fridge not working from LP

[openingshok]

Helly.  Noob to the forum here.  We just upgraded from a 18' Bantam flyer to a 29' Starcraft Tahiti.  We are really excited for our first trip.  The only bug we have so far is with the refrigerator.  It works great on 120v.  However, when I try and run it off LP it will ignite, burn for a minute or two, then the electronics will close the solenoid.  A minute or two later, it will re-ignite itself then shut off again.  This will happen 2 or 3 cycles then the check light comes on at the refrigerator panel.  It isn't a flame problem.  The flame appears nice and blue.  It isn't an ignition problem.  The electrode sparks once and the flame is lit solid.  It just won't stay running. 

A side note.  The Dometic recall was just installed while we were signing the paperwork.  Our previous camper had the same recall and the fix worked flawlessly for 3 years.  I'd call the dealer but we bought it 3 hours away so it would cost more to pull it back than to get it fixed locally, but I wanted to check here first to see if there is a simple fix first.

Thanks for reading ;D 

 

[Alfa38User]

The problem appears to be that the circuit board does not realize that the flame has lit and thus shuts down the gas supply.  The detector that is responsible for this is the same piece as the spark producing igniter. If this is a new unit, take it back to the dealer and have him fix it. Otherwise, you will have to check that the detector/igniter is sitting well in the flame and then trace the wire up to the board. A dirty/corroded connection there is often the problem. Remove, clean, re-install. If fixed, bravo!!, if not, replace the igniter/detector. Let us Know!!!

HTH

 

[openingshok]

That makes perfect sense.  It's a 2004 serial number, so corrosion is absolutely a posibility.  I will tear into it tonight and see what I can find.

THANKS!!

 

[Gary RV_Wizard]

As Stu says, odds are the wire connection from igniter/sensor to circuit board is usually  the problem. If that's not it, the ceramic on the electrode may be cracked. It is cheap enough to replace the whole igniter - about $25 if I recall correctly.

 

[openingshok]

Excellent.  Thanks!!

 

[openingshok]

This is interesting.  As I said.  This fridge just had the recall mods installed this week.  I opened up the circuit board cover and the white lead (+) to the thermal sensor was unplugged.  I plugged it in and instantly the 12v fuse blew.  It measures 12v across the fuse terminals.  I blew 4 fuses in a row.  I unplugged the white wire and the flame ignited instantly for a minute and shut off, just as before.  With the white wire connected I have an over current, with it disconnected I have an open and no way for the circuit to know the flame is lit.  I also ohmed out the sensor and it reads 0.3 with no flame.  This is both terminals (black and white) disconnected.  When the flame is on the resistance peaks out at 90.6 when the system shuts off for a minute before re fireing. 

So, is my board bad, or thermal sensor?  Should that white wire be plugged in or not.  And if so, why the heck did the tech at the dealership leave it unplugged?

Standing by banking my head against the camper

 

[openingshok]

Yeah so I found it.  The tech at the dealership hooked up the wires to the board wrong!!!  The heater wire was hooked up to the flame lug, and the flame wire was left disconnected.  Nice.  I went to my old TT that I just sold and took a look at it's wiring and noticed the problem right away.  I have to say this isn't the first time a RV tech. did a poor job.  And not at the same dealership.  I guess you have to learn as much as you can if you want it done right :-\

 

[scottydl]

I guess you have to learn as much as you can if you want it done right :-\

ABSOLUTELY.  This is just about the #1 fact that I like to see new RV'ers learn, and something I have come to appreciate as a fairly new RV'er (4-5 years) myself.  Do not rely on dealerships or RV service techs to always be right.