Jack, Jack stands placement on '74dodge class C ?
- Thread starter dwe
- Start date
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Lou Schneider
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For leveling, close to the corners along the main frame rails. You're leveling the frame and body while keeping the tires on the ground for additional stability.
To change a tire you want to lift the affected wheel. Best place for the jack is under the axle where the spring pack meets the axle. If the jack won't fit on the spring plate then put the jack on the axle as close as possible to the springs. Be sure to block the wheels on the opposite axle so the rig won't roll when you lift the tire clear of the ground.
To change a tire you want to lift the affected wheel. Best place for the jack is under the axle where the spring pack meets the axle. If the jack won't fit on the spring plate then put the jack on the axle as close as possible to the springs. Be sure to block the wheels on the opposite axle so the rig won't roll when you lift the tire clear of the ground.
Unlike trailers motorhomes have heavy springs and shocks. So I don't use my jacks unless we are in the same spot for several days or the site is off level. I bolted 4 heavy duty scissor jacks to the frame of my Class C so they are self storing when raised. The screw to raise/lower facing outwards of course. The best places for me to raise and lower the jacks were just behind the cab doors and two at the very back just in front of the frame extension, about 4' behind the rear wheels on mine. I wouldn't try to use them to change a flat. I have a Horrible Freight 12 ton hydraulic jack to change tires.
I bought an extra jack crank then cut off the crank giving me a 2 foot long extension to raise and lower the jacks using a cordless drill (see below). Saves a lot of work cranking them up and down. Best to carry some 6x6" blocks of wood to put under the jacks. The less a scissor jack is lowered the more stable they are. And always set the emergency brake to help stop lateral movement back and forth.
I bought an extra jack crank then cut off the crank giving me a 2 foot long extension to raise and lower the jacks using a cordless drill (see below). Saves a lot of work cranking them up and down. Best to carry some 6x6" blocks of wood to put under the jacks. The less a scissor jack is lowered the more stable they are. And always set the emergency brake to help stop lateral movement back and forth.
Thank you, sir
Have 2tires drivers side, are both flat (they're shot) need to remove them, to get to shop, so shop can mount replacements. Thanks for your reply, sir
Remove rear wheels , for a tires replacement.
Kirk
Well-known member
I would certainly think so, but the key is the weight of the RV. If the RV's GVWR is 16k, I would be very surprised if there is more than 12k on the rear axle.
Yeah, but be damn careful, there's nothing between the coach and the ground but air and you if you're under there with the tires off. Be sure to chock the front tires and don't try to remove fronts and rears at the same time.
Lou Schneider
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Also, be aware the parking brake is only on the rear axle. Block the front wheels well. I'd only remove one set of wheels at a time, leaving the opposite ones on the ground for added stability. Even if it means making a second trip to the tire shop.
Excalibur
Well-known member
Amen Amen Amen.
