Forgot to empty hot water tank…

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Well… it is quite expensive, no?
If you have to take it to an RV dealer to get the job done, Yes. Not so bad if you can do it yourself, but your questions suggest that is not the case.

In any case, don't borrow trouble. Give it a try (cold), using the onboard water pump for pressure. A severe leak will be signaled by repeated cycling of the pump. A tiny leak means a longer time between pump cycles. Look closely around and under the heater tank, including from behind it, to see any signs of leakage. If all looks good, turn on the heater and check again after it gets hot.

If no problem, you got lucky. That's not as rare as many would have you believe. If you find something suspicious, tell us about it for further advice.
 
Thanks for all your replies. Finally got some time today to test it. With cold water it was all good, the pump was off all the time.
I turned on the electric water heater for about 30 minutes, drained some water, inspected under the tank… :( there is a leak.

I just watched a few videos how to replace it, pretty straightforward, except the cost of the new unit.

Is there a way to fix the existing one, budget friendly fix?

Thank you!
 
Wondering if it could be (aluminum welded?) to repair the damage. Pull it out to the damage and have and expert weld it.

I think I read somewhere this is possible. Wait on the experts here to say.
 
Thanks for all your replies. Finally got some time today to test it. With cold water it was all good, the pump was off all the time.
I turned on the electric water heater for about 30 minutes, drained some water, inspected under the tank… :( there is a leak.

I just watched a few videos how to replace it, pretty straightforward, except the cost of the new unit.

Is there a way to fix the existing one, budget friendly fix?

Thank you!
It wouldn't hurt if you were to pinpoint from where it's leaking. It's not necessarily the tank which is leaking. It could be a fitting, or as you say you drained some water, if you opened the tank drain valve make sure it wasn't some of that water you're seeing. I'm just guessing here but I suspect way up there if your tank ruptured from a freeze you be seeing more than just a little water. Look for the simplest solution and work up.
 
Wondering if it could be (aluminum welded?) to repair the damage. Pull it out to the damage and have and expert weld it.

I think I read somewhere this is possible. Wait on the experts here to say.
Especially as it's not under that much pressure.
 
I would think that if it was a crack caused by freezing, you would notice a huge bulge all over in the tank. That would happen before it would split wide open. If it is not oversized then it may be just a pipe fitting. You need to do more inspecting.
 
...

Is there a way to fix the existing one, budget friendly fix?

Thank you!
I am going to flat out say no there is not a budget friendly fix, can it be fixed, maybe, but it is certainly not going to be budget friendly unless you are a highly experienced specialty welder.
 
If the OP didn't drain the tank last season and there is still water in it there is a very good chance the tank did not crack. He can check by cracking the relief valve, or better yet pull the drain plug and see if water comes out. Then, re-plug, fill it with water preferably by city water connection, give it a few minutes to fill, then check for leaks, which should show up pretty quickly. And, even if dripping does occur, it may be one of the water lines that burst more so than the water tank cracking.

I do like using the water pump to check for water leaks also. Once the water lines, including the hot water tank, get pressurized like others have posted the water pump should turn off. If its a small leak the OP may have to sit in the rig for a while because the pump cycling could be intermittent.
 
I am going to flat out say no there is not a budget friendly fix, can it be fixed, maybe, but it is certainly not going to be budget friendly unless you are a highly experienced specialty welder.

ok... how can I find some place that do the welding job, how these places are called usually?
 
If the OP didn't drain the tank last season and there is still water in it there is a very good chance the tank did not crack. He can check by cracking the relief valve, or better yet pull the drain plug and see if water comes out. Then, re-plug, fill it with water preferably by city water connection, give it a few minutes to fill, then check for leaks, which should show up pretty quickly. And, even if dripping does occur, it may be one of the water lines that burst more so than the water tank cracking.

I do like using the water pump to check for water leaks also. Once the water lines, including the hot water tank, get pressurized like others have posted the water pump should turn off. If its a small leak the OP may have to sit in the rig for a while because the pump cycling could be intermittent.

