Do I need a torque wrench?

[merlinmurph]

Another newbie question about something I didn't expect.

Just bought a Keystone Laredo 294RK TT and am trying to get the needed stuff. We don't even have a tow vehicle, yet - working on it.

Reading the manual for the TT, there's a lot of emphasis on checking the lug nuts for proper torque regularly. I also noticed that when the wheel is reinstalled, I need to retorque at 10, 25, and 50 miles. Torque specs say 110-120 ft/lbs.

So, does everybody carry a torque wrench with them? Any recommendations?

Thanks.

 

[steveblonde]

I do they are not expensive

 

[lynnmor]

$11.99 at Harbor Freight with coupon.  They are good enough for lug nuts. I carry one all the time.

 

[Nomadb1]

Steel wheels? If you look at the flange on them they compress over time - thus retourquing. After a while the flange is fully compressed no more need to torque.  I bet most folks torque them once and call it a day. I would do it when I got it home from the dealer and again after a couple short trips after that go,go,go.  However after removing them for some reason I'd be sure to re-check them a couple times.

As for shopping for the tow vehicle make sure you calculate the Needed CCC of the TV. Figure how much everything and everyone will be in it plus the tongue weight and 100# hitch then make sure the TV has that much CCC ( check the pillar of the driver's door its on the sticker) assuming that is a 29ft you'll probably be firmly in the 3/4 ton area.

Happy camping,
Brian,

Btw - welcome to the site 8)

 

[viceprice]

I carry a torque wrench with me. Good for the tow vehicle if needed too! The click style are a little more expensive but feels like cheap insurance to me - I bought the six point deep socket for the tow vehicle and the size needed for the TT so I could make them a permanent part of my travel tools. The older style torque wrenches with a pointer and scale that would work well enough for this tyoe of use if that is and option/available for you.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

I'm with Nomad1, but a torque wrench isn't expensive to have on hand.  Even though this is basically a one-time thing.

In theory the re-torquing has already been done when the trailer was hauled from factory to dealer, but I'll bet the delivery driver doesn't carry a torque wrench either, nor did the dealer check lug nut torque before delivering it to you.

 

[dan680fl]

I carry a Milwaukee M18  3/4" impact wrench (rated at 750 ft lbs) and use a torque stick rated at 475 ft lbs. This has made wheel service a quick and easy event.

 

[boatbuilder]

I carry an inexpensive Harbor Freight one in the tool box of my pickup.  I have a couple good ones from my wrench turning days.  I learned a long time age to torque all lug nuts.  On cars it cut way down on comebacks for brake pulsations.

 

[John From Detroit]

I have 2 or 3, Different types... They are very useful

Another advantage of the torque wrench is that it tends to have a long handle.. Gives you more "Leverage" (Actrually torque) when you need it.

 

[merlinmurph]

Thanks very much for the replies. I'm not a huge Harbor Freight fan, but for something like this that would get little use, it's a decent choice.

FWIW, the trailer actually has alloy wheels. Does this make a difference?

And a related question.

When the wheels are removed for any reason, they are supposed to be reinstalled in 3 torque steps, building incrementally to 110-120 ft lbs. I'm going to get the bearings services soon, so should I advise the shop about the 3-step process? Would they even follow it, or do they just blast away with the impact wrench? Probably depends on the shop....

Thanks,
Dan

 

[kdbgoat]

Torquing procedure is usually as you suspected. Also, be aware the nuts that hold your spare to the carrier may be a different size than your lug nuts.

 

[grashley]

The repair shop will tighten THEIR way!  You better torque to proper point when you get home, then check a hundred miles later.  Sometimes, they over torque, too!

 

[lynnmor]

The repair shop will tighten THEIR way!  You better torque to proper point when you get home, then check a hundred miles later.  Sometimes, they over torque, too!

Since you will be letting others mess with your stuff, you need a torque wrench for sure. Disregard any advice about not needing to use a torque wrench.  Good luck with the bearings.

 

[viceprice]

I was taught that alloy wheels are more important to keep properly torqued (or check more often) than  steel wheels due to the differing expansion properties of the different metals and the heat produced.

 

[2kGeorgieBoy]

If your axles have the  "Ezee-lube"  type of hubs in which you can grease the bearings by applying a grease gun to a zerk fitting in the end of the axle, you may want to ensure that whoever does the job, uses the correct wheel seals. As far as I know the seals are of a different design then the standard seal so that they can hold up to the extra internal pressure put on them by the greasing. This forces the grease to flow back thru the inner bearing and outer bearing, eventually coming out of the hub.

 

[Lou Schneider]

I carry a Milwaukee M18  3/4" impact wrench (rated at 750 ft lbs) and use a torque stick rated at 475 ft lbs. This has made wheel service a quick and easy event.

I hope you're not suggesting Dan should use those tools on his 110-120 ft/lb trailer wheel lugnuts. 

 

[dan680fl]

Not at all Lou. My wheels are torque rated at 450-500 ft lbs. You can get torque sticks for whatever rating you are requiring. For my Honda CRV, I use a Ryobi impact (had it long before the Milwaukee came out) and keep it in the car for service on the road. Road Service is fine if you have cell coverage to call them, but sometimes Murphy has a real attitude! Been there, done that.

 

[kdbgoat]

If your axles have the  "Ezee-lube"  type of hubs in which you can grease the bearings by applying a grease gun to a zerk fitting in the end of the axle, you may want to ensure that whoever does the job, uses the correct wheel seals. As far as I know the seals are of a different design then the standard seal so that they can hold up to the extra internal pressure put on them by the greasing. This forces the grease to flow back thru the inner bearing and outer bearing, eventually coming out of the hub.

My advise is to not use the easy lube system at all and just hand pack the bearings. There's a lot less chance of ruining your braking system and it's awful hard to inspect the bearings if you don't remove them from the axle and hub.