Insufficient Power for Boondocking

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Trailer Trash

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Oct 10, 2023
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Gold Canyon, Arizona
I have a 2022 Keystone Cougar with 400 watt Solar and 12 volt fridge that I’m trying to understand the electrical system on. It has a main switch knob coming off the dual 12 volt factory batteries in the front compartment, a secondary switch in the basement compartment close to a “SmartSolar Charge Controller, and a “Xantrex Freedom X 2000 True Sine Wave Power Inverter - 12vdc - 120vac - 2000“. I don’t think I have any issues when hooked up to shore power however we want to be able to boondock as much as possible without listening to the generator running. My minimum boondocking needs are the 12 volt fridge, a few 12 volt interior lights, the water pump and heater fan. Problem is the digital system shuts everything down at around 12.2 volts which happens around 3 hours into the evening so we’re screwed about 10 PM. Right now I’ve have only the master battery switch on (secondary and inverter is off) for 2 days and the voltage reading is 12.6 at 5 PM after full day of Arizona sunshine.
> Shouldn’t the solar keep the batteries up to 13.7’ish by end of day?
> Why is the system taxing my batteries so much through the day when only the fridge is running?
Can anyone help me understand please?
 
The (2) 12 volt standard batteries that came with it. It is 18 months old. (I have had these issues from the beginning) Camping World claims there is nothing wrong but they also admit they don’t have experience with the new electrical systems and I should call the individual electrical system manufacturers… Not much help.
 
You need to determine the amount of power that you use compared to the size of your batteries and the amount and method of charging.

I suggest that you get a battery monitor.

Some are very inexpensive.
 
Thanks for that (just checked on Amazon). There are many options and as you said some very inexpensive. Is it something that I will check usage at the batteries themselves or run wires into the 5th wheel and mount inside for more convenience?
 
Mount the display inside where you can see it easily.

The monitor will show you how much current is going into or out of the Batteries and will also show you the State of Charge, (SOC), to let you know how much capacity you have left.

This will allow you to either increase battery size , (capacity) increase power going in like more solar or charging or maybe managing the usage. The reefer may be using much of your battery and maybe you can use the propane if you have it.
 
12.2 volts on a system with active loads is about a 70% charge level (it would be 60% if at rest with zero load). Shutting down at that level is extremely conservative. You could easily run down to 30%, which is about 11.7v under light load.

Typical "standard RV 12v batteries" are Group 24 marine/rv deep cycles, roughly 70-80 AH each, so you are only getting to use about 45 AH between charges. If that monitor doesn't have an adjustable threshold, you need to ditch it and get one that is more flexible, of just use a battery amp monitor and keep track yourself.
I would also suggest larger battery capacity, maybe 2x 6v GC2 golf car batteries for about 210-230AH capacity. That should easily carry you through a 1-2 days of camping.
 
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More is better, or at least adds flexibility, but there are always practical limitations of budget and physical space that need to be considered. That means that both typical and peak power consumption needs to be weighed when choosing the solution.
For myself, the only limitation would be space to mount them. If I had the room, I would have a minimum of 400Ah capacity just in case. My old Winnebago had one 200Ah house battery, and it was a beast.
 
What is it about your 12v refrigerator that you don't understand. I have a 12v Unique refrigerator and I have it plugged directly into the batteries. I have 210 Ah of Lithium so more available amps than you will have with your standard travel trailer batteries. I can power my refrigerator for more than 2 days without using my solar. With my 200 watts of solar I can go 3 days and possibly 4.

Even with your two 12 volt batteries you should be able to run your refrigerator for at least a day and have enough power left over to run your LED lights. Not sure what you mean by the heater fan but if you're only talking about the fan on your gas furnace, I can't imagine that would take that much energy. If however you have an electric heater and you plan to power it via the inverter, you don't have enough power.

In good sun with 400 watts of solar you should be able to run your refrigerator and a few LED lights and not draw down your batteries.

What will you be using your inverter for while boon docking? The big draws will be your toaster, coffee maker and microwave.
 
A propane rv furnace draws about 100w when its running. At a 50% duty cycle thats 1.2 kwh a day or a minimun of 3 hours from 400w of solar.
 
Is it possible he is running the 110v inverter causing the fridge to automatically switch to electric? The inverter is a power hog. Just a thought.

(DW says I should not do that too much at such an advanced age.)
 
I have a 2022 keyst Cougar but with a 300 watt solar system similar to yours. Been a PITA with the solar crap. Have an option for another panel on the ground but won’t get it. don’t trust it either. I bought a Honda 3200 suit case style generator that has a 30 amp connector. Tried reading the manual, reading posts on this forum about solar, etc, but still over my head. Even CW doesn’t have answers. Sucks having just an electric refrigerator that depends on the solar panels to keep it running while going down the road. Good luck with your rv. I’ll be getting rid of mine hopefully next year.
 
I have similar set as you do, except with Lithium batteries, which provide many more useable amps than your lead acid batteries. Your lead acid batteries are good down to about 50% state of charge (about 12.0 volts.) Lithium is good down to about 10% state of charge without damage about 11.5 volts). And Lithium will recharge much faster than the lead acid batteries. I also have a 12 volt refer that works really well. But the best thing you can do to conserve battery power while off grid is to turn off your Inverter when you are not in need of 120 AC power. The Inverter draws a significant amount of power just in standby mode.

I made a test with my system while running on solar power with just the refer on and a few lights. By turning off the Inverter when not needed (and over night) my battery power consumption was reduced about 50% by the next morning. Remember your inverter supplies 120 volt power from your battery bank, so if you do not need that power, shut it down.

On a different note, my Converter (which charges the batteries from shore power) was not set appropriately for my Lithium batteries, and therefore not charging them correctly. This is not an issue for you at this point, but may become an issue if you decide to upgrade to Lithium sometime in the future.
 
What make is your Inverter? I have a Xantrex 2000 and added the remote inside the rig. The Xantrex has a power push button on the front, and the remote also has the power button on it.
 

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