I need a lift! (Suspension)

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Bayou Talker

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 10, 2008
Posts
210
Location
Highlands, TX
I currently have a 2007 Cruiser 29CK 5'er that I tow with a Dodge 3500 DRW 4X4. Due to the height of the truck bed, when I tow the trailer is nose high slightly. I also would like a little more clearance under the wheel wells. In later year models Cruiser has longer spring brackets that lifts the trailers approximately 3-4 inches higher than mine so I know the height should not cause any issues. In fact, even just 2 incehes would help out.

My question is "Does anybody sell a lift kit or parts to correct these issues?"
 
Is the current suspension spring under or spring over axle? If it is spring under, then you might be able to just flip the axle to the underside of the springs and gain the lift you need.
 
joe21 said:
Is the current suspension spring under or spring over axle? If it is spring under, then you might be able to just flip the axle to the underside of the springs and gain the lift you need.

That is what I was hoping but alas it was not to be. That would have been too easy. On the newer models they just have longer spring hangers welded to the frame to add the height. I don't want to do that because of safety and warranty issues.

I think what I am looking for is a block to go between the axle and spring and some longer u-bolts. Those kinds of kits were available a few years ago for boat trailers to add ground clearance. I don't know if they are still available or not. I guess I can make the blocks and buy the u-bolts but it would be easier if I can find a ready made kit.
 
Have you tried calling around to some trailer shops and seeing if they have some springs that will fit that are taller. I swapped a few sets like that when I worked at a trailer shop in high school.

About the block idea, you can get lift blocks from a truck lift kit. But be careful because they will cause the axle to exert more torque stress on the springs and ubolts. This is why they are not preferred over actual spring lifts on trucks and jeeps. Also, try to get steel blocks because I have seen aluminum blocks break and come out from under the springs. This happened on a full size 4x4, but it could possibly happen from lots of highway miles and rough roads.

Keep us posted on whatever you decide to do.
 
You need lift blocks and longer ubolts. Any trailer shop should have them and if not look at 4x4 shops. the biggest thing you need to know is what width of leaf spring and what is the axle Diameter/round or square. You should have 2" wide springs if that is the case a 4x4 shop shoudl be able to get you steel block and  ubolts for a Spring over CJ5 or samurai. Hope that helps try the trailer sales paces first they are usually cheeper.

I am not afraid of welding on taller hangers but that is totaly up to you.

wayne
 
Give the people at Mor Ryde a call. They do this type thing all the time. There are several options to do it safely. If not done properly you can have a problem with the frame cracking buy the spring mounts because of the added leverage on the mounts.
They are very nice people to deal with, plus they know what they are doing.
 
Look at the Jayco 5th wheel trailer spring to frame attachement.  I had to raise my trailer by 2".  I had 12 Plates cut by a machine shop and drilled 4 holes 9/16" dia. same size as the eye holes and bolted the plates outsde the existing spring brackets. Then I fasten the spring to a hole 2" lower with proper shimming and bolts and locknuts I purchased from a fastener store, I think they are 9/16" Dia.  I will attach a Pic later on same post.  Because I drilled 2 extra holes I still can raise my RV to suit the higher trucks that the Truck designers alway build that are so high and unpracticle for 5th wheeling.  In addition I had the chance to set this up like the transport trailer axles with a alignment bracket moveble if required.http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/caissiel/AdjustableSpringSetup.jpg
 
kevin said:
you can get 2"blocks at most autoparts stores. they are used to lower s10trucks.

S-10 have 2.5" springs check yours before you buy them, most medium duty trailers are on 2" springs

 
zukIzzy said:
S-10 have 2.5" springs check yours before you buy them, most medium duty trailers are on 2" springs
the blocks are 2"thick, are you talking about width? I would think that 1/4 on each side would not make a difference?
 
kevin said:
the blocks are 2"thick, are you talking about width? I would think that 1/4 on each side would not make a difference?

Makes a huge difference, there will be interference between the blocks and the ubolts if they are wider then the springs. Things fit pretty tight in there for a reason. You could modify them to work but you could also just cut a  chunk of 1/4" wall 2" tube and drill a hole for the  spring centering bolt and use a pin for the perch centering bolt. If the blocks are too short to be captured by the ubolts you will be stressing the spring with the ubolt and the spring will break. I have seen it many times in the differnet shops I have worked in.

I have seen and used the blocks you are talking about to lift Toyotas and Jeep YJs they do work fine with a 2.5" spring.

wayne
 
I figured if the block is wider than the spring, the spring pin would rest in the block, and the ubolts would be tight against the block, and loop around the rear axle, and up into the bolt plate(which usually are wider by 1/2 or more than the spring) as long as the ubolts are tight, the pressure should not be altered? the pin and the bolts have all the pressure to begin with?
 
kevin said:
I figured if the block is wider than the spring, the spring pin would rest in the block, and the ubolts would be tight against the block, and loop around the rear axle, and up into the bolt plate(which usually are wider by 1/2 or more than the spring) as long as the ubolts are tight, the pressure should not be altered? the pin and the bolts have all the pressure to begin with?

If the bolt plate is 1/2" wider then the spring, it is wrong but if that is the case then the blocks you mention would work, but I wouldn't do it. Plates wider then the spring = bent plates wich =loose ubolts which = broken pins .............. the preasure would not be altered in your senario but if the block is too short front to back and is not captured by the ubolts is does put  stress on the springs trying to bend them negative  while you tighten the bolts.

the Op has not been here is a whiel I wonder if he got it fixed.

 
zukIzzy said:
If the bolt plate is 1/2" wider then the spring, it is wrong but if that is the case then the blocks you mention would work, but I wouldn't do it. Plates wider then the spring = bent plates wich =loose ubolts which = broken pins .............. the preasure would not be altered in your senario but if the block is too short front to back and is not captured by the ubolts is does put  stress on the springs trying to bend them negative  while you tighten the bolts.

the Op has not been here is a whiel I wonder if he got it fixed.
I see what your saying about the tightening of the ubolt's and the blocks to short running with the springs.
 
caissiel said:
Look at the Jayco 5th wheel trailer spring to frame attachement.  I had to raise my trailer by 2".  I had 12 Plates cut by a machine shop and drilled 4 holes 9/16" dia. same size as the eye holes and bolted the plates outsde the existing spring brackets. Then I fasten the spring to a hole 2" lower with proper shimming and bolts and locknuts I purchased from a fastener store, I think they are 9/16" Dia.  I will attach a Pic later on same post.  Because I drilled 2 extra holes I still can raise my RV to suit the higher trucks that the Truck designers alway build that are so high and unpracticle for 5th wheeling.  In addition I had the chance to set this up like the transport trailer axles with a alignment bracket moveble if required.http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll32/caissiel/AdjustableSpringSetup.jpg

Thanks for the pic. Did you go over the top of the frame with that bracket? I can't quite see the top.
 
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