everyday vehicle choice with plan for towing a trailer ?

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kdbgoat said:
If you will be pulling a smaller trailer, many F-150/1500 series pick-ups will work nicely for you. You may be surprised at the MPG you get with them. Much better that the F-250/2500's. The thing to do is buy the trailer first and then get a truck that can pull it safely. There are folks here that will help you with the towing/payload numbers if you are unsure. Do not listen to the rv or truck salespeople as to what can be towed by what and what the truck can pull. Many don't know how to correctly figure out what is in the limits and what is not, along with some that will flat out lie to you to make a sale.
Have you looked at the Dodge Ram 1500 Ecodiesel or the Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Ecodiesel. Both are great tow rigs if properly set up and if you stay within their tow ratings (7K to 8K lbs). I have both a 2015 JGC ED and a 2016 Ram 1500 ED and have pulled our 29' 6500 lb TT many miles with both. They will both get between 15 and 16 MPG while towing and 26 to 28 running empty (Even better with a GDE tune). They are both a much better DD than a 3/4 or 1 ton truck and still make for a excellent tow rig. Worth looking at if you are sure you are not going too big with your trailer. Someone said to pick out your trailer first then pick a truck to tow it with. Good advice. If the dodge Ecodiesel fits, it is well worth looking at IMHO.
 
albireo13 said:
Hi,
  We are downsizing our house and plan to get a trailer in the next 2 years.  I am now in a position to buy a new (used) vehicle.  My Honda Accord is going away soon  ( next month).  I want something that can tow a modest travel trailer ... maybe 20' long.  It will be for my wife and I.

My dillemma is that whatever I buy will likely be my everyday/commuting vehicle as well.  My wife and I have separate jobs, no mass transit, and really only want to keep and maintain 2 vehicles.

I'm thinking a 3/4 ton pickup or a beefy SUV.  Whatever I get will get crappy gas mileage but, I'm willing to deal with that.

Any suggestions ???  I'd love to hear what other folks have settled on.

Thx,
Rob

Rob
I just went through the same evaluation process as you are, but with slightly different objectives. You can see my "build thread" for the 2002 Dodge 3/4 ton Cummins I bought here (http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/2023098-tow-vehicle-build-thread-ethyl-2002-dodge-2500-auto-5-9l-ctd-4-10-a.html).

While I don't have the towing experience that many do here, as an engineer I've managed to stay abreast of some of the technical issues, and as a farm girl, I have towed trailers on and off most of my life.

My decision was predicated on an objective to tow a 5th wheel which is substantially heavier than the TT you're thinking of (up to 12K vs about 8K to 9K probably for you) and to be able to tow it once or twice a month, in the mountains around Southern Nevada and in the Rockies for skiing, with occasionally cross country trips. For me, the 24V 2nd Generation Cummins was a good choice. I went into it knowing I'd have to spend some money on known issues such as the steering box, transmission, lift pump, etc., but, the basic powertrain should be good for a half million miles or more. I wanted a truck that I could reasonably expect to use for twenty years or more. In the decade and a half that this powertrain has been out, the issues with it have become well defined. So for me, I felt better knowing the weak points than I would have buying a new diesel with unknown weak points, warranty aside of course.

With your requirements I'd probably have gone with a good used gas V8. Were I buying new or near new and only wanted to tow 9K or less occasionally, the Ram 6.4L Hemi would be really attractive.

I'm getting about 15 to 16 mpg in my truck in mixed driving, but it's got the 4.10 gears for highest tow capacity. Guys with the 3.55's are reporting in the 20 to 22 range, but their towing capability is less than mine. I didn't buy it for the fuel economy. At 15,000 miles per year the difference in 16 and 21 mpg is only about $560.

I would suggest you figure out first what size trailer you are going to be comfortable with. If indeed a 20' unit at 9K or less is all you need, and you're only going to be pulling it every few months or so, an F150 crew cab might be a great choice. You can pick them up used for a song and they have reasonable towing capacity. Here's a useful link to the last 15 years of Ford towing guides (http://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/). You'll note for example that the 2010 F150 with 3.55 axle is rated to tow over 9K with the proper equipment, and over 11K with the 4.10. You'll want to DO YOUR HOMEWORK on any used truck to make sure it is equipped like you think it is!

