Interior Lights Blink when Furnace is trying to start
- Thread starter Superior
- Start date
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
OldWEB
Well-known member
Being a pull trailer, does it have electric brakes? They require a battery for the "break-away" system.
Kirk
Well-known member
If the battery is fully charged, the converter still may not be working and if so it won't recharge the battery and after a while the problems will return.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Note with a Magnetek 6300... Given time it will boil that battery dry.
It does not know when to stop charging.. Highly suggest an upgrade to an Progressibe Dynamics Intellapower 4600 series replaces JUST the converter part (you use the same fuse/breaker boards)
It does not know when to stop charging.. Highly suggest an upgrade to an Progressibe Dynamics Intellapower 4600 series replaces JUST the converter part (you use the same fuse/breaker boards)
Thanks John!, I will look into this.
Kirk
Well-known member
Also keep a close eye on the electrolyte levels in the battery and add distilled water as needed in the mean time.
I
I need to buy a proper RV battery, I only had a 12V car battery that I was testing the furnace with. It allowed me to fire up the furnace but the low batt warning alarm started soon after. I am suspecting the converter is not charging the batt.
OldWEB
Well-known member
What is this and why only now when you had NO battery before??
Kirk
Well-known member
You should make sure that you have a working converter before you buy the battery.
So, I bought this 1998 Mallard 29 last year for my camping property. It did not have a battery with it. I hooked it to shore power and everything worked all last year so I figured I was fine and did not buy one. I went to work on re-doing the interior, needed heat, plugged it into shore power and that started this discussion. I mistakenly assumed I did not need a battery since everything worked without one.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
I mistakenly assumed I did not need a battery
You weren't mistaken. Nominal house loads don't need a battery with a properly functioning converter. It's standard for me to leave my house batteries disconnected when I'm on shore power, everything works. Given the age of your unit it's pretty much a given the converter will not be friendly to any battery, especially one that isn't in active use (i.e. mostly shore power). Replacing the converter with a modern one will obviate the need for a battery which will eliminate ongoing battery attention and replacement expense. Unless, you want to keep the battery to ride through power outages which is OK, but you still want a modern converter so you're not going through batteries unnecessarily.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
You weren't mistaken. Nominal house loads don't need a battery with a properly functioning converter. It's standard for me to leave my house batteries disconnected when I'm on shore power, everything works. Given the age of your unit it's pretty much a given the converter will not be friendly to any battery, especially one that isn't in active use (i.e. mostly shore power). Replacing the converter with a modern one will obviate the need for a battery which will eliminate ongoing battery attention and replacement expense. Unless, you want to keep the battery to ride through power outages which is OK, but you still want a modern converter so you're not going through batteries unnecessarily.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Kirk
Well-known member
Something must have changed and while some converters do require the use of a battery, that is not a universal thing. You need to get a voltage reading from the converter with the negative battery cable lifted to take it out of the circuit. If the converter is working as it used to, that voltage should be around 13.5V but as long as it is above 12V it should make most things work without the battery connected. Measure that voltage where shown in this picture, between the two points of #5.
I will try this this weekend. Thank you.
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Magnetek used to sell something called a "Battery Simulator" I've actually seen one believe it or not. but of course Magnetek is no more (Bought out by Parallex who makes a better prodct)
Thankfully the product is still out there. I found some from a couple Farad for around 25 bucks (A couple in parallel might work) that was at Digi-key Up to one at 375 Farad for $150. Though I question that "ultra cap"'s ratings. they have one for 250 that's rated about the same but in microfarads (micro = 1/1000) A good car audio place will have them... Might work.
Thankfully the product is still out there. I found some from a couple Farad for around 25 bucks (A couple in parallel might work) that was at Digi-key Up to one at 375 Farad for $150. Though I question that "ultra cap"'s ratings. they have one for 250 that's rated about the same but in microfarads (micro = 1/1000) A good car audio place will have them... Might work.
Mark_K5LXP
Well-known member
Putting a supercap on a linear magnetek doesn't fix a 30 year old converter design, reset the clock on 1998 components, or keep the battery from overcharging. Lipstick on a pig.
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
Mark B.
Albuquerque, NM
John From Detroit
Well-known member
Nice unit Converter fuse and breaker in one just like what you have only about 100000% better.
Kirk
Well-known member
Just be careful and follow the instructions and you should do fine. With the "all in one" type you will need to remove and reconnect all of the 120V circuits. If it were me I'd replace the circuit breakers that are not recent at the same time as I don't think it will come with those. It should be a significant improvement from what you have had.
