Building an RV Garage

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I'm no expert, so this is not an informed opinion.  When we replaced our illegal cesspool with a legal septic system in rural SE Arizona, we were required to install a minimum 1000 gal. septic tank.  I have a hard time believing that 50 gal. of the same stuff that we flush down the toilet will overload our system.
 
It doesn't overload the system it stirs up the solids. The drain to the leach field extends down in the tank to take water out and solids float above as a cap slowly breaking down and settling to the bottom.
You don't want to break up the cap of solids and hae it going out to leach field..
 
Congrats! We we through this process last year and I know the excitement you feel. We have a fifth wheel, but same difference as far as storing. We have a metal "pole barn" style building, but we live in a rural area so it fits in with the surroundings. It is 30x50 feet dimensionally, 6" concrete floor, 16 walls. We installed a 14 foot door, an 8 foot door, and a man door all on the same end. I considered a door on each end, but because of the configuration of the property (sloped) it would have required. Lot more excavation work....$$$$$$, plus you lose any potential storage along a wall with a door. We put in two skylights, which is awesome for lighting, but during periods of the years with big temperature swings they will sweat and drip water to the floor. No biggie for us, but I could be for some. I had a 200 amp panel installed and I'm doing the internal wiring. The price for my situation between 100 and 200 amp panels was negligible. I mostly went with 200 amp because we are planning to have a well drilled and feed the power from this building, and I have a welder. I bought a pre-wired RV panel on line. It included  50 amp, a 30 amp, and a 125v ground fault receptacle. I wish I had installed a vent fan of some sort while the building was being built. Now I have to deal with these 16 foot walls, insulation, wiring. I also wish I had made provisions for a vent line for the generator exhaust. I like to run the generator occasionally during the winter, but it's a pain to pull it outside and I haven't had time to figure a good way to get exhaust gas thru the wall. I don't have a CO monitor installed in the building yet anyway. We have enough room to get the slides and awnings out, which makes it nice for maintenance of being able to be inside for various reasons. I chose to use overhead style doors so that I can install an opener in the future. Also, I have had plenty of experience with slider doors and I want no part of them. Between birds and wasps building nests in that exterior rolling hardware, and the need for adjusting the rollers occasionally, and again I have never had good experience with that style door. They are cheaper though. No water inside the building intentionally. I will use a hose from a yard hydrant outside when I need water. Wasn't planning on heating the building full time, so I didn't want busted pipe issues inside the building. I just wanted to pass along what we did, and didn't do. Good luck with your build!!
 
How much water does a garden tub or Jacuzzi hold? Just sayin'

Robert K said:
It doesn't overload the system it stirs up the solids. The drain to the leach field extends down in the tank to take water out and solids float above as a cap slowly breaking down and settling to the bottom.
You don't want to break up the cap of solids and hae it going out to leach field..

The inlet from the dwelling should be below that cap.

http://www.kingcounty.gov/depts/health/environmental-health/piping/onsite-sewage-systems/maintenance/how-OSS-works.aspx
 
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