It's easy to get caught up in the hype and just go big. I was seduced by the 1 ton dually call for quite a while, but my requirements just couldn't justify it. I neither need nor want a 14,000 pound or 16,000 pound trailer. My truck is rated to to 11,450, and that's going be more MORE than adequate for me, particularly with some minor upgrades to my truck as mentioned earlier. Figure out what you need in a trailer first, then spec your truck on that. I agree with those that say that, "No one ever wanted less truck when towing!" But you aren't going to be towing that often or that much it sounds like.

You can get a REAL nice used half ton in the six to eight year old and 80K range for about a third or less the price of a new one. The maintenance will be less, you'll get decent fuel economy, and it'll be easy to drive. I LOVE my 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel! But most people haven't driven trucks since they were 11 like I have.

Remember that, not spending money is rarely a bad idea. You can look at trucks free as long as you want. The minute you hand over those hundred dollar bills you're stuck. Take your time and really figure out what you want. Do the research on the engine and power train. For example, the Ford modular engines have an excellent track record, as do most modern gas engines. The 2nd and 3rd generation Cummins have perhaps the best track record out there, as long as you're ok with it being in a Dodge. The 1st gen's are great engines, but they're mechanical injection so lose some at altitudes. The 7.3L Powerstroke was a great engine, but getting one that's low mileage is hard these days. The 6.0L and 6.4L Powerstroke were ridden with issues that'll cost you four to five grand (just on the engine!) to prevent, but I know guys that have 15 year old 6.0L's that are perfectly happy with them (they've changed the oil and coolant religiously!). I rarely hear bad things about the Duramax, but I understand there are a few issues to be aware of. In any of these cases, if you lose an engine, you're out a BUNCH of money! With a gasser you're out a lot LESS money.

It's good to plan, but my suggestion is to try and be very realistic about what your real needs are and, sure, put in a margin for error/safety, but, unless you're just buying for the "toy" factor, there may not be any reason to take on the cost of ownership of any of the diesels.

Your idea of a third "commuter" vehicle is one a lot of people make. My opinion is that the cost and maintenance of that vehicle would be even more difficult to recoup than the cost of the diesel unless you're talking about something in the three to five grand range.

Good luck with your search!

Namaste
Kate
 
I don't think the commuter car is a bad idea IMHO.  Last post comment, I wasn't so sure about so I used myself to see.  (Hope this doesn't get too confusing.)  NOTE: None of the numbers are EXACT, but very close estimates.

In 2011 bought a Honda civic at about 20K and F350 SRW Lariat at about 53K.
Car now has 86k miles and truck has a mere 28K.
NADA as it sits shows car at 9K and Truck at 42K.
If I only had the truck it would have 114K miles and NADA shows that would be worth 36K.

Math up to this point shows I would have been better off with just the truck by 3K.  I'm down 20K and if I only had the truck I'd of only be down 17K. BUT....

Lets factor in fuel mileage.  Truck we'll say averages 18 MPG empty (its really closer to 16-17) and the car averages 30 MPG (its really closer to 34 MPG)
Using $3 a gallon average (doesn't matter what number we use) I've spent $8600 in gas for the car the past 5 years.  If the truck would have went those 86K miles, I would have spent $14300 in fuel. (I saved $5700)

Now I'm showing that I am better off with both vehicles. :)

Insurance would have been cheaper with one vehicle.
Maintenance on the Truck would have offset the insurance savings plus some. Tires, oil changes, brakes, windshields, the list could go on.
Not to mention that I still have a really nice rig worth a lot of $$ that will last many more years.  Don't need the car when I retire. :D
 
we just drove back from a weekend get away pulling our 40 ft 5er in the most HORRENDUS rain/wind mix - please bare in mind i usually get between 9-12mpg today we got 5.5mpg because of the wind DONT SKIMP on your tow vehicle
 
Excellent write up by Kate! One of the best I have seen. And Steve is right, wind and terrain are two major factors that EAT gas mileage.  Throw excessive speed in there and you have the trifecta of poor MPG.
 
is it a race,  or a journey  ?....

in  " the most HORRENDUS rain/wind mix ",    couldn't all the people driving a lesser truck just safely pull off the road and wait it out?  ???

