Frustrating electrical problem

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Fluffywhitedogs

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 1, 2016
Posts
56
I have a 2017 Dodge Durango, towing a 2023 Heartland North Trail 21RBSS. I previously towed a Coachmen Clipper with no issues.

I live near Toronto, and picked up the North Trail at Couch's in Cincinnati on my way south on my way to camp and then visit family. All legs so far were in daylight so I don't know if the lights were functional. On the way back North from Kentucky, at night, I realized that my running lights weren't on. I pulled over at a Walmart until daylight and headed home. Once home, I determined that the fuse in my Durango for that circuit had blown. I replaced it and successfully used the trailer for a couple of weekend trips. At this point, I thought it was an isolated fluke, and I installed a backup camera and side marker cameras.

Then it blew again. I replaced it and at that point, it started blowing immediately when the headlights were turned on. I uninstalled all the cameras just to be certain and started troubleshooting. I got a tester to check the vehicle plug and everything appears fine. I found a couple of wire connections on the trailer that looked potentially compromised, so I re-connected them, but to no avail. No matter what I did, the fuse would blow. I even changed out the main power cord, as I'd seen it suggested as a possible cause. Nope. (And to add insult to injury, the fuses in question are micro-cartridge fuses that I can't find locally and are about a buck and a half each on Amazon!)

I went through the aggravation (I knew what I was getting into!) of trying to find a dealer that would look at it, but nobody would service a unit not purchased through them. I finally got approval from Heartland to use an independent tech. He came over and tested, tightened, tidied, and inspected things. He found a few wires that may have had poor connections, and some wires in "the vault" that weren't tightened as snugly as they should have been, but could not isolate exactly where the issue was. But something he did seems to have worked. He also reinstalled the cameras for me.

Well, this weekend, about 45 minutes into a trip, it blew again. (It's easy to notice now, day or night, because my cameras shut down.)

The tech that I used has suggested that I have the truck checked, but that seems improbably to me after "fixing" the trailer side extended/changed the fuse-blowing time frame. I don't mind doing it, but it seems like a waste. I also don't know anyone locally that I could ask to try on their vehicle :(

Does anyone have any valuable insight? I love this trailer and overall I've been quite impressed with the build quality, but this problem is making me nuts! I want to be able to travel at night, and I really like my cameras as I normally camp alone and love the ease of back-up!
 
Have you taken a close look at the 7 pin connectors at both ends?

I had a situation where my brake controller would report a short and shut down to protect itself seemingly at random. Many trips back to the place where we bought the trailer and usually it would fail as soon as I pulled out of their lot. We took it back 4 or 5 times, they never figured it out.

I finally pulled everything they installed apart and noticed that they had put the female side of the connector in a place where the wires had to make a 90 degree turn less than 1/2 inch from the rear of the connector housing. This was putting a lot of stress on the wires in the connector. I added a plastic spacer (that I made) to move the connector out a little bit and shortened the wires going to one side to take some of the stress off the connections

After that it would only short out once in a while.

One day I noticed that the center connector appeared to be bent. Turned out that it wasn't, the screw holding it in place was very loose. Tightened it and never had another problem.

The point of all this rambling is that sometimes it's the dumbest little things.
 
You may have two problems now. The first was a random short and the second was an instant short after installing the cameras. Check to make sure when you stuffed wires in camera box that the wire insulation was not compromised.

If the truck was the problem, it would blow the fuse without the trailer.

Electric trouble shooting 101 "Divide and Concur"
Isolate half of your running light circuit. If the problem goes away reinstall half of what you disconnected Keep doing this until you have a small area to look closely at.



