Help! Slide Roof Holes - How to fix?

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jnwhite

Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2015
Posts
20
Location
Eastern WV
Hi All,

I need a little help. I was starting a project to replace all the slide toppers. I decided to start with the 6ft bedroom slide since I thought it would be easier that the two 14ft ones.

After getting the slide topper fabric off, I was unexpectedly greeted with a slide roof metal top that has a bunch of what look like corrosion holes. Not sure what the metal is (no rust color) but looks like someone dripped acid in few areas. The attached picture shows two of the areas. The third is worse, but the picture didn't come out.

Not sure how to patch. Any patch would need to be able to slide past the top seal without damaging in.

My ideas so far are:

1 - Bond a piece of metal to the roof to seal and cover them.

2 - Fiberglass filler to seal and fill the holes

3 - Flex seal them or use some roll on bedliner to seal them

Anyone ever dealt with this? Any ideas or help appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay
 

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Welcome to the forum.
At first I was going to say use Eterna-bond tape but then looking at your pictures, it looks like it may be allot. It looks like aluminum. I would think that there would be some type of rubber/vinyl compound you could apply with a roller. Someone will be along soon to give you expert advice.
 
Glues and epoxies have come a long way, but I really don't like using them in areas I won't have access to. Eternabond tape would probably work well, and would probably be the easiest solution. My only concern would be that the slide seal might eventually rub the tape off over time - probably not, because it's strong stuff, but maybe.

In our business, we do a lot of work with aluminum, and if it were me, I would patch the holes with thin aluminum patches. I'd use a good sealant on the bottom of the patch, rivet the patch to the roof material (It looks like aluminum to me too) then put a little more sealant over everything - smoothing it out so it has a low profile. JMO

Kev
 
Welcome. What year and model?

That's corrosion, I've seen it before in aluminum. Probably what happened is water sat on that slide roof intermittently for a very long time and reacted with whatever was on the surface of aluminum. My last sailboat had aluminum water tanks that had exactly the same problem as your slide roof. I talked to a 3M chemical engineer about the possibility of using 3M 5200 sealant to patch the perforations and he didn't think that was a good idea but just because of the potable water application.

Speaking of 3M 5200, I think that might be the ideal solution for you. It adheres very tenaciously to aluminum - it was my favorite sealant for marine use.  Prepare the surface with light sanding and remove the corroded particles. Use acetone or MEK and wipe it down and apply the 5200.
 
jnwhite said:
Hi All,

I need a little help. I was starting a project to replace all the slide toppers. I decided to start with the 6ft bedroom slide since I thought it would be easier that the two 14ft ones.

After getting the slide topper fabric off, I was unexpectedly greeted with a slide roof metal top that has a bunch of what look like corrosion holes. Not sure what the metal is (no rust color) but looks like someone dripped acid in few areas. The attached picture shows two of the areas. The third is worse, but the picture didn't come out.

Not sure how to patch. Any patch would need to be able to slide past the top seal without damaging in.

My ideas so far are:

1 - Bond a piece of metal to the roof to seal and cover them.

2 - Fiberglass filler to seal and fill the holes

3 - Flex seal them or use some roll on bedliner to seal them

Anyone ever dealt with this? Any ideas or help appreciated.

Thanks,
Jay

Kind of makes me wonder what the root cause of the failure might have been. 

Takes alot to mess up fiber boarded stuff.  Regardless if this is Alum, Kevin hit the nail on the head.  Section out the bad if your going for a quality Repair.

Problem is it is the roof and you would be opening Pandora's Box to do that on a old RV. 

Not worth suiting and Lacing Up the Boots to take a step on that carnival Repair Adventure ride,.. IMHO.

But, If you got the money....Just like Willie Plays...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KeoYaaojdCE

I am a huge fan of Eterna Bond, now. 

I had my first Adventure with the stuff this weekend. 

Whew Glad I finished up because it is going to be a Chilly 76F and windy today. 

Love me some Desert!

Eterna Bond, Poor boy Deluxe is my Repair Angle I would Play.  ;)

John
 
Thanks for all the ideas.

Just a little more information. The metal is aluminum. The damage is only in the rear most 30" of the bedroom slide in 3 localized areas. Looks like water pooled there some or maybe some animal nested there and it corroded through. I bought it used, so don't know its whole history. I would have never known the problem, if I hadn't been replacing the topper fabric that is getting pin holes in it from age.

I inspected the other two longer slides as best I could with the slide covers in place. I will pull one of the other slide toppers today to start dealing with removing the slide locks which are leaking. The rubber drain pans on the locks are cracking and leaking.

I think my plan of action is as follows:

1 - Temporary fix to keep water out

Coated the holes and area with Flex seal then cover with wide Eternabond tape. This will get me through the winter season.

2 - Permanent fix is to replace the aluminum roof. I need get the materials and learn how it is attached to slide. I think there is removable trim on the outside edge and the two sides. Need to see how the inside edge is attached and what sealers are needed. Not sure if the slide must be removed or not. Research is required.

I don't have time for another major project this fall. I still need to replace all the leaking HWH hoses and replace all the slide toppers.  Retirement is kicking my butt :)

Jay
2007 Winnebago Journey 39K w/ Cat350
 
I would glue a sheet of aluminum right on top of the entire slideout. You can get a roll at Lowes or Home Depot. I think it's 20" wide. I don't think the extra thickness would be a problem.
 
ChasA said:
I would glue a sheet of aluminum right on top of the entire slideout. You can get a roll at Lowes or Home Depot. I think it's 20" wide. I don't think the extra thickness would be a problem.

