I am new to RVs, but I have the impression that an RV is a leaking box or a box that is about to leak. Granted prevention is the key, but many causes of leaks are not that noticeable. I am wondering what people do to ensure water damage is not occurring? How do you check? Would it make sense to cut small holes in the interior wall in key areas so you could monthly check if a beam is damp?
How to catch the beginnings of water damage
- Thread starter chagood
- Start date
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scottydl
Site Team
Regular roof maintenance is probably the main way to prevent leaking. Water in the walls is a symptom, not the problem. If you inspect roof seams for condition and cracking, and ideally reinforce/cover with Eternabond tape or a similar product... you should not have to worry about leaks.
rebelsun
Well-known member
As I've always said.....scottydl said:
There's gotta be a better way.
Like, maybe a manufacturing process that is immune to leaks.
You don't see roofs on cars or trucks, or even busses leaking, so why are motorhomes such leaking sieves?
JudyJB
Well-known member
One thing you can do is find out what is in the walls and ceiling on an RV you are considering buying. Is the framing wood or aluminum? What goes between the studs? How are the walls made? How is the roof constructed?
There is a difference between RVs in terms of construction. Older units are more likely to have more wood construction instead of aluminum.
Manufacturers have gotten better over the years, although some still need improvement. For example, older Class Cs used to have windows in the front overhang, but they leaked a lot, so most manufacturers stopped putting windows up there. Also, motorhomes are bigger than cars and do a lot more flexing as they are driven.
And the furnaces would work better if there weren't so many darn holes in these things from slides and such. It is really hard to construct a wall that moves in and out, but doesn't have little gaps here and there. Ditto for better insulation and windows.
There is a difference between RVs in terms of construction. Older units are more likely to have more wood construction instead of aluminum.
Manufacturers have gotten better over the years, although some still need improvement. For example, older Class Cs used to have windows in the front overhang, but they leaked a lot, so most manufacturers stopped putting windows up there. Also, motorhomes are bigger than cars and do a lot more flexing as they are driven.
And the furnaces would work better if there weren't so many darn holes in these things from slides and such. It is really hard to construct a wall that moves in and out, but doesn't have little gaps here and there. Ditto for better insulation and windows.
Yes you do. Many issues over the years with cars was wet areas in trunks and floor boards. Usually caused by cracked welds, rust or sealant failure.rebelsun said:
Design changes and improved processes helped reduce these but maintenance, washing...waxing...rust detection and repair were and are important. The same with the roofs on our RVs. The sheer scale of these makes it more difficult to design, produce and maintain.
My soon to be X wife had 2-3 inches of water on the floor of her 2014 Ford Flex, came in through the windshield.
The only way for a RV to not have any issues ever wth a roof leak is if it was solid one piece material with zero holes or openings. That's no holes for the ac unit, ceiling vents, bathroom vents and the list goes on. Mi would think it would also need to have one piece roof +'front and rear caps. All of these areas are typically sealed with silicone which wears out over time. Best bet is to check at least once a year if all the caulk is in good condition. If this is done leaks will not be a issue.
The only way for a RV to not have any issues ever wth a roof leak is if it was solid one piece material with zero holes or openings. That's no holes for the ac unit, ceiling vents, bathroom vents and the list goes on. Mi would think it would also need to have one piece roof +'front and rear caps. All of these areas are typically sealed with silicone which wears out over time. Best bet is to check at least once a year if all the caulk is in good condition. If this is done leaks will not be a issue.
Sam!
Well-known member
If a roof is inspected and sealed before your rainy season yearly you would infact be preventing it from even beginning. I learned how to do my roof properly IMO because I bought a used MH that had a leak. neglect is the only major cause i found. the repair was to remove all old caulking and silicons down to the flange clean and reseal, even added extra by including eternabond tape. removed all my windows and resealed them. It now is something i don't worry about even though i do look and feel for signs after a rain poor.
Inspection has to be meticulous.(first time at least) physically feeling the caulking edges making sure they are adhered to the surface and looking for cracks and separation of the caulk. loose screws or broken fixtures.
If i could have a Rv shelter I would have one to further protect from damage.
Inspection has to be meticulous.(first time at least) physically feeling the caulking edges making sure they are adhered to the surface and looking for cracks and separation of the caulk. loose screws or broken fixtures.
If i could have a Rv shelter I would have one to further protect from damage.
scottydl
Site Team
rebelsun said:
Because RV bodies are built more like houses than automobiles. Find me a person that has never had a leaking roof on their aging house or other structure... it would be rare.
Since the RV manufacturing process is not likely to change anytime soon (and we as buyers of used RV's have little impact on that), it's a good idea for owners to know how to maintain what they already have, or will be buying.