I tested it yesterday, there is a leak. A minor one, when I the water heater is on.
 
I tested it yesterday, there is a leak. A minor one, when I the water heater is on.
What do you mean when "the water heater is on"? If the tank is ruptured it's going to leak if there's water in it. All the lines are pressurized so they're going to leak regardless.
 
ok... how can I find some place that do the welding job, how these places are called usually?
Try calling local welding and metal fabrication shops. Also check welding supply shops as they will often have business cards from local welding shops, showing the type of welding they specialize in.
 
ok... how can I find some place that do the welding job, how these places are called usually?
Usually just called a "welder" or a "welding shop". but if it's an Atwood heater you need one that specializes in welding aluminum, an often difficult task. And be sure to state it is a water heater tank, cause some will decline to do it because of the extra risk of working on a pressure vessel. Google 'welder near me' to find names and start calling.
Note: If it's a Suburban brand heater, it is porcelain-lined and can't be welded.

This is the sort of welding job that is likely to be really expensive, and you still need to remove & then re-install the heater yourself (or pay an RV tech to do for you). Probably just as costly to replace the tank part of the heater.
 
I tested it yesterday, there is a leak. A minor one, when I the water heater is on.
Have you noticed how many folks here have suggested that it may NOT be the water heater itself leaking? Many other things, with water in them, can leak from getting frozen, including the various lines and valves in the water system.

Search for the EXACT spot of the leak, recognizing that with many leaks the water can dribble around and find several other possible paths, including dripping onto the tank and SEEMING to be from the tank -- can be very misleading.
 
Given the way water expands when it freezes, the water heater, itself often has room for that expanse, while the pipes may not.

Assume nothing.
 
Wondering if it could be (aluminum welded?) to repair the damage.
As one who has been a welder (a very long time ago) and who still has a good friend in the business, I'll caution you that as others have said, welding aluminum takes special skills and a tank adds extra requirements. If you can find someone to do the work it will probably be very expensive and have no guarantee.
I still think you are jumping to a conclusion that the tank itself is leaking. Far more likely that a water line fitting is cracked at or near the heater tank.
I absolutely agree with Gary. It is very unlikely that a tank that was broken by freezing would only leak when hot but fittings are a very different matter. I locate a suspected leak by fastening a small piece of paper towel or tissue around or to the possible areas that could be the source, then pressurize the tank for a short time and check each one for signs of dampness.
 
What do you mean when "the water heater is on"? If the tank is ruptured it's going to leak if there's water in it. All the lines are pressurized so they're going to leak regardless.

Looks like there is minor damage, it was filled with water for almost 24 hours, there was no leak. With all lines pressurized it was good too. I've noticed some water on the floor a while after I turned on the heater.
 
Usually just called a "welder" or a "welding shop". but if it's an Atwood heater you need one that specializes in welding aluminum, an often difficult task. And be sure to state it is a water heater tank, cause some will decline to do it because of the extra risk of working on a pressure vessel. Google 'welder near me' to find names and start calling.
Note: If it's a Suburban brand heater, it is porcelain-lined and can't be welded.

This is the sort of welding job that is likely to be really expensive, and you still need to remove & then re-install the heater yourself (or pay an RV tech to do for you). Probably just as costly to replace the tank part of the heater.

No, it's a Atwood (GC6AA-10E)
 
Have you noticed how many folks here have suggested that it may NOT be the water heater itself leaking? Many other things, with water in them, can leak from getting frozen, including the various lines and valves in the water system.

Search for the EXACT spot of the leak, recognizing that with many leaks the water can dribble around and find several other possible paths, including dripping onto the tank and SEEMING to be from the tank -- can be very misleading.

No, I have not. Thank you, very good point. I will remove and inspect it first. The only thing, with so minor leakage, I am not entirely sure how to identify it. I guess it will be some sort of crack..
 

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