Charging Question

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Gary RV_Wizard said:
Right, but rare is it that a breaker is designed solely for circuits that have batteries in them.  Look through the numerous brands of 12v breakers online and you won't find many that have any markings at all on the terminals.  Would you expect to find another breaker that is labeled for use with "converter" instead of battery?

Maybe the original came from a Harley shop.  Every one of those breakers I've gotten from Harley over the years has had both the aux/bat markings and different colored posts. 
Maybe that's why they're more expensive than the same thing from O'Reilly's.
 
Good morning.  Gary -  I was able to pull some numbers from the BCC and did a Google search.  I lucked out and found the exact Intellitec Service Manual for my Airstream.  http://www.mikerobotics.com/Intellitec/PDF/5300755000.pdf 

Per my Owner's Manual and the Intellitec manual, it should charge chassis batteries while on shore power and house batteries while running the engine.  It does neither nor has it for the year I have owned it.

There are some trouble shooting suggestions in the link above.  Fuses are all good.  The rest I need some schooling to understand better on the components and their testing.

One thought though - do you think the 30A breaker I replaced yesterday may be the culprit?  It could be the bidirectional link between the two systems.  Both battery banks are fully charged and I'm on shore power.  Is there an easy way to check?
 
The breaker you replaced is either closed or open (normally closed). If you have continuity through it, it is doing its job.  If in doubt about it, simply bypass it with a jumper wire across the terminals until you are sure.
At this point you don't know why the solenoid is not engaging. Need to take more measurements to see if the engagement power is going to the solenoid, if the solenoid engages if power supplied to it, if the batteries are reaching the voltage threshold of the BCC, and so on.

The Intelletec 800 BCC in my coach used to blow out a component on the circuit board if the current flow got too high. It could only handle a limited number of amps and if my battery bank got real low, enough current flowed to burn it out.  Happened every couple years.  I kept two boards and a technician buddy would solder a new component in one while I used the other. A new board was about $200, and after 4-5 years they were no longer available anyway. The required component was only a couple dollars, but my buddy's skills & labor was priceless!
An alternative to diagnose & repair is to add another charging path. A device such as Xantrex Eco Charge or the Trik-L-Start will provide chassis charging from the house system at a moderate price.  Charging house form alternator can be done by adding a parallel path via a battery isolator device, e.g. one something like this one.

https://www.etrailer.com/Battery-Chargers/Deka/DW08770.html
 
I'm assuming it is normally closed but the old one had no continuity between the posts.  The one I replaced it with does. 
 

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