 
TonyDtorch said:
is it a race,  or a journey  ?....

in  " the most HORRENDUS rain/wind mix ",    couldn't all the people driving a lesser truck just safely pull off the road and wait it out?  ???

I suppose they could have but if you have enough truck, you don't need to.

 
lone_star_dsl said:
I suppose they could have but if you have enough truck, you don't need to.

have you ever seen a big'ol 600hp OTR diesel truck and trailer combo laying on it's side in a good storm.....

and you're saying..." that's all just a case of not having enough truck" ?  ....  ;)


to me ( based on my years of driving trucks )

I think, it's often a case of  " too much throttle  and not enough thought "..



the odds of an accident go up,... the bigger the rig you're in,..and the bigger the storm you're in,....

and most importantly.......the bigger the hurry you are in.


peace.

 
donuts said:
I wonder what he's burning to get over 22 mpg? ::) I have a 2014 that gets about 15-17 around town and on the freeway. When I'm pulling my 5th I get from 12-13 mpg. Over 20 is unheard of. We have 4 GMC/Chevy Duramax trucks in my neighborhood and not one gets anything close to that. I wouldn't want Albrieo13 to be mislead with that info.
If anyone else is getting that milage, please let me know how your doing it.
As far as pulling power.......no doubt the Duramax will pull my trailer up mountain roads with little effort.
3/4 to 1 ton would be a good choice with the Duramax. That 20' trailer will turning to a 34' 5th and the half ton will never work.

Stan
He's got a programmer you can change on the fly, He can dial it up to smoke all four tires in 4wd (which I've seen him do) or set it for optimum mileage, He drives from Tyler to Big Spring Texas for work, On I-20 west of Ft Worth He said He's seen 32mpg and 27 is average. Note: Your mileage may vary LOL But even if I average 17 that's still better than 15 from my 1500. And that Duramax will, quote "pull the world" according to Bad Brad 8) 
 
TonyDtorch said:
is it a race,  or a journey  ?....

in  " the most HORRENDUS rain/wind mix ",    couldn't all the people driving a lesser truck just safely pull off the road and wait it out?  ???

there were a lot that were pulling into rest stops etc that highway is notorious for the winds - one trip we saw 3 1/2 tons on their sides with long travel trailers attached within 15 mins of each other
 
kennyshark said:
He's got a programmer you can change on the fly, He can dial it up to smoke all four tires in 4wd (which I've seen him do) or set it for optimum mileage, He drives from Tyler to Big Spring Texas for work, On I-20 west of Ft Worth He said He's seen 32mpg and 27 is average. Note: Your mileage may vary LOL But even if I average 17 that's still better than 15 from my 1500. And that Duramax will, quote "pull the world" according to Bad Brad 8)
everybody body has a "buddy named Brad " that exaggerates everything and your buddy is full of it.  The DIC in truck is instant mileage read out and can be thrown out the window with a programmer installed .
 
Actually Brad has a Dodge, and He's not "full of it", Cody has a Duramax with a superchips programmer and out in west Texas on flat ground is averaging 27 in real world numbers, not the on board dashboard readout. I've been an ASE certified mechanic on gas and diesel trucks since 1978 and todays diesel trucks are way better than their gas counterparts. If You are pulling a camper every six months then get You a gas truck, But if You are living on the road and don't want to be limited on where You can go then spend the extra bucks and have what You need to do the job right. as a professional mechanic I bet You don't have toolbox full of Harbor Freight tools, I use Snap on and I bet You do too. My 1500 GMC will never see the Rocky Mountains with My 27' TT in tow, I know better, NOW, after I bought it. 
 
kennyshark said:
If You are pulling a camper every six months then get You a gas truck, But if You are living on the road and don't want to be limited on where You can go then spend the extra bucks and have what You need to do the job right.

