Dometic Fridge Won't Cool

[Pitcritter]

We're about two weeks into our three month winter stint in Florida. So far, so good.

Yesterday I noticed that my fridge (Dometic DM2652LBX) wasn't cooling properly.

I assumed that my electric element must have failed so I switched over to gas.

I went outside and looked at the innards of the unit. I saw a glow that I assumed was a pilot light for the gas but not a real flame.

I let it run overnight but it was no cooler this morning.

I switched back to electric and put my meter on the element leads. The heater is drawing 3A. The galvanized steel chimney is warm but not hot to the touch, so I'm pretty sure that the element is working normally.

I'm getting absolutely no  cooling.

Since this came out of the blue with no smell of ammonia, I'm pretty much at a loss.

The weather just took a cooler turn too so that shouldn't be an issue.

Any suggestions?

 

[RedandSilver]

When something goes wrong there is often a CHECK light that comes on.

Did you turn the fridge off and then back on and wait to see if the check light comes on?
Sometimes it takes a minute or two to come on.  When it's on, nothing works, gas or electric on my unit.

I have digital thermometers in both the freezer and fridge - the freezer always gets cold(er) first.
It could take 24 or more hours to see a difference without thermometers.  In Summer 48 hours is common.

But I know that's a long time if you have food inside it.

Sorry I can't help more.

Maybe check the circuit breakers and fuses just to be sure.

And Welcome to the forum.

 

[Pitcritter]

Thanks for the reply and the welcome.

There are no trouble indicators lit. As far as the fridge is concerned, everything is peachy.

To me, the fact that the element is on but I've got no cooling points to a mechanical as opposed to an electrical problem.

 

[QZ]

The small flame is the actual heating flame. You should be able to hear it when you stand near it outside. Look around the outside cavity to see if there is a yellowish substance indicating a leak.

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

You probably won't see yellow powder or smell ammonia - the failure is that visible only in a modest percentage of cases. The coolant mixture contains hydrogen gas as well and it is a critical component, but a tiny pinhole will let the odorless & colorless hydrogen escape. Eventually the rest will escape too, but cooling slows dramatically with the loss of hydrogen.

You can download Service Tips for your fridge at http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf

Since it was working OK and now doesn't work in either mode, odds are strong that the cooling unit has failed and needs to be replaced. It can be done by anybody who is capable with hand tools - no special equipment or training needed.  There are even YouTube videos showing how.

 

[Pitcritter]

Thanks for the detailed reply Gary. I'll take a look on YouTube. I'm pretty handy so the only real barrier might be cost. I can pick up a portable fridge for $150. I'm pretty sure a new cooling element will be a little more than that. I really have no need for the propane operation so that may be a factor in favor of a compact.

 

[Rene T]

Thanks for the detailed reply Gary. I'll take a look on YouTube. I'm pretty handy so the only real barrier might be cost. I can pick up a portable fridge for $150. I'm pretty sure a new cooling element will be a little more than that. I really have no need for the propane operation so that may be a factor in favor of a compact.

Two years ago, I replaced my working RV fridge with a residential fridge and have never been so happy. I had about 7 cu/ft of space in the old one and went up to almost 11 cu/ft with the new one and in just about the same space.

 

[Pitcritter]

Thanks Rene.
Do you happen to have a model number of the fridge you installed?  I'm looking for ideas.

 

[Rene T]

Thanks Rene.
Do you happen to have a model number of the fridge you installed?  I'm looking for ideas.

It's a Kenmore model 106 I believe. It has the condenser on the back of it and not underneath. That's what I wanted. Purchased it at sears.

 

[QZ]

Coil on the back, smallish ventilation clearances, 10.7 cu ft, ice maker compatible, freezer shelf is optional. I made a freezer shelf out of plexiglass with an aluminum edge that looks like factory. Clearances are important and some models have the coils buried under their sheet metal sides.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Whirlpool-10-7-cu-ft-Top-Freezer-Refrigerator-in-Monochromatic-Stainless-Steel-WRT111SFDM/205629361

White Black Stainless

 

[rvpuller]

If your element and burner are working so the cooling unit is bad, I replaced ours with a new Amish unit a couple of years ago and it works better than ever. I'm from a refrigeration background and anyone with some mechanical background can change one out.

Denny

 

[Pitcritter]

In the end, cheap won...

I picked up a 7.4 cu ft residential fridge that fit almost perfectly. An extra 25% space for 30% of the cost of a 6 cu ft RV model. I haven't figured out how to secure it yet, but I'm not moving anywhere  until the end of February. I've got time to figure it out.

I also need to do someone trim work to make it pretty.

Thanks for everyone's input.

 

[Rene T]

In the end, cheap won...

I picked up a 7.4 cu ft residential fridge that fit almost perfectly. An extra 25% space for 30% of the cost of a 6 cu ft RV model. I haven't figured out how to secure it yet, but I'm not moving anywhere  until the end of February. I've got time to figure it out.

I also need to do someone trim work to make it pretty.

Thanks for everyone's input.

Also find a way to secure the doors unless you want scrambled eggs with poured milk already for you when you get to where you're going.