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Christow19

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IMG_2414.jpegIMG_2414.jpegIMG_2413.jpegIMG_2412.jpegIMG_2411.jpegI have a 2010 Open Range 5th wheel 38’ and am having some serious issues with our water heater. I currently live full time in the trailer with my wife while we are in between houses, and the water heater keeps “boiling over” so to speak. The temperature of water out of faucet is 190+ degrees.

I have the original Atwood water heater with the trailer. The issue being that I keep getting water spewing out of my blow off valve. I replaced the valve with a new to no avail. So I then noticed the temp of the water being 190+ degrees so I assumed the thermostat was broken. I replaced it as well but to no avail. I had to splice on of the wires as seen in pic, because the connector had rotted out. Other than that I replaced the two thermostats and the fuse that is in between the thermostat wire. I am at a total loss here. I have hot water, but it gets too hot and cannot be controlled. It also trips the DSI - FLT light inside the rv when I turn on the water heater. (See picture)

Any information would be extremely helpful. We cannot afford to install new unit at the moment and would love to be able to get it fixed.

Thanks
 
The LED is an ignition fault light, it will illuminate if it tries to ignite but fails after some number of attempts. But if it's running past the thermostat and to the point the over temp thermostat kicks in, ignition is not your problem. Flame with a failed indicator, and no thermal control is a strong indicator the logic has failed. Worst case is to R&R the potted assembly in the upper right hand corner but I would probably watch the sensors through a cycle, and measure the inputs of the module and make sure it's not a failed connection causing it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
 
The first thing that you need to do is to establish an air bubble in the top of the water heater tank, as they are designed to have. Without that air bubble, each time that the water is heated it expands and has nowhere else to go so the pressure relief valve opens to let the excess out, just as it is designed to do in order to prevent a rupture of the water tank or water lines. That relief is also opened by excess temperature so that may also be part of the problem as it should have a 140° thermostat. Are you sure that you have the proper one for your Atwood water heater? It is also important that you have the proper relief valve as well. I believe that you have a model that uses the same control for both propane and electric heating but to know for sure we need the model of Atwood that you have.
Christow19 said:
It also trips the DSI - FLT light inside the rv when I turn on the water heater.
Click to expand...
That isn't an Atwood control module but if it works the same as those by Atwood, the light should turn on when you start it on propane, then go out after the flame is burning and detected. It would then turn back on if the flame ever fails to relight when it calls for heat as the flame cycles on and off as heating is needed. I think that this is the service manual for what you have but need a model number to be sure.
 
I have not tried the heater on gas just strictly electric and the led indicator still comes on. I have ensured proper parts for the unit and ensured a proper air bubble. Every time I reestablish the air bubble, it once again overheats and spews out of relief valve.
 
Mark_K5LXP said:
The LED is an ignition fault light, it will illuminate if it tries to ignite but fails after some number of attempts. But if it's running past the thermostat and to the point the over temp thermostat kicks in, ignition is not your problem. Flame with a failed indicator, and no thermal control is a strong indicator the logic has failed. Worst case is to R&R the potted assembly in the upper right hand corner but I would probably watch the sensors through a cycle, and measure the inputs of the module and make sure it's not a failed connection causing it.

Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Click to expand...
Would I check connection by simply doing continuity? Those connections do not come out of the module like the newer ones. They are hard wired in and no quick disconnect is available
 
Ok in the top photo you see the panel that says T-Stat and E.C.O.
The Thermostat is behind "T-Stat" it is possible it is not in contact with the tank (likely is)
Or it's defective (you need to test. With the tank HOT unhook a wire from it and measure resistance between the terminals (You need only unhook one)

You should see 'Open switch" (Over limit) on the meter
If you see a low number T-Stat is bad

Test #2... With tank hot leave that wire off and see if the unit re-lights. If not.. Control board is bad
Control board is the box upper right same photo
The control panel which someone says is not Atwood.. Two switches and up to 3 lights (Often the witches themselves are lit) The lighted switches control their own lights directly (NOT controlled by the heaters's control board) only the little light (DSI FLT) is controlled by the control board IT's a fault light.
 
If the fault light is coming on when the GAS switch is off, tells me the circuit board has gone bonkers.

You do need to pull the two white connectors off the circuit board and see if the terminals are corroded, this alone could cause an issue.

There is an odd possibility that the relay that controls the electric heating element (which is on the inboard side of the heater) may be stuck on, but that still would not explain the fault light.

As noted by Kirk, you need to set an air gap at the top of the tank. Page 26 of this service manual details how to set the air gap.

Charles
 
I would also get a threaded PVC pipe of 2 or 3" and screw it into the outlet of the relief to make the drops fall beyond the burner tube and electronics. I have done that with several Atwood models as an occasional drip is pretty normal. Also, post the model of your water heater so that we can be sure that we are looking at the proper service manuals. Over the years I have repaired a lot of RV water heaters but can only guess if you do not share the model.
 
Christow19 said:
Where would I best find the model number?
Click to expand...
It most definitely is an Atwood and not Suburban. It probably has the model number and serial number on the white sticker that can be seen in your next to last picture on the lower right wall of the water heater. It will be one of those on this list, or very similar to it.
1695248962271.png
 
In the bottom right of your pictures I see the thermostat springs, thermostat, and ECO laying on the bottom. Those should be re-installed tight against the tank ( the purpose of the springs) then the ring turned so the tabs lock into the retainer.
The procedure is in the service manual.
Right now the water heater has no high-temperature limit, and were it not for the high-temperature/over-pressure device, might rupture the plumbing somewhere.
This video shows how to remove and replace the thermostat and ECO beginning at the 3 minute mark. (allow heater to cool first!)
If the heater still over-heats, causing the over-pressure device to leak- preventing further damage, turn it off until a professional can make repairs.

 
Last edited:
Kirk said:
It most definitely is an Atwood and not Suburban. It probably has the model number and serial number on the white sticker that can be seen in your next to last picture on the lower right wall of the water heater. It will be one of those on this list, or very similar to it.
View attachment 167681
Click to expand...
Okay thank you I will look these evening and update!
 
Ray-IN said:
In the bottom right of your pictures I see the thermostat springs, thermostat, and ECO laying on the bottom. Those should be re-installed tight against the tank ( the purpose of the springs) then the ring turned so the tabs lock into the retainer.
The procedure is in the service manual.
Right now the water heater has no high-temperature limit, and were it not for the high-temperature/over-pressure device, might rupture the plumbing somewhere.
This video shows how to remove and replace the thermostat and ECO beginning at the 3 minute mark. (allow heater to cool first!)
If the heater still over-heats, causing the over-pressure device to leak- preventing further damage, turn it off until a professional can make repairs.

Click to expand...
Those where the replaced springs. I put all new thermostats in with new springs and yet still have this issue
 
Temperature out of control on both gas and electric after replacement of t'stat and ECO sensors. Heats on both gas and electric.

1. Remove connectors from control module. Inspect for pushed pins, broken pins, missing female sockets, arcing and looseness.

2. Replace control module.

There's not that much to replace on these.
 
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