How to remove windo valance top and sides?

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Rolin

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 12, 2013
Posts
47
Location
Oregon
daynight shade string broke and need to remove the curtain so  we can restring it.  Can't figure out how to get the top valance off to access the shade so we can remove it.  Appreciate any feedback on how to do this.
 
What model, and year coach?  Many have the shade held up by a screw through the top of the shade into the valence near each end ..nthe screws may be hard to see/find. In this case, you have to remove the shade before you can remove the valence.
 
We have a 2007 Winnebago Aspect 26a.  The large blind over the dinette string broke.  Trying to figure out how to remove the blind so we can restring it.  Wish our first experience had been one of the smaller blinds ;-). 
 
Screws.  Likely 3 or 4 of them.  Look under the valance where it is connected to the wall or cabinet and you should see them.
 
You should be able to remove the shade without removing the valance.  Look up at the white track (with the shade in the down position) you should see three screws.  The shade will drop when you remove the screws. 

This would be a good time to start replacing the shades with MCD shades.  Easy to install and you have half the job done already.  Important keep the old screws because they do not give screws with there new shades. I posted a video on the blog on replacing the shades.

Good luck

Jim
 
Forgot to mention, remove the table or put in the bed position, and remove the screen so you can get your head under the valance to look up. With all shades with a screen it just gives you more room to move.

Jim
 
donn said:
Screws.  Likely 3 or 4 of them.  Look under the valance where it is connected to the wall or cabinet and you should see them.

Some are hard to find as they penetrate the fabric, just feel around for them. Replacing with MCD, the valance may still have to be removed.
 
This would be a good time to start replacing the shades with MCD shades.
We paid a bit over $2,300 for MCD shades for 6 windows plus the windshield in 2008. We have really liked the duo shades. One broke internally in 2011 and was "converted from gen 3 to gen 4" at the factory. Another broke in 2012 and we dropped it off at the factory for repair. Now last month another one broke and MCD told me repairs are not available as the mfg'er of those is no longer in business. Our only option is discount on a new one, but cost is still over $200. Disappointing, especially w/17 more rollers of the same design.  :(

I took the broken roller apart and found it is all hard plastic (even the "spring") that gets fatigued then cracks and breaks. We can get along w/o the one that broke this time, but not sure what we will do when the others eventually break. Hope the newer rollers are more durable. Maybe I'll see if I can replace just the roller ...

 
Rolin, I have had to work on a couple MH's that had broken blind strings and they had no intention of spending $2k on new blinds. If you go to the site below you can get a kit to do the job with instructions etc. It's really not a bad job once you do one. All the ones I have done the screws heads were deep into the valance and very hard to see. There were 3 screws holding the valance up and 2 screws holding the blind to the valance. I found with some help it was easier to remove the valance/blind as an assemble rather than trying to remove the blind from the valance first. Lay the blind out in a large area and it's easier to do. When you hang the assy. and do the string adjustment to the spools on the wall go light on the tension when winding it around the spool, the spool will rotate around 1/2 turn at a time, do both sides equally. Good luck with it
www.dirtyblindman.com
 
I agree with Mavarick and especially after the report from afchap, fix the old shade.  CW also sells string kits.  I take different colored making pens and color the end of the string which helps me get the job done.  And I didn't need to drop the valence, I open the window as far as it will go with the screen removed and stand on a stool and get the screws from outside.  Dick nvrver
 
Read all the on-line directions. Search the forums.  You'll get more confident.  Make a drawing colour-coding each string path as you UN-string the old one.
  Warning:  I first purchased the kit.  The string was not long enough for the large dinette window shade.  You can purchase the same gauge string at Joann fabrics.

Mike Leslie
2003 Minnie
 
Of all the shades I've had out, there are usually two screws which are imbedded in the shade header.  They are usually one to three inches inboard from each end.  There is also a catch in the middle which has as tab release.  If you can slide the window sideways and pull the screen out, you can stick your head partially out the window to see what's up there.  Be sure to "debur " the holes in middle crossbar where the lines pass through.  We have been using 96lb Sturgeon fishing leader, same thickness, and doesn't stretch.  Usually another set of hands come in handy, cut your new strings at least 6-8inches longer than the original, and check your adjustment bobbin (winder thing) to make sure either one of the two holes isn't broken through.
 
If you choose to re-string your blinds, buy the replacement guide inserts and replace at the same time. If one has/gets a burr or sharp edge it will quickly ruin the new string. Excess tension is another cause of shortened string life. Tension should be just enough to keep the blind where positioned.
 
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