:)), Yep Lot's -O- ways to skin this cat for sure.

Edited: Oh..If Aluminum 1/4" Stamped don't take a torch After it. 

I had a Theory about Heating it up a bit so I could pull the crunch out of it with a Come Along. 

I have done Instant Liquid Recycling!  ;D

Sometimes we Roll 7s and Sometime it is Snake Eyes.

JD
 
jnwhite said:
Thanks for all the ideas.

1 - Temporary fix to keep water out

Coated the holes and area with Flex seal then cover with wide Eternabond tape. This will get me through the winter season.
I wouldn't use the Flex Seal or it and the Eternabond may peel off. Flex seal has not stuck well to anything I've used it for. The Eternabond won't come off and is waterproof if you follow the directions. Eternabond is considered to be a permanent fix that should last 20 years if something doesn't scrape it off when the slide is extended or retracted.
 
TheBar said:
I wouldn't use the Flex Seal or it and the Eternabond may peel off. Flex seal has not stuck well to anything I've used it for. The Eternabond won't come off and is waterproof if you follow the directions. Eternabond is considered to be a permanent fix that should last 20 years if something doesn't scrape it off when the slide is extended or retracted.

I'll Drink to the Bar! 

Dude served me some some sweet tasting Kool Aid he was selling to the Peanut Gallery Members.  I paid $0.00 for his time. 


Check Out my Adventures in DIY Roof Repairs.  I repaired it using "The Bar's" Brain Cells.  ;D

Now off to get the 2nd hand banged on awhile.  Carpal Tunnel #2 on the Burner for today.

I got to get that Adventure going, so better get it moving.....

Rolling the Dice~

John
 
If I needed a midnight emergency repair and Eternabond was not available I would get Flex Seal tape at Walmart. It seems to be very similar but quite a bit thinner.
 
X-Roughneck said:
I'll Drink to the Bar! 

Dude served me some some sweet tasting Kool Aid he was selling to the Peanut Gallery Members.  I paid $0.00 for his time. 


Check Out my Adventures in DIY Roof Repairs.  I repaired it using "The Bar's" Brain Cells.  ;D

Now off to get the 2nd hand banged on awhile.  Carpal Tunnel #2 on the Burner for today.

I got to get that Adventure going, so better get it moving.....

Rolling the Dice~

John
John, how did the surgery go?
 
TheBar said:
John, how did the surgery go?

:)) :))

Tomorrow I take off the wrap.  On the Carpal Tunnel they bang around on your inner wrist area, so your hand will be discolored looking like a hockey puck, but the fingers are unaffected. 

I am going to Launch the motorhome soon but going to rental car at destination.  I plan on goofing off until 31 Dec 2020.

Surprisingly you walk out of same surgery, light knock out like colon check.  Light on Michael Jackson, Milk of Amnesia Special. Feeling good and very little pain. 

Now that all the heavy duty stuff has worn off +36 hr...yea I feel pain a bit.

When 1 Jan Rolls Around I am going to rip into my Quit-ment, just as I ripped into the day when I chose to be a part of the work force.

The left hand I got done 1 Sep and it is coming along nice, just gripping squish ball, Dr wants thumb to small finger tips touch for that flex retraining.

Right now I have gotten the instant relief of the BUZZ the ringing of the hands has stopped.  It was getting that pain would shoot thru shoulder at night making me jump out bed on bad days.

I have gotten some other issues with my right hand that will never be "right" again lack of Grip due to a smash, got bitten by the elevator handles and the top of a stand of drill pipe.  Thought my finger was going to be gone when I peeled the glove off, but never been real good after that.

Thanks for Asking,

Cheers!

JD

 
John Canfield said:
I think smearing around 3M 5200 would make a great temporary fix.

Careful with that stuff.  It's not temporary.  Removing it later to make a permanent fix can be... challenging.  Maybe some Dicor?
 
The problem with spot repairs is not only does it create an uneven surface it's not addressing the adjacent areas that are also affected but haven't rotted through yet.  Think of having an old bondo'd car, once the cancer starts there's no keeping up with it.  The direct answer here is what ChasA suggested, a uniform sheet attached with evenly applied appropriate goop.  Not sure if I'd go with metal, fiberglass or maybe some sheet roofing material but whatever it was it'd be one piece for the entire surface.  Done in one shot, and likely lifetime solution.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
You are right Mark. I think the OP is going to skin the roof at some point, we were just proposing temporary solutions until he does the permanent repair.
 
You are correct, John.

I will put a whole new roof aluminum on probably in Spring.  I need to learn how it is attached.  I spent many hours looking on the Internet for anyone else who had a bad aluminum slide roof or any videos on how to replace.  Evidently, it is not a common problem as I couldn't find any. 

There is a single part number for the roof of the slide in the Winnebago docs.  No way to tell if that is the whole slide roof or just the aluminum skin.  I need to contact Winnebago Customer Relations and see what they can tell me.  I have one of those house trim sheetmetal brakes in case there are any bends (sides of roof may be bent 90 deg).

My first temp repair (Flex Seal) survived a 2" rainfall earlier in the week with no leaks.  The wide Eternabond tape is due in from Amazon in a few days and will be a secondary layer of leak protection.  These are only temporary fixes.

Jay
 
jnwhite said:
...There is a single part number for the roof of the slide in the Winnebago docs.  No way to tell if that is the whole slide roof or just the aluminum skin. ..
It's probably a sandwich, Winnebago might buy that as a pre-made material. Good idea to talk it over with Owner Relations.
 
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