Hi Guys:
Here a update to my situation. Hopefully this help some fellow RVers and also hopefully have some more insight for me. These are what I have found and learned:.
- The furnace can operate with 10.5 v but that is the low minimum
- Running fan and furnace trying to start (kick in) is a very general symptoms which can be caused by many many issues: from loose or rusty contact, low running fan speed which doesn't close the sail switch or the sail switch itself, Heating element or ignitor, Limit switch, Regulator, Circuit board and etc.
- Circuit board is easy target, and ex3nsive one relatively, but if you fan is running and the furnace is trying to come on and the system doesn't go to shut down, the circuit board is not to be blamed, the problem is somewhere else.
- When you are working on your furnace, if it is like mine that you have to remove the furnace exhaust tube extension out to get the cover off to work on the furnace, in most case you have to put the exhaust tube extension back on other wise there is not enough back pressure and your furnace keeps having the same symptoms and you don't know what is causing the issue: the issue which there initially or lack of back pressure.
So this is where I am: I still have about 1.5-2 voltage drop at my circuit board when the fan kicks in. I have check any and all connection that I could see and feel deep somewhere. I have replaced the heating element and sail switch. My furnace is comin on at this point but after few tries. Is this normal or does the furnace suppose to stay om after the first try? I talked to Dinosaurs electronic and bought one of their board although with the help of their techs, they were extremely helpful, I ruled out the board as the issue.
Unfortunately the weather has been warmer up here in Seattle, around 50, since this furnace was working on warmer times and then stop working when it gets to freezing. We'll what happen.
Here a update to my situation. Hopefully this help some fellow RVers and also hopefully have some more insight for me. These are what I have found and learned:.
- The furnace can operate with 10.5 v but that is the low minimum
- Running fan and furnace trying to start (kick in) is a very general symptoms which can be caused by many many issues: from loose or rusty contact, low running fan speed which doesn't close the sail switch or the sail switch itself, Heating element or ignitor, Limit switch, Regulator, Circuit board and etc.
- Circuit board is easy target, and ex3nsive one relatively, but if you fan is running and the furnace is trying to come on and the system doesn't go to shut down, the circuit board is not to be blamed, the problem is somewhere else.
- When you are working on your furnace, if it is like mine that you have to remove the furnace exhaust tube extension out to get the cover off to work on the furnace, in most case you have to put the exhaust tube extension back on other wise there is not enough back pressure and your furnace keeps having the same symptoms and you don't know what is causing the issue: the issue which there initially or lack of back pressure.
So this is where I am: I still have about 1.5-2 voltage drop at my circuit board when the fan kicks in. I have check any and all connection that I could see and feel deep somewhere. I have replaced the heating element and sail switch. My furnace is comin on at this point but after few tries. Is this normal or does the furnace suppose to stay om after the first try? I talked to Dinosaurs electronic and bought one of their board although with the help of their techs, they were extremely helpful, I ruled out the board as the issue.
Unfortunately the weather has been warmer up here in Seattle, around 50, since this furnace was working on warmer times and then stop working when it gets to freezing. We'll what happen.
