Electrical problem, trip soon need help!

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Firemanphil

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Aug 12, 2012
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10
So I have read some posts on here that deal with close to the same problem but have yet to find a solution. Would really appreciate some help here.

I have a Ford 35' 1997 bounder without slides. I am having trouble keeping my new engine battery charged. The camper batteries if you will seem to work fine. When I go to start the rig I get a break light and an engine light on the dash, but with a turn of the key I get nothing. I can hear both battery disconnects click when I turn them on. If I use the aux start button on the dash the rig will start off the camper batteries and run fine. Any ideas as to my problem. And please lets just work on the RV now, my personal problems would just take too long.

Thanks Phil
 
How long does the chassis battery hold a charge?
Does the battery charge when the engine is running?
Does house stay plugged in to shore power? If it does check to see if chassis battery is being charged...DVM should measure a little over 13 volts while charging.
If it is working for a day or so after being fully charged but fails after a longer time, battery is being discharged by "something".
Is this a new problem?
If not charging when engine runs, it could be a bad alternator. You can check... DVM should measure a little over 13 volts while charging.
If being discharged over time, you will have to find out what is still powered when engine is not running. On mine the chassis radio stays powered to retain memory but that is my choice.
You may also have an aux or battery disconnect to isolate battery when idle.
Many RVers disconnect batteries to prevent discharge.
 
When I turn the battery disconnect off the house batteries seem to hold a charge over time. I just returned from an overnight trip when I noticed the  problem. It took me about three hours to drive to our camp site, spent the  night then the rig wouldn't start about 1pm the next day from the engine battery but it did in the aux start mode. Drove home in the dark and didn't notice light going dim on me and the guage on the dash showed a decent charge. I will check the alternator and votls on the batteries.

Thanks for the help, I'll get back to you soon.
 
First, make sure battery cable connections are clean and tight, including negative cable to frame connection, then determine if you have voltage in the battery with a volt meter with the engine off and unplugged from shore power (should be around 12.5 volts). After that, start the engine and take another volt reading on the battery to determine if your charging system is working (Should measure from 13-14.5 volts). If all is good on those three items, I would guess your problem is probably either a bad cell in your new battery or, as Tom suggested, a bad starter or start solenoid.
 
Check (remove, clean and tighten) both the positive and negative connections to your chassis/starting battery.  This should include both ends of each cable.  Is it possible that you missed reconnecting a wire to the positive side of the battery when you replaced the battery?  Look for a hanging/hidden wire near the battery.

When you use the aux start switch to start the engine, you are using exactly the same path and components that are used normally to start the engine (you are simply jumping in a known good battery).  This effectively eliminates everything, except the chassis battery and it's connections, as the cause of the problem.  The problem is NOT a bad solenoid or starter.

Does this problem present it's self every time you try to start the engine?
 
Ok, so I charged my battery and took it to have it tested. It tested good. I cleaned the posts and reinstalled it. At this time the rig started as it should. The battery test at the 14v level while running so I assume the alternator is working fine as well.  I let it sit overnight with the main and aux battery switches in the off position. The battery held its charge and the rig started the next morning like it should. Then I let it sit with the main and the aux switch in the on position and the rig started as it should and the batteries held a charge. I am wondering if the cut off switch which wont allow the rig to start while the jacks are down is starting to go out? Where is this switch located? And is there just one switch or one for each jack?

Thanks again for all of your help.
 
It still sonds like  you are not charging it. You really need to check your charging voltage with a DVOM to see what is happening when the engine is running. From what you are saying it started fine after charging the battery and that tghe battery is capable of holding a charge.
 
hello firemanphil    i have the same thing on my 1988 pa  when you turn key nothing happens  but 2 lights on dash you have to step one time on brake pedal as you turn key to position one then one light will go out you can now start the motor, this is a antitheft device.
carl
 
Then I let it sit with the main and the aux switch in the on position and the rig started as it should and the batteries held a charge.
Click to expand...

You may be ok for several hours or even overnight but you may not be over several days of camping. You did say you had 14V on a battery while the engine was running, I assume you meant the engine battery, so the alternator seems to be working. BUT, did you measure the house batteries while the engine is running? If they read 14V+ then the engine is capable of charging them too. But when the engine is not running and if you are not plugged, in the house batteries (as well as the engine battery) will discharge unless you purposely turn them off or disconnect one side. A lot depends on the age and general condition. There are a lot of small loads even while everything appears to be off that will drain them slowly. The engine battery does not get charged when plugged in in most vehicles unless a special charger has been installed to do so. 

