HELP! Class A Running in Driveway and Door Lock Stuck!

[n7qvu]

Trying to think what I would do on my Bounder in this situation:

First priority would be to kill the engine. Assuming the hood was locked, very little could be done there.

I just changed my gas filter, so I think I would crawl under to the filter(rubber hoses on each end) and cut it.
Then bend it back onto itself and tie it that way with tie wrap or tape. I know there would be a lot of pressure fronm the pump...but.

Also if one knows where the power wire to the fuel pump is(underneath), that would be easy to cut.

Next time I'm under my RV, I might put a switch on it.

What would others do to quickly kill an engine in a 'locked up tight' RV?
  I can access my air filter underneath, maybe cram something in it?

 

[jmugs]

I suppose one could install a kill switch into the ignition system. Maybe hide it under the bumper or something.

My driver door wouldn't unlock with the key ( same style lock as entry door ) when the button was pushed on the inside. I opened the lockset and disabled the button so now it has to be locked and unlocked with the key from outside.

 

[John From Detroit]

I am going to assume this is a Tri-Mark lock, same as I have,  And I'd give you my opinion of them but.. Alas, melting monitors is not my style.

It is indeed safe to drive.. but, read on.

You need a 90 degree bent pick (This is the kind of pick a mechanic would use to remove seals and things like that.. One with a compound bend might even be better.

Sneak it in the door latch area from outside, engage and depress the snap bolt.. This bolt has broken INSIDE the latch.

once this is done you can open the door and dissabmle the latch.

Remove thye bolt, noting how it goes together,  TAPE it together properly and take it to a metal fabricator (If you find some guy who runs his own body shop been in the business since the Model T and so on.. He's the man you are looking for)

Have him carve you one out of genuine STEEL instead of the crap Tri-mark used.

NOTE that basement latches break teh same way... but are easier to unlock with a tool.

When I did mine, not knowing anything about it yet.. I did some slight body damage to the edge of the door. (Touch up paint level) just so you know.. but I got 'er open and replaced the )(#*$@ Latch.

ONCE you get the bolt out, temp (DO NOT LOOSE THE SPRING) temp re-assemble the latch,, You can use the dead bolt to keep the door closed till you get the striker bolt replaced.

 

[Frizlefrak]

Incidentally....if this happens again.....a quick, easy way to kill the engine is to climb under the coach and pinch off the rubber fuel line with a pair of vice grips.  Ensure you pinch off the pressure line (bigger of the two) and not the return line.  Engine will starve for fuel, and shortly thereafter, stop running.  The battery will go dead with the key still on, so getting in soon would be a good idea.

 

[ChiefM]

You could install a car alarm system that has a electric start and kill system on it.

 

[Jerrygroah]

Did anyone think to use a fire extinguisher? All you would have to do would be aim the discharge at the air intake and feed it co2 slowly. The engine would die.
Jerry

 

[Jim Godward]

Did anyone think to use a fire extinguisher? All you would have to do would be aim the discharge at the air intake and feed it co2 slowly. The engine would die.
Jerry

But ONLY a CO2 extinguisher, not the powder ones!!

 

[John From Detroit]

Eaier to learn how to break in.

Somewhere in the engine compartment (Ask the next time you have it serviced) is a wire you can disconnect.. as to where, on a Diesel, I have no clue.  On a gasser.. Depends on the age of the engine if I have a clue.  but I know it's there.

 

[SoEzzy]

On the diesel DP's the fuel shut off solenoid is electrically operated but can often be activated manually in an emergency.

It does mean you have to learn where it is, and how you need to access it, how you need to avoid spinning parts of the motor assembly.

If you have a gas engine, it would be possible... (but perhaps not wise), to put in a external hidden switch to turn off the fuel pump, (if it's electric)!

The vehicle would then stall out, but once back inside you could reactivate the fuel pump, and away you go.

Either of these solutions may mean crawling under your engine compartment, scary while the engine is running, and if you find yourself needing to do it, please chock or scotch the wheels both front and back, to help reduce risk and increase confidence!

JM2C!