How to verify level indicators are accurate?

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ttyR2

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I'm pretty sure that the side-to-side bubble level on my Alpenlite is not accurate. Do I verify that by using a good quality construction level held up to the exposed frame at the front? Or on the floor inside?
 
What we do in our Winnebago Voyage 38J is to level  by the lights, then we put a frying pan with about 1/4 inch of water in it, and see how level it is, then we set our bedroom and bathroom door at right angles to each other.  If the water pan test seems to be level, and the doors dont want to swing, then we call it good.  We find these tests to be more accurate than the leveling lights.

Paul
 
When we first got our RV I put a level in the refer and leveled the RV. Then I checked the level on the counter top and found the counter top was the same as the refer. Now when we stop I just put the level on the counter top.

As Paul said, I also check the doors. If they stay where I put them and don't swing open or shut we're good to go.
 
I use a good 4' carpenters level that I know is accurate and put it on the floor.
 
I should have been more specific. I'm going to pull the old bubble levels off, buy new ones, and then level the trailer and reapply them. Hence my question on where to check for the best accuracy, even if it's not a spot I'd use normally (like the frame under the trailer).
 
Floor of the trailer in front of the fridge.  Use a 3 or 4 foot carpenters level.

Why the fridge?  Leveling the fridge is the main reason for careful leveling of an RV.
 
This is mainly for trailer owners as most do not have auto levelers or lights. As you most know i was worried about leveling my 5er.

Well i went out and bought the stick or screw on bubbles at camping world or walmart. I got the trailer all level and realized you have to get the bubble leveler level before you attach it( the bubble should tell you).
Hold your mouth right and and attach the bubble level and ugh it's a hair off, then once you get it right you or someone else comes along and bumps it if it's a stick on and it's incorrect again.

Just carry a good cheap Stanley 4ft level in your trailer $10 at walmart if you don't already have one. Save your money on the stick on bubble levels.  It took me about 10 mins to level at the campground.
i found just a hair lean, (not enough to tell) helped my shower and tanks to drain completely. Will depend where your shower drain is, mine is front right corner. Just my 2 cents!
 
NOTE!!NOTE!!  I have a question for those of you that use 'doors' as indicators ~~(2007Itasca Sunova 26P)~~  My bathroom door(only interior hard door in MH) swings to full open to rest on far wall any time it is opened ~closing of living area & making a 'suite' out of sink-shower-bedroom.  I thought this was a planned function.  Is the door supposed to stay where yo put it ??
 
maddog348 said:
NOTE!!NOTE!!  I have a question for those of you that use 'doors' as indicators ~~(2007Itasca Sunova 26P)~~  My bathroom door(only interior hard door in MH) swings to full open to rest on far wall any time it is opened ~closing of living area & making a 'suite' out of sink-shower-bedroom.  I thought this was a planned function.  Is the door supposed to stay where yo put it ??

If it's a dual function door and actually has 2 latching positions - one to close off the bathroom and 1 to close off the living area - I'd bet this is planned. The hinges might be installed in such a way as to allow the door to swing closed in this particular manner. Another possibility is that the hinges are spring loaded.

If it's only a bathroom door, the hinges are either not plumb or just loose/really free moving.
 
I have found that a level; 2 footer worked good for me, placed on the frame in any flat spot. Then I stuck some levels on the upper cabinets for now.
 

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