Before jumping at remote problems like the jack down cutoff switch, the other stuff has to be fully checked out. Not saying it is impossible, but you will have to re-check everything using a voltmeter when the problem is evident and present.

As far as CrazyCanucks suggestion, there is likely a BIG difference between a 1988 (pa?) (unknown) chassis and a 1997 Ford chassis, especially concerning items like theft deterrents.
 
My 97 Bluebird does not maintain the chassis battery while plugged in to shore power, and there are many items in the coach, such as the C.O. detector, and the smoke alarm that draw small amounts of current from the chassis battery as well as the radio, so  if the engine isn't run for a prolonged period of time it will loose charge. I went to Camping World and purchased a device called a Trick-L-Start. It is installed so that it maintains the charge in the chassis batteries from the House batteries. Any Winnie dealer should have them as well, as I understand it they are an installed item on the Winnie's. The one I bought was Marked Winnabago.


Lee
 
A 1997 Fleetwood Bounder does maintain the chassis battery when plugged into shore power, and charges the house batteries from the engine alternator when the engine is running.
 
Dennis is correct, the chassis battery, and the house batteries, are charged from any/all available sources on the '97 Bounder.  Also, since the OP said his aux start function works, he has proven that the solenoid involved with cross battery bank charging is working correctly. 
 
Thanks very much to all for sharing  your knowledge on this subject. I will continue to search for the problem and will post my solution when I nail it down. You have not only given me lots to look at but also have taught me a lot about this rig and the electrical system in general that I did not know.

Thanks Phil
 
Just Lou said:
  since the OP said his aux start function works, he has proven that the solenoid involved with cross battery bank charging is working correctly. 
Click to expand...

Agree with Lou ... however don't forget the circuit on the BCC board that pulls the same solenoid in for normal cross battery charging.  I had BOTH a bad solenoid AND a bad circuit board.    New solenoid fixed the Aux start function but it took a new board to fix the cross battery bank charging.  (I used a toothpick at appropriate times to hold the Aux start switch on until I got the board replaced).

To check it out -

Disconnect switches on to connect batteries to their circuits.

Engine off, generator off, unhooked from shore power ... connect your DVM across the engine battery ... you should see something on the order of 12.x vdc ... or maybe less in your case.

Connect shore power or start the generator and within about a minute or less you should see an increase on the engine battery voltage up to 13-14 vdc.

If not, have someone hold the Aux start switch down while you monitor the voltage ... if you now get the voltage rise you likely have a bad BCC circuit board.  I could never find any place to have it repaired so had to get a new replacement.

This circuit works the same way when you are driving down the road, connecting the engine battery and alternator output to the house batteries.

Hope this helps ... let us know.

Howard
 
Howard Rawley said:
Agree with Lou ... however don't forget the circuit on the BCC board that pulls the same solenoid in for normal cross battery charging.  I had BOTH a bad solenoid AND a bad circuit board.    New solenoid fixed the Aux start function but it took a new board to fix the cross battery bank charging.  (I used a toothpick at appropriate times to hold the Aux start switch on until I got the board replaced).

To check it out -

Disconnect switches on to connect batteries to their circuits.

Engine off, generator off, unhooked from shore power ... connect your DVM across the engine battery ... you should see something on the order of 12.x vdc ... or maybe less in your case.

Connect shore power or start the generator and within about a minute or less you should see an increase on the engine battery voltage up to 13-14 vdc.

If not, have someone hold the Aux start switch down while you monitor the voltage ... if you now get the voltage rise you likely have a bad BCC circuit board.  I could never find any place to have it repaired so had to get a new replacement.

This circuit works the same way when you are driving down the road, connecting the engine battery and alternator output to the house batteries.

Hope this helps ... let us know.

Howard
Click to expand...
Thanks Howard, for the concise description and test procedure.  I tend to get long-winded when I try to describe the function of the BIRD circuitry within the BCC circuit board, so I avoid it when possible :) .

This document is like a Bible for us old Bounder owners.
 
Hey, the first version was longer but my log in timed out before I could get it posted ;D

And thanks for the knowledge you willingly share ... it's appreciated.  :)

Howard
 
Howard Rawley said:
Hey, the first version was longer but my log in timed out before I could get it posted ;D

And thanks for the knowledge you willingly share ... it's appreciated.  :)

Howard
Click to expand...
This happens to me too sometimes, but all I do is click Post again and it goes without losing my posting.
 
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