Good Luck Dennis
 
This part might cure your problem. It sounds like your power wire is connected to a low amperage wire/fuse not big enough to handle your trailer wiring. The Durango LED taillights are low amperage and will not handle conventional trailer lights or extra cameras. It requires a conversion box with its own power wire and fuse to be connected directly to the battery. The box is easy plug and play installation except for the power wire. The battery is inside a double walled steel box under the passenger seat, hard to get to, and would require drilling a hole through the box. A better source would be the + jumper cable lug under the hood. But my Durango has a cigarette lighter a couple feet from the back hatch. Yours may have one also. The cigarette lighter was a nearby high amp power source for me so I didn't have to run a wire all the way to the battery. The plastic trim just pops off so you can hide the wire inside it.
 
i had a 98 tahoe chevy that did the same thing. i bought it used from an elderly couple and brought it home and hooked it up to my 14 ft toy hauler and it started that fuse blowing. i was leaving for Daytona in 2 days so i horridly mounted a circuit box at the rear and ran a fused #8 stranded wire to handle the current for the trailer through automotive relays and let the vehicle wiring handle the 15miliamp to actuate the relays. worked well so i left it that way till i bought a new toy hauler and traded the tahoe for a gmc 6.6ltr diesel. before i let the dealer have it i removed all my modifications and hooked it back to the trailer and it blew again. i had a slo blow fuse so i put that in there and after 5 seconds i heard a hissing sound beside my left ear and looked to see just what and fire shot out of the head liner and burned the wiring in half. i spliced those wires back together and just for giggles found the trailer fuse blowing stopped.
sure did mess up the headliner for about 6 inches in diameter.
 
I'd rather skydive without a parachute than deal with 12 volt electrical problems. :D :D :D
I don't think that's called "skydiving". The diving part seems to indicate a purposefulness, which would be lacking if you found yourself out there without a parachute.
 
I want to be able to travel at night, and I really like my cameras as I normally camp alone and love the ease of back-up!
You might try connecting your truck to another trailer to see if the fuse blows then. If it doesn't that would eliminate the truck. Then use an ohm meter and start measuring between the circuit that is opening a fuse and ground.
7-Way-RV-Diagram.jpg
 
Have you taken a close look at the 7 pin connectors at both ends?

I had a situation where my brake controller would report a short and shut down to protect itself seemingly at random. Many trips back to the place where we bought the trailer and usually it would fail as soon as I pulled out of their lot. We took it back 4 or 5 times, they never figured it out.

I finally pulled everything they installed apart and noticed that they had put the female side of the connector in a place where the wires had to make a 90 degree turn less than 1/2 inch from the rear of the connector housing. This was putting a lot of stress on the wires in the connector. I added a plastic spacer (that I made) to move the connector out a little bit and shortened the wires going to one side to take some of the stress off the connections

After that it would only short out once in a while.

One day I noticed that the center connector appeared to be bent. Turned out that it wasn't, the screw holding it in place was very loose. Tightened it and never had another problem.

The point of all this rambling is that sometimes it's the dumbest little things.
One time I had a trailer electrical problem with lights. After much hair-pulling I opened up both ends of the umbilical cord plugs. One had just one strand of wire out of the clamp and it would touch the terminal next to it, after I redid all the connections I never have another lighting problem.
 
One time I had a trailer electrical problem with lights. After much hair-pulling I opened up both ends of the umbilical cord plugs. One had just one strand of wire out of the clamp and it would touch the terminal next to it, after I redid all the connections I never have another lighting problem.
I actually replaced the cord entirely to rule it out..
 
One time I had a trailer electrical problem with lights. After much hair-pulling I opened up both ends of the umbilical cord plugs. One had just one strand of wire out of the clamp and it would touch the terminal next to it, after I redid all the connections I never have another lighting problem.
I've found that 90% of time, it's a loose wire/bad ground at the plug (either side).
 
Thor did their ground in a poor location under the RV where it gets wet every rain so it needs cleaning and regular maintenance.
 
Just an update on the original post. As stated, it blew again after the repair. While I was paralyzed by indecision and frustration and just doing lots of reading, I decided to simply replace the fuse yet again and see how it went. I also put a hefty coating of dielectric grease on the plug. I've had it out for 4 different trips and it hasn't blown again. So I'm starting to lean towards a poor connection, maybe it really was on the vehicle side? I've made extra sure to snug it in really well and fingers crossed?
 
@Fluffywhitedogs and @TheBar: Just out of curiosity, does your Durango have the factory tow package? or was the hitch and harness installed aftermarket?

Asking because I have a '21 Durango with factory tow option. I don't have any immediate plans to tow anything with it, so haven't studied the system at all. However, this post has me wondering if the addition of trailer lighting load was spliced into the vehicle lighting (aftermarket), or on a dedicated trailer circuit (factory option).
 
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