Good overview... although many RV'ers find themselves in the wide "gray area" between those two extremes.  That's why the gas vs. diesel question comes up so often.
 
kennyshark said:
Actually Brad has a Dodge, and He's not "full of it", Cody has a Duramax with a superchips programmer and out in west Texas on flat ground is averaging 27 in real world numbers, not the on board dashboard readout. I've been an ASE certified mechanic on gas and diesel trucks since 1978 and todays diesel trucks are way better than their gas counterparts. If You are pulling a camper every six months then get You a gas truck, But if You are living on the road and don't want to be limited on where You can go then spend the extra bucks and have what You need to do the job right. as a professional mechanic I bet You don't have toolbox full of Harbor Freight tools, I use Snap on and I bet You do too. My 1500 GMC will never see the Rocky Mountains with My 27' TT in tow, I know better, NOW, after I bought it.
yes mainly snap on but anyways ask Cody if he wants to sell his truck cause if I could get that I would buy one :) I went to college for Ford and got all ford certs they wouldn't let us do ASE anymore because Ford doesn't recognize them . However none of that matters now I'm turning wrenches for govt.
 
Cody's truck is a 2013 Chevy 2500 crew cab LTZ, Black, Black leather, heated/cooled seats, power camper mirrors, loaded. He paid 38K for it with 60,000 miles on it, the dealer gave Him an additional 60,000 mile warranty on it, just because He asked for it. He bought it in January, it's an amazing truck, like I said I don't know if it's a freak of a truck or not but I want one too! When I worked for Kerrville Bus Company many years ago We had a Gen 1 Dodge cummins 12valve turbo, that truck would pull anything and get 21 MPG I never saw or heard of anything like it! It was a 1 ton dually with a flat bed, We loaded 10,000 lb on the flatbed and brought it home from New Orleans 70 MPH and got 21MPG it was crazy. I know My next one is a 3/4 ton Duramax, My GMC is nice and it's My driver too so moving up to a crewcab 3/4 ton 4wd will be great, this will be my last truck. I retire in 5 years at 60 so I will pay it off and hit the road! That's My dream anyway LOL.
 
Campingnut16 said:
yes mainly snap on but anyways ask Cody if he wants to sell his truck cause if I could get that I would buy one :) I went to college for Ford and got all ford certs they wouldn't let us do ASE anymore because Ford doesn't recognize them . However none of that matters now I'm turning wrenches for govt.

I've been doing DPF deletes for years and Alberta is one of the last places in North America where we can still do them legally, and they are illegal in the states. no superchips  programmer is going to give you 27mpg on just a tune, no way, no how, not gonna happen- sorry, even with an H&S mini max which is the best programmer on the market, with a DPF delete, and a 4 inch exhaust will you get that with a duramax. on a PRE 2008- which you cannot buy- because they were given a stop and decease at SEMA  in 2007 yes, a 2013 nope - best you would see would be about 22-23 SUPERCHIPS DOES-NOT MAKE A PROGRAMMER FOR A LML DEISEL that will give you that much of a difference 170lbs of torque wont give that much fuel mileage and its HIGHLY exaggerated at that

http://superchips.com/


http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2013/01/epa-says-dont-touch-paticulate-filter.html
 
Just traded my '13 F150 Ecoboost... Be VERY wary of Ford's fuel economy claims... My neighbour's '12 F150 5.0l got FAR better fuel economy than my truck (by over 3l/100km) - similar spec'd truck, and towing a similar sized (length & weight) trailer to mine.

My new GMC Diesel is getting better fuel mileage than that Ecoboost

On the plus side, that little boosted 3.5l engine has got phenomenal power - when towing or otherwise.
 
http://www.etrailer.com/Performance-Chip/Chevrolet/Silverado/2013/SU2845.html?vehicleid=20134049660 This is for a duramax with a LML engine.
 
kennyshark said:
http://www.etrailer.com/Performance-Chip/Chevrolet/Silverado/2013/SU2845.html?vehicleid=20134049660 This is for a duramax with a LML engine.

you need the whole story superchips is always making bogus claims

http://www.smithdieselparts.com/h-s-performance-mini-maxx-duramax-race-tuner-monitor-109003-chips-modules-p-1275-c-2_210_353.html
 
steveblonde said:
you need the whole story superchips is always making bogus claims

http://www.smithdieselparts.com/h-s-performance-mini-maxx-duramax-race-tuner-monitor-109003-chips-modules-p-1275-c-2_210_353.html
Agreed H and S is far superior I wouldn't run super chips on my lawn mower
 
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