rate.
  Did induction clean today and noticed very little leakage from broken stud area so repair is on back burner  And no sound.
 
When you do get it repaired. have your mechanic grind out the rear manifold hole to slot it a bit with a die grinder. That will allow a little room for the normal expansion and contraction that breaks the stud when the manifold overheats. It also helps to always let the engine idle for a few minutes after a hot run so the manifold cools somewhat slower with less heat soak from the head.
 
Rene T said:
Without a gasket?  :eek: ::)

Yes, with out a gasket. That's the way Ford & Chevy do it when new. No gasket means NO gasket to fail.

Richard
 
NY_Dutch said:
When you do get it repaired. have your mechanic grind out the rear manifold hole to slot it a bit with a die grinder. That will allow a little room for the normal expansion and contraction that breaks the stud when the manifold overheats. It also helps to always let the engine idle for a few minutes after a hot run so the manifold cools somewhat slower with less heat soak from the head.

Ford already over sized all but one hole. It's not the side shifting that breaks the bolt. It's the expansion/swelling that pills the bolt apart.

Richard
 
rls7201 said:
Yes, with out a gasket. That's the way Ford & Chevy do it when new. No gasket means NO gasket to fail.

Richard  My 2000 has gaskets on both sides? I believe its OE? No records of repairs and I have a lot of records from original owner.
 
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