Converter problem

[DRam]

On our last trip of the season we lost power to the 110v outlets that run through a GFI.  It turned out to be a short somewhere in the converter.

My assumption is that the converter is just a battery charger, and can be replaced by a charger located in the battery bay.  But, does the converter also directly power twelve volt items (lights, radio) when the 5th wheel is plugged into shore power?  If that is the case a battery charger would still work, but connections would be a little more complex.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Ron

 

[Alfa38User]

It turned out to be a short somewhere in the converter.

A converter 'converts' 120V to 12V to power 12V items AND charge the house batteries. If the other 120V sockets remained live and no Circuit Breaker popped, I am not sure how you arrived at that conclusion as GFI are only a part of the 120V power system. The converter may have been plugged into a GFI protected socket, it might be unusual, but you never know!!!

If a GFI pops and disables a number of sockets, it is generally a problem within the chain of 120V sockets attached to the GFI plug itself. Each GFI can power up to 6 other (often unidentified) ordinary sockets. For sure, the bathroom counter, the kitchen counter and the socket outside are among them but there could be others. Any moisture in the outside socket is a prime suspect!!

The simplest way to check that the  converter/battery charger is operating is to measure the voltage across the batteries BEFORE plugging the trailer in and once again after plugging in. IF the after-plugin voltage is at least 13.2V then the charger is working.

Don't assume anything, some converters have two outputs, one which serves to power the 12V stuff while plugged in or under generator, and one output to charge the battery. Others have only one output that covers both charging and 12V power. BUT ALL supply 12V to the 12V system when plugged in or under generator, one way or the other.

To go further on this, we would need to identify the make and model of the converter. If the fuses (12V) and Circuit Breakers (120V) are in the same distribution panel, then the make and model of that panel would be most useful information.

And... YES as a temporary solution, an external battery charger can be used to charge the batteries if the converter is not functioning correctly or when the trailer itself is not plugged in

 

[John From Detroit]

The major difference between a "Converter" and a "Battery charger" is regulation.

Now battery chargers (Converters too for that matter) can ber Smart or "Dumb"... A Dumb converter puts out a fairly steady voltage, say 13.6.. If it's a bit less the battery will never reach full charge, if it's a bit more the battery boils over and dry and is damaged rather quickly.

A "Dumb" battery charger may put out as much as 18 volts, no load.. See "Boils battery dry" in time and does damage to electronics as well.

A "Smart" converter senses the state of the battery and adjusts it's output according to need, switching from bulk to absorption to float and back as needed.

A smart charger, usually switches from Bulk to Absorption to Float,,, but it may not switch back without being turned off. (or it might, depending)

So if you use a charger, Spend a lot more time looking at your DC volt meter.

 

[DRam]

Determination that the converter was bad was made on two criteria:  first, the battery went dead while on shore power, second, the converter/GFC breaker stopped popping when the converter was taken out of the circuit.

While one shouldn't assume, it seems likely that the charger section of the circuit is (or was) 'smart'.  It may be that an appropriate converter can be found.  If not, I'll put a smart charger on the battery and a constant voltage 12V power supply on the lights/radio/water pump circuit.  And, since the 5th wheel is winterized and stored I have about seven months to research and buy the appropriate equipment.

Thanks for your replies.

Ron

 

[kansas]

  A converter will make a nice battery charger but a battery charger will make a poor converter.

 

[Shadow Catcher]

A VOM/multimeter is your friend and will diagnose 90+ percent of RV electrical problems you start with where you do have current and go till you do not, the problem is some place in between. But you need to have some idea of how it all works. If you do not have a passing knowledge find a professional that does and watch.