Hydro this is a 1982, they didn't have any type pump in tank until after 1992 when the first OBD 1 computers with fuel injection came out & even then it wasn't on heavy duty applications. Then in 1996 OBD 2 came out which has been in use ever since. Nothing more advanced has been invented. This 1982 has a 4 barrel carb & manual pump on engine (old school). Left (driver's) side RV has an access door where the 2 large fuel filters are, like you would see on a diesel, no idea why Bounder did that, a bit over kill. Then someone before me decided it also needed an inline metal cased filter on the frame prior to pump & again after pump then finally the small brass fuel filter Chevy puts in at the input line at carburetor, thus 5 fuel filters in all. Needless to say carb was VERY clean when overhauled. I did leave Chevy's brass filter there, replacing with a new one. I did leave Bounder's 2 large canister filters there, again replacing with new ones. However I did remove the 2 redundant after market filters as useless. Other then the screen on the end of pick-up tube commonly referred to as "sock" that's it, no electric pump on this year RV unless added after market. Carbs accept up 12psi but the accepted norm on line pressure is 5-7psi in most cases. Fuel injection originally required more substantial to over ride the spring needing any where from 30-80psi depending on throttle body, multiport, sequential, mechanical or electronic but that was added after computers. William52 clothes pins were used back in the 50's & to some extent still work although I wouldn't recommend relying on them. The theory is the term "vapor lock" refers to the fuel inside a metal fuel line gets hot enough to boil thus turning into a vapor. This pressure is too great thus a low pressure mechanical pump can't push against it causing the carb to run dry mimicking running out of fuel. The clothes pins on a metal fuel line work as heat sinks. Drawing the heat away from the metal tube into the wood & dissipated into the air. Longer or hotter the line the more pins needed. The fix for this was auto companies adding a return line at fuel pump on side of engine. By recirculating the warm fuel in line back to cool tank it would keep the fuel in line to carb cooler. This worked on my RV just like any car until they ruined the lower shroud. Problem is distance between pump & carb is a lot farther due to routing then any car plus more open space then under the hood of even a truck so no wind tunnel effect. By replacing manual pump with electric provides 2 improvements. 1 able to locate return line at carburetor with a tee thus removing the portion of line between pump & carb that's getting hot thus not needing clothes pins because entire fuel line stays cool & 2 not cranking engine 20 to 30 minutes trying to reprime manual pump, fill line then refill empty carb before engine will restart thus lowering strain on starter, solenoid & engine from cranking too long. Jyro this specific carb can handle up to 12psi without over powering the needle & seat. Due to distance between fuel tank & carb O'Reilly's offers a RV specific electric pump to handle this. 92GH yes I have checked box trucks, step vans, cargo trucks, basically anything with a P-30 or P-40 chassis & even C /K trucks & ran into a dead end. That's where I started before posting here thinking same as you, however found designs changed in 1985 or 1986 so not much to choose from that far back. Headhunter9 built own what